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btw, the one in my avatar is an 87 and went from a stock 2.8 to an 89 2.8, and then to a 93 4.3 vortec out of a blazer… boy is it a fun little toy, yet mild enough on the pump!
btw, the one in my avatar is an 87 and went from a stock 2.8 to an 89 2.8, and then to a 93 4.3 vortec out of a blazer… boy is it a fun little toy, yet mild enough on the pump!
you would be surprised where you can pull 50hp from. and its really not that much when your starting from stock… however fully modified, gaining an extra 50 hp becomes quite a chore. but there is a few things you can do outside of the motor. such as making sure the exuast is non-restrictive, a free flowing catalyct converter or true dual exhuast with an h-pipe or x-pipe to retain backpressure, deleting or changing pulley size on you accerories. you can grab an easy 20-30 hp just from that alone. be sure to adjust your thermostate if your altering pulleys though, a smaller pulley on the waterpump I think will cause it to pump less volume so a cooler thermostate would be a good follow up. these motors should only be in standard cab short box 2wd s10’s and even then its a crap shoot as to if they are satisfactory or not. also body wight can make a small difference. finding a cheap aluminum hood or fendors at a local swap meet or on a certain barter site could be useful. Remember the little things add up, even if they seem extreamly marginal. A spacer for the carb/throttle body may not add much as far as measurable horsepower, but it can alter the torque range quite a bit, making the engine feel more responsive and liven it up a tad. I am well in doubt that with your inital plans of a cam and bore and possibly an aftermarket intake/carb, along side these other “mods” will get you where you want to go. but horsepower is a drug and 50hp is never enough. it may make you happy for a week, or a month, maybe even a year…but eventually it will grow tiresome and you will want 100hp instead!
you would be surprised where you can pull 50hp from. and its really not that much when your starting from stock… however fully modified, gaining an extra 50 hp becomes quite a chore. but there is a few things you can do outside of the motor. such as making sure the exuast is non-restrictive, a free flowing catalyct converter or true dual exhuast with an h-pipe or x-pipe to retain backpressure, deleting or changing pulley size on you accerories. you can grab an easy 20-30 hp just from that alone. be sure to adjust your thermostate if your altering pulleys though, a smaller pulley on the waterpump I think will cause it to pump less volume so a cooler thermostate would be a good follow up. these motors should only be in standard cab short box 2wd s10’s and even then its a crap shoot as to if they are satisfactory or not. also body wight can make a small difference. finding a cheap aluminum hood or fendors at a local swap meet or on a certain barter site could be useful. Remember the little things add up, even if they seem extreamly marginal. A spacer for the carb/throttle body may not add much as far as measurable horsepower, but it can alter the torque range quite a bit, making the engine feel more responsive and liven it up a tad. I am well in doubt that with your inital plans of a cam and bore and possibly an aftermarket intake/carb, along side these other “mods” will get you where you want to go. but horsepower is a drug and 50hp is never enough. it may make you happy for a week, or a month, maybe even a year…but eventually it will grow tiresome and you will want 100hp instead!
depending on design, you may not need to move or alter the starter other then a small modification. google for this, as it has been about 6 years since i have been into the heavy make things work for cheap mode, as i dont race anymore, but theres an acceptable method to “Jump” the contacts on the starter so the starter sylinoid is by-passed, and wire in a late-model ford ignition sylinoid on your firewall or fenderwell. again google or youtube it for more information and wireing diagrams, but the main use of this was in some setups with headers and what not. clearances between exhuast systems and the starter were very small, and leads to alot of heat on the sylinoid causeing a weakend state, aka…. your racing, high rpm = hot exhuast… you spin out to miss a wreck and stall or something of that nature…and your starter acts as if its been trying to crank the motor over for an hour. very weak and most likely wont turn the motor over at all. the cyilinoid gets bypassed by the jumper “wire” (sometimes a small piece of metal is used as its more reliable then a wire) and the on / off action is then handled by the much cooler cylinoid on the fire wall, i say ford’s because its thier basic setup and handy and easily mounted vitually anywhere…and they run for about $6.00 to $12.00 dollars. another thing to look for while your mounting your jumper in place, is a missing heat shield, or construct and add your own out of a small sheet of tin or aluminium. be aware of moving parts and clearances and wires and such though. good luck on the fix!
depending on design, you may not need to move or alter the starter other then a small modification. google for this, as it has been about 6 years since i have been into the heavy make things work for cheap mode, as i dont race anymore, but theres an acceptable method to “Jump” the contacts on the starter so the starter sylinoid is by-passed, and wire in a late-model ford ignition sylinoid on your firewall or fenderwell. again google or youtube it for more information and wireing diagrams, but the main use of this was in some setups with headers and what not. clearances between exhuast systems and the starter were very small, and leads to alot of heat on the sylinoid causeing a weakend state, aka…. your racing, high rpm = hot exhuast… you spin out to miss a wreck and stall or something of that nature…and your starter acts as if its been trying to crank the motor over for an hour. very weak and most likely wont turn the motor over at all. the cyilinoid gets bypassed by the jumper “wire” (sometimes a small piece of metal is used as its more reliable then a wire) and the on / off action is then handled by the much cooler cylinoid on the fire wall, i say ford’s because its thier basic setup and handy and easily mounted vitually anywhere…and they run for about $6.00 to $12.00 dollars. another thing to look for while your mounting your jumper in place, is a missing heat shield, or construct and add your own out of a small sheet of tin or aluminium. be aware of moving parts and clearances and wires and such though. good luck on the fix!
