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changed the starter, swapped in an extra I had laying around the shop from a 350, neat tidbit for ya, not only do 4.3L and 5.? liter v8’s share alot of similaritys, but my 4.3l vortec block has all 3 holes so, technically some B.P.O. starters are useable as well! my buddy just dropped a 355 built into a 80’s camaro with a 5 speed and he ran into the starter vs small bell houseing problem…. i told him to try a mini-starter with adaptable blocking plate, he went with drill and tap on the block to getter done, its in, and hes happy, all that counts. I do still have an intermittant problem and need to still look into the switch/relay, but for the mean time, we picked up a 1999 ford contour with a minor cancer problem underneath for 300 bucks, not bad considering it only has 158k miles on it. cheap beater with a heater with a little TLC : ) hope it does not end up being a money pit!
changed the starter, swapped in an extra I had laying around the shop from a 350, neat tidbit for ya, not only do 4.3L and 5.? liter v8’s share alot of similaritys, but my 4.3l vortec block has all 3 holes so, technically some B.P.O. starters are useable as well! my buddy just dropped a 355 built into a 80’s camaro with a 5 speed and he ran into the starter vs small bell houseing problem…. i told him to try a mini-starter with adaptable blocking plate, he went with drill and tap on the block to getter done, its in, and hes happy, all that counts. I do still have an intermittant problem and need to still look into the switch/relay, but for the mean time, we picked up a 1999 ford contour with a minor cancer problem underneath for 300 bucks, not bad considering it only has 158k miles on it. cheap beater with a heater with a little TLC : ) hope it does not end up being a money pit!
yes, but so much off-timing will usually cause other issues besides powerloss a little bit off and a small amount of power lost on top or bottem range of the rpm band is noticed… the farther off you get either advanced or retarded will produce other problems ranging from backfire’s or missing, as well as overheating or higher then normal engine temps, hard starting, rough idle (can idle smooth if timing is not to far off) poor fuel economy and eventually a engine that just wont stay running or start at all.
yes, but so much off-timing will usually cause other issues besides powerloss a little bit off and a small amount of power lost on top or bottem range of the rpm band is noticed… the farther off you get either advanced or retarded will produce other problems ranging from backfire’s or missing, as well as overheating or higher then normal engine temps, hard starting, rough idle (can idle smooth if timing is not to far off) poor fuel economy and eventually a engine that just wont stay running or start at all.
the starter that was on it when i bought it had a weak cylinoid and i changed it and saved it for parts/backup, the replacement is the one that went out today, and it is totally dead, will not spark when you jump the terminals. alternator is new this spring as i assumed it may be the culprit for the random no starts, fixed the problem for a few months, now it came back with a vengeance. battery is not that old, but needs to be tested as due to the previous alternator failing mid-trip it was run dead a time or two. ignition and wiring is really the last thing in the system…. aside from that, i can’t think of why there was 2 leads to the positive post on the starter, other then an el-cheapo way of wiring up that old remote starter that is no longer existent. will probably be buying a new starter with lifetime limited warranty to be on the safe side. also found a broken sway bar link in the process 🙁 but that’s ok. 191k miles will do that to you. i have over 600 stuck into it since i bought it for general maintenance things so. not getting rid of it over a no start. and i have a spare motor/tranny/transfercase for it so…. she will go a long time yet! i will keep you posted! thanks for your time
the starter that was on it when i bought it had a weak cylinoid and i changed it and saved it for parts/backup, the replacement is the one that went out today, and it is totally dead, will not spark when you jump the terminals. alternator is new this spring as i assumed it may be the culprit for the random no starts, fixed the problem for a few months, now it came back with a vengeance. battery is not that old, but needs to be tested as due to the previous alternator failing mid-trip it was run dead a time or two. ignition and wiring is really the last thing in the system…. aside from that, i can’t think of why there was 2 leads to the positive post on the starter, other then an el-cheapo way of wiring up that old remote starter that is no longer existent. will probably be buying a new starter with lifetime limited warranty to be on the safe side. also found a broken sway bar link in the process 🙁 but that’s ok. 191k miles will do that to you. i have over 600 stuck into it since i bought it for general maintenance things so. not getting rid of it over a no start. and i have a spare motor/tranny/transfercase for it so…. she will go a long time yet! i will keep you posted! thanks for your time
the large nut holding 2 wires, (one is orange with fusible link printed on it, the other is black) was not comfortably tight, yet not “loose” either. fusible links “blow-out” so unless it goes to a relay and thats the “fused” link that cant be it because the power came back on. van is jacked up, starter is out, and did a manual test on the starter with it out. (batter + jumper cables on proper post, + bridged the start post… minimal arc, double checked ground. nothing happens. tested connections and battery, all is well, had another starter with a weak cylinoid on it, works a majority of the time, and tested that as well to double check, that one worked….when it wanted to.. as i expected. i assume the problematic starter is totally dead, not making a connection within the cylinoid at all. BUT… my biggest concern is with the loss of electrical systems while driving down the road and not bumping the starter at all would point towards another culprit adding strain to the system causeing premature failer of the cylinoid. or if it is just coincedental that it will be the 3rd starter on the van in 4 years and I’m stressing over nothing more then a meer expected maintenance and poor luck with cheap replacement parts.
