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I keep losing my pocket screwdriver, the magnet keeps sticking itself to things and coming out of my pocket.
I keep losing my pocket screwdriver, the magnet keeps sticking itself to things and coming out of my pocket.
check out http://www.explorerforum.com
check out http://www.explorerforum.com
1. When you are starting out, DO NOT go and finance your life away to the Snap-On man, or Mac, Matco, etc. Start out with Craftsman or Kobalt, something like that. When you get to using your tools hard, and see what their capabilities/failing are, then start to upgrade. That “starter” set of Craftman or whatever will be great in your garage later on for changing your own oil or doing your brothers brakes in the driveway.
2. Learn as much as you can about electrical and electronic/computer diag and systems while you are in school! There is a ton of money to be made there, everything is computer controlled now.
3. Don’t think that you need to go out and buy a Modis or a Verus or whatever the newest scan tool is to do driveability and electronic work. You can do way more than you think doing diag with a wiring diagram, a volt meter, and some critical thinking. Later on when/if you invest in a scan tool you will be way ahead of the curve. Kind of like learning how to navigate using a map and compass, then getting a GPS. A GPS can and will steer you wrong, and so will a scan tool if you follow it blindly.
4. When you get to the point of needing a scan tool, get a good one, make sure it has at least a 2 channel scope, those are really fun and useful, as is a pressure transducer for said scope.
5. Do good quality work, don’t half-ass stuff. Your service writer/foreman/whoever can explain slow to the customer, he can’t explain wrong.
6. Read, read, read. Suscribe to Motor Magazine, Under Car Digest, etc. Read them when its slow and you are sitting around waiting for a car to come in. When that car does come in, read the TSBs and repair procedure in ALLData/Mitchell before you do whatever repair if you haven’t done it before. It only takes a couple minutes, and it can save you hours later trying to figure out why something won’t work, there may be a specific procedure for whatever vehicle. This is especially true of computer related repairs. Nothing will frustrate you, your boss, and the customer more than replacing a component, only to have the same problem or a different one as soon as you start the car to pull it out, because you forgot, or didn’t know, that you need to cycle the key 3 times, press the brake pedal, and turn around twice while rubbing your stomach to make some component talk to the computer and relearn before you start it.
Sorry for the long post
1. When you are starting out, DO NOT go and finance your life away to the Snap-On man, or Mac, Matco, etc. Start out with Craftsman or Kobalt, something like that. When you get to using your tools hard, and see what their capabilities/failing are, then start to upgrade. That “starter” set of Craftman or whatever will be great in your garage later on for changing your own oil or doing your brothers brakes in the driveway.
2. Learn as much as you can about electrical and electronic/computer diag and systems while you are in school! There is a ton of money to be made there, everything is computer controlled now.
3. Don’t think that you need to go out and buy a Modis or a Verus or whatever the newest scan tool is to do driveability and electronic work. You can do way more than you think doing diag with a wiring diagram, a volt meter, and some critical thinking. Later on when/if you invest in a scan tool you will be way ahead of the curve. Kind of like learning how to navigate using a map and compass, then getting a GPS. A GPS can and will steer you wrong, and so will a scan tool if you follow it blindly.
4. When you get to the point of needing a scan tool, get a good one, make sure it has at least a 2 channel scope, those are really fun and useful, as is a pressure transducer for said scope.
5. Do good quality work, don’t half-ass stuff. Your service writer/foreman/whoever can explain slow to the customer, he can’t explain wrong.
6. Read, read, read. Suscribe to Motor Magazine, Under Car Digest, etc. Read them when its slow and you are sitting around waiting for a car to come in. When that car does come in, read the TSBs and repair procedure in ALLData/Mitchell before you do whatever repair if you haven’t done it before. It only takes a couple minutes, and it can save you hours later trying to figure out why something won’t work, there may be a specific procedure for whatever vehicle. This is especially true of computer related repairs. Nothing will frustrate you, your boss, and the customer more than replacing a component, only to have the same problem or a different one as soon as you start the car to pull it out, because you forgot, or didn’t know, that you need to cycle the key 3 times, press the brake pedal, and turn around twice while rubbing your stomach to make some component talk to the computer and relearn before you start it.