usually u-joints making noise will increase at a multiplied rate, as the driveshafts spin at a higher ratio then the engine…but the timing of the noise is just……odd. thats what is making it confusing.
usually u-joints making noise will increase at a multiplied rate, as the driveshafts spin at a higher ratio then the engine…but the timing of the noise is just……odd. thats what is making it confusing.
just the front and rear joins on the main driveshaft. CV joints are untouched and the rearend is a straitaxle. but the sound is coming from the mid to rear of the vehicle. hard to pinpoint when vehicle is moving.
just the front and rear joins on the main driveshaft. CV joints are untouched and the rearend is a straitaxle. but the sound is coming from the mid to rear of the vehicle. hard to pinpoint when vehicle is moving.
I bought mine from advanced auto parts for 25.00 for pair fairly cheap, but I have not had a problem with them yet. maybe an aftermarket application made of polyurathane bushings would be in order? A lot of v8 parts are compatible with the v6’s of that era as the blocks are in a sense the same. same bolt patterns and such. not 100% familar, but i think the bore and stroke is close the that of a 305 cid gm as well. and aftermarket performance parts for a cheverolet v8 are plentiful.
I bought mine from advanced auto parts for 25.00 for pair fairly cheap, but I have not had a problem with them yet. maybe an aftermarket application made of polyurathane bushings would be in order? A lot of v8 parts are compatible with the v6’s of that era as the blocks are in a sense the same. same bolt patterns and such. not 100% familar, but i think the bore and stroke is close the that of a 305 cid gm as well. and aftermarket performance parts for a cheverolet v8 are plentiful.
I’m going to make an assumption that your mechanic got “lazy” and installed the pinion nut with an impact wrench. these should be torqued to a specfic amount as there is a crush washer behind it, and it alters where the pinion gear is positioned into the differential gear or ring gear. if its left too loose or too tight, the gears don’t mesh well together in that “sweet spot” and can cause a whining noise during acceleration or deacceleration or in severe occuances, full-time. most backyard or do it yourselvers throw the parts in and bolt it up and drive it, there is a process to installing gears where you need to “chalk” the gears, install the differential, rotate it to wear the chalk and get a read on where the gears are meshing, if its wrong you tighten the pinion a bit more, (or remove it and replace the crush washer and start again) and continue to clean, chalk, rotate, check, adjust rinse and repeat until its right. downsides are its a pain in the rear. “<—bad pun" and a time consuming job, but if left alone it could prematurly wear out the gears, or over heat seals and bearings and cause a leaky seal or a failed bearing. worst case senarerio, the bearings wear out, overheat and lockup gernading your rearend and rolling to a stop, or causing more damage to the drivetrain from the internal transmision parts to a broken driveshaft, to broken axels. or it could run for many miles with that whine. could go either way. depends on the extent of the condition/s and driving habits.
i know you said you just had the axle changed and not the gears/differential, and removal of the pinion is not required to change an axle, but the front pinion seal may have been leaking and he may have replaced it while everything was being worked on.
I’m going to make an assumption that your mechanic got “lazy” and installed the pinion nut with an impact wrench. these should be torqued to a specfic amount as there is a crush washer behind it, and it alters where the pinion gear is positioned into the differential gear or ring gear. if its left too loose or too tight, the gears don’t mesh well together in that “sweet spot” and can cause a whining noise during acceleration or deacceleration or in severe occuances, full-time. most backyard or do it yourselvers throw the parts in and bolt it up and drive it, there is a process to installing gears where you need to “chalk” the gears, install the differential, rotate it to wear the chalk and get a read on where the gears are meshing, if its wrong you tighten the pinion a bit more, (or remove it and replace the crush washer and start again) and continue to clean, chalk, rotate, check, adjust rinse and repeat until its right. downsides are its a pain in the rear. “<—bad pun" and a time consuming job, but if left alone it could prematurly wear out the gears, or over heat seals and bearings and cause a leaky seal or a failed bearing. worst case senarerio, the bearings wear out, overheat and lockup gernading your rearend and rolling to a stop, or causing more damage to the drivetrain from the internal transmision parts to a broken driveshaft, to broken axels. or it could run for many miles with that whine. could go either way. depends on the extent of the condition/s and driving habits.
i know you said you just had the axle changed and not the gears/differential, and removal of the pinion is not required to change an axle, but the front pinion seal may have been leaking and he may have replaced it while everything was being worked on.
its possible that its not the motor mounts themselves that are bad. a number of things can cause short life or seemingly immediate failure of the motor mounts. such as a bad transmission mount and allowing ecessive torque to be applied to the motor mounts. think of anything that could cause poor allignment or positioning. weak or failing harmonic balancer, fluids leaking onto the mounts, possibly a mis-positioned chassis mount from the factory, or maybe somebody else molested it. a leak in the exaust even heating the rubber making it extreamly plyable and creating excessive streaching. I bought an 89 2wd astro once and pulled the tbi 4.3 v6 and dropped in a 305 v8 just by reversing the chassis mounts and buying new rubber mounts from advanced auto parts. probable would not have had to switch the mounts…but it set the motor back farther and allowed for extra clearance in the front. just my two cents I suppose.