the large nut holding 2 wires, (one is orange with fusible link printed on it, the other is black) was not comfortably tight, yet not “loose” either. fusible links “blow-out” so unless it goes to a relay and thats the “fused” link that cant be it because the power came back on. van is jacked up, starter is out, and did a manual test on the starter with it out. (batter + jumper cables on proper post, + bridged the start post… minimal arc, double checked ground. nothing happens. tested connections and battery, all is well, had another starter with a weak cylinoid on it, works a majority of the time, and tested that as well to double check, that one worked….when it wanted to.. as i expected. i assume the problematic starter is totally dead, not making a connection within the cylinoid at all. BUT… my biggest concern is with the loss of electrical systems while driving down the road and not bumping the starter at all would point towards another culprit adding strain to the system causeing premature failer of the cylinoid. or if it is just coincedental that it will be the 3rd starter on the van in 4 years and I’m stressing over nothing more then a meer expected maintenance and poor luck with cheap replacement parts.
Give that thing a well desereved tune-up first and foremost. if that don’t fix it there is so many things that it could be…especially with high mileage. as was stated, exessive blow-by is a huge loss of power, but you should have gobs of oil on your plugs then and probably ill idle and such so… i have had a couple of the 2.8 and 2.9 engines and they are officially garbage to me. i have yet to see a good one. had one do the same thing in a bronco II, first bought it, lots of power, over the coarse of 40-60k miles it struggeled to do 50-55mph ended up scraping it but later heard that they were known for possibly having poor cam material and cams would wear out, less lift on the valves = less fuel/air in the cylinder and poor performance, but smooth running. i suppose you could check the valve lash and / or somehow check lift without a huge teardown. it probably needs a new set of valve cover gaskets by now anyways. possibly a measureable drop in compression due to less mixture added. not sure about that though because your cylinder volume does not change. somebody would have to back me up on that suggestion.
Give that thing a well desereved tune-up first and foremost. if that don’t fix it there is so many things that it could be…especially with high mileage. as was stated, exessive blow-by is a huge loss of power, but you should have gobs of oil on your plugs then and probably ill idle and such so… i have had a couple of the 2.8 and 2.9 engines and they are officially garbage to me. i have yet to see a good one. had one do the same thing in a bronco II, first bought it, lots of power, over the coarse of 40-60k miles it struggeled to do 50-55mph ended up scraping it but later heard that they were known for possibly having poor cam material and cams would wear out, less lift on the valves = less fuel/air in the cylinder and poor performance, but smooth running. i suppose you could check the valve lash and / or somehow check lift without a huge teardown. it probably needs a new set of valve cover gaskets by now anyways. possibly a measureable drop in compression due to less mixture added. not sure about that though because your cylinder volume does not change. somebody would have to back me up on that suggestion.
that statement is rather byist in my opinion, a majority of late 90’s to early 2000’s body stylings were influenced by “imported” cars. can’t tell me that a 4 door civic looks any different from any other 4 door sedan. I do agree with the loss of class in styling since the late 60’s and even into the very early 70’s. but the 05-07 mustangs are not that far off from their late 60’s bodystyle. with a modern spin of coarse. I was not really looking for a Domestic / foreign war. just opinions of the change in stylings from past to present.
that statement is rather byist in my opinion, a majority of late 90’s to early 2000’s body stylings were influenced by “imported” cars. can’t tell me that a 4 door civic looks any different from any other 4 door sedan. I do agree with the loss of class in styling since the late 60’s and even into the very early 70’s. but the 05-07 mustangs are not that far off from their late 60’s bodystyle. with a modern spin of coarse. I was not really looking for a Domestic / foreign war. just opinions of the change in stylings from past to present.
Nitrous? lol. the only thing I can think of, is something designed for not allowing the transmission to shift into overdrive. much like the overdrive lockout on a late 90’s and newer automatic pickup truck, for towing purposes mostly. not sure why your car would need something of that sort though. look it up in your owners manual, don’t have one? see your dealer, or the internet!
Nitrous? lol. the only thing I can think of, is something designed for not allowing the transmission to shift into overdrive. much like the overdrive lockout on a late 90’s and newer automatic pickup truck, for towing purposes mostly. not sure why your car would need something of that sort though. look it up in your owners manual, don’t have one? see your dealer, or the internet!
while we are on the subject of gasoline substitutes, remember back when gasoline had lead and zinc in it? and they deemed it bad for the earth and removed it… and then everybody started burning exhaust valves, even though they said unleaded was better then leaded and would not hurt an engine….. now when we rebuild late-model engines its customary to install hardened valve seats to protect against the “damage” of unleaded gasoline. with any major change in fuel source, I’m sure something else needs to be altered to keep up with the change. yes its probably ok to drive an old car on unleaded gas with no alterations, but after time extra wear/build up became an issue. Who is to say that after making the big convert to e85, and older car from the 90’s wont need something replaced, or worse, we can’t use cast iron anymore cause it chemically dissolves iron deposits, so now everything must be aluminum…. that is a sarcastic exxageration…..but it gets the point acrossed.