Sorry for the long post
[quote=”dseries16″ post=37443]I have used it and it is extremely helpful with the diagnosis of pattern failures from makes you aren’t familiar with. It is also helpfull to have in those cases where you are just completely stumped and dont know what direction to take next in your diagnosis.[/quote]
I completely agree with this. Its great for the guys at independents out there. At a dealership since you are always working on the same car line and systems, you get to a point where if car X comes in with symptom Y, you have seen it 10 times before and know that its probably the fuel pump like it was the other 10 times. But for us independent guys we see every make and model out there, so its hard to get a feel for pattern failures sometimes. Identifix lets you take a shortcut, instead of spending an hour doing diag on the whole system in question to pinpoint something, you can jump right to whatever has a high number of confirmed fixes.
[quote=”dseries16″ post=37443]I have used it and it is extremely helpful with the diagnosis of pattern failures from makes you aren’t familiar with. It is also helpfull to have in those cases where you are just completely stumped and dont know what direction to take next in your diagnosis.[/quote]
I completely agree with this. Its great for the guys at independents out there. At a dealership since you are always working on the same car line and systems, you get to a point where if car X comes in with symptom Y, you have seen it 10 times before and know that its probably the fuel pump like it was the other 10 times. But for us independent guys we see every make and model out there, so its hard to get a feel for pattern failures sometimes. Identifix lets you take a shortcut, instead of spending an hour doing diag on the whole system in question to pinpoint something, you can jump right to whatever has a high number of confirmed fixes.
I have heard good things about the Powerjection setup, as well as the EZ EFI. I like the Powerjection a little better because its a cleaner install, and it has a wideband O2. Also it will adapt itself to your particular setup, so tuning isn’t really an issue. I see a couple deals here and there over on the Pirate4x4 forum for propane setups also. I don’t really know much about that though.
It’ll be a while before I get anything going on the rig. The suspension is still being built/tweaked for the 1 ton axles I just got recently. I’m going to go with a 3 link with panhard and coiloveres up front and a 4 link with coil springs in the rear. Plus the trans in my DD/light wheeling truck just took a crap. So I have been working on pulling the trans from my Explorer this weekend to rebuild it. Its turning into a real PITA, everything has been bolted together and rusting since 1998, lol.
Thanks, guess I’ll have to watch my language on here. I’m too used to the Pirate4x4 boards, anything goes there, lol.
Quoted From 3SheetsDiesel:
I’m going to make some presumptions here, hopefully I’m not too far off the mark. First off, I’m going to presume that you’ve got an automatic transmission. Further, I’m going to presume that it’s cooler is inside of the radiator rather than being a stand-alone unit. When you say milky, I’m going to presume that the transmission fluid looks like Pepto-Bismol. What has happened is that the transmission cooler inside the radiator has gone bad and allowed coolant to leak into the transmission. This will also allow ATF to get into the cooling system.
If that’s the case, you’re going to need a radiator, a transmission filter, transmission pan gasket, coolant and transmission fluid. Replace the radiator, get all the contaminated fluid out of the transmission, replace the transmission filter and pan gasket (unless of course you’ve got an external transmission filter), refill all affected fluids and hope for the best.
X2
Generally speaking, while you are a Tech School student, you get a pretty nice discount from Matco, Snap On, etc. This is the time to buy tools from them! Don’t be silly and sign away your soul to the Snap On man, and I would say also don’t buy their “student kit”, because it has some things I think are retarded to buy from Snap On, like a tape measure.
I would go to a pawn shop and get a decent used Craftsman box (make sure it has roller bearing drawers or you will be hating life), and get some Craftsman/Kobalt/Stanley/whatever tools to start. Once you have been there (school) for a year, and know your way around working on vehicles, and are sure its something you want to do for a career, spend the money and get quality tools from one of the tool truck brands with your fatty student discount.
Nothing wrong with Craftsman or any similar brand at all, and in fact, in my experience the new guys who roll their box into the shop on their first day, and its a big ass Snap On or Macsimizer, etc., the first thing we think is that they don’t know shit.