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[quote=”brandonlamb25″ post=162697]I saw that video and tested clean.[/quote]
If there are no dips then replace the battery. If it is fairly new and still under warranty go to the place of purchase and have them exchange it. It should be free in that caseI think you have a parasitic voltage draw. Check this video out: https://youtu.be/KF1gijj03_0
[quote=”dudereader” post=160449]Hmm, feeling stupid. And if the car isn’t equipped with an EGR valve? Should have consulted my manual before initially responding…. ) Cheers.[/quote]
Well I have an issue similar to yours but not to that extreme. I will attempt some repairs and tell you how the car does after they are done. I know I don’t have an EGR valve in mine (civic vx and hx are the ones that come with it stock) and you should not have one either unless it was purchased in California in which case you should as they require it to pass emissions. I suspect it may be electrical but before I tackle it down, I want to make sure it is not caused by any other known problems the car has. My car wont turn its fans on until it passes the middle of the temperature gauge. I want to replace the sensor and see if that fixes the problem or if it is something else. I noticed that the throttle wont respond sometimes and sometimes it works fine. I have replaced the tps but no change. I know the torque converter is going out for a fact and I’m not sure if it would have to do with throttle response but since it is a potential problem, I am going to take care of that first. My cat is clogged but you mentioned that your car that has been replaced so that would not affect it. I want to ask you if your car ever got a little warmer than usual when it was clogged. I want to see if it is a contributing factor to my issue.
In the case it may be electrical I would check the wiring and see if there is something taking power or adding resistance to the circuit. Look at wiring diagrams and see what you come up with. I’m curios on it. It is also the last thing I can think of since I’m having a similar problem with my throttle response and I have replaced the tps and map sensors. I have replaced fuel filter. Ive done vacuum leak tests and found none except a minor one with the PCV vent on the block itself. I cant think of anything else that would affect idle as well as throttle response. I feel like I might be missing something though.I have the same issues with my 93 civic and honestly I have not resolved the issue myself though I have taken it to a master mechanic and he has told me to replace the torque converter and to replace the catalytic converter because it was getting clogged. The throttle response he said is doing that because the converter was not pressurizing when cold. It had to warm up to normal temperatures. That was also the reason that the transmission shifted the way it did. The catalytic converter was another factor because it was building too much back pressure from it being clogged. While I have not done the repairs yet, I trust this mechanic and what he says. I recommend checking the muffler for it being clogged as the catalytic converter and the resonator have both been changed already. It is possible that because the other two components failed, the metal from them breaking off and all the particles that were not getting cleaned all built up in there. Your air flow could still be restricted.
To gap you want to take the end and just bend it inward slightly to close the gap. Make sure it is still centered and get a gaping tool from whatever parts store. They only cost like $2 dollars. It sounds to me this is probable cause. Another thing to do is look for a cable or hose that may be disconnected. Does it have a check engine light?
[quote=”CordiaMad” post=159623]you said this.
Other days though, it will feel as if there is a gap between me pressing the
Throttle and when it actually responds or detects the throttle as open.
Are you trying to say when you put foot down car don’t respond till few seconds.My answer by what your saying ,I would check or replace spark plugs.
2nd you said
Issue two is that the car shifts rough and sometimes it shifts fine.
My answer when was last time transmission got serviced?Check the oil in transGood luck keep us posted[/quote]
Thank you for the reply. On the first part you quoted me on: the car will act that way throughout the drive until I park and let it sit and sometimes it will not even work properly the next time. I am thinking it may potentially relate to the second part if it is one of my suspected parts.
On the second Quote on what I said: I have been researching transmission issues and its come down to two things according to my sources (because I have tested and ruled out the rest, including servicing the fluid) it is either going to be the torque converter or it is going to be the speed sensor. I have changed the tps, map and shift solenoid. Is there a way to rule on of them out??[quote=”W140S320year1997″ post=159580]Thanks a lot !
I definitely choose the one with thermostat, now figuring out where to be connected the thermostat itself…[/quote]
The thermostat will (or should) already be on your car and will be the thing attached to be block and connected to the lower radiator hose. You can put the fan switch on this housing by threading a hole into it where the switch will go. Remember to have one with clearance for the thermostat. Performance shops could provide you with something or if not go to a machine shop. I’m sure they can make you one if price is not an object….[quote=”supercar14″ post=159518]It honestly depends entirely on the setup you plan to use. If you’re buying a kit they almost always have decently detailed instructions. I will also depend on whether you want the fan to always on or temperature controlled (wiring for the later will be more complicated).
Here’s some instructions I pulled from the fans at Summit to give you an idea
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/summit%20electric%20fans.pdf
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/der-16927.pdf
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/flx-180.pdfHope this helps[/quote]
IF you are going for performance and plan to upgrade (and I mean really) in my opinion would be better to go with the “always on” method. It gives you better cooling especially for turbos (with coolers needing cooling form the air of course). They are easier to set up but again that is if you plan to upgrade your car later.It usually isn’t the windshield unless it has been replaced and poorly done. Better guess would be a sunroof if you have one or check the passenger side door. They are easiest to look at and find if there is a leak but (and I hate to say this) it could be under the dash on the passenger side. Air is flowing through there and it is possible a seal may have gone bad and it started leaking water into the cabin. That one would be hard to look for but you want to start with door or sunroof. they are easiest.
I have had something happen to me but it was intentional. I did it to test those that I trusted as well only to see that I was wrong in doing so. I had taken my car to an alignment at National tire and battery (great place in my honest opinion) and they told me that my inner tie rod was loose and that I should not be driving the car around. I know it is not a hard thing to do but didn’t have the time to do it myself and didn’t want to pay $115 for the tightening of it (yes they are expensive but honest and trust them to do it right) so I went to a local shop that I have been going to for a while. They charged me $65 for the alignment and I thought they would have caught an inner tie rod that was loose. I saw him take a little while with my car and saw him messing with the side that was reported lose for a while so I assumed he tightened it down. He knew me already so he came back and said I have everything done for you. I paid him and left. I had been driving it for two days and noticed it started swerving to the left. I finally had time to check it and the inner tie rod was coming loose! I could move it with my hand! I wont go there again….
To Hockeyclark
Check out videos on scams that have been pulled at places like this. some of them you wont believe and they are all so true…. personal experience of course.Eric the car guy has a review on battery powered ones you can get at harbor freight tools for cheap. I used them myself. For the money they are worth it. You can find coupons to get them down to about 80 or 70. It is mobile and will help with basic applications. Don’t try to use it for things with high torque or rusted in but for making things faster, its great!
I tested the rack and never found my problem. Replaced it with a brand new rack again and now it works fine. Time to figure out what to do with the other racks that I cant return for a refund. Probably open them up to see what I can find and hopefully repair and keep as a spare. thanks for your help guys 🙂
I don’t believe that the manufacturers build cars to have them fail. You are right they just use cheap parts and in some cases build these cars for a certain location like Europe and European cars. They don’t drive more than a few thousand miles a year in comparison to Americans where we drive for tens of thousands of miles. Japan is another place that is small yet somehow they engineer cars to last well in American markets. Probably on their dependence in exports. I also think of the customer service and experience they want to leave on their customers. If a car fails after a time, you are going to be frustrated and say those cars are worthless and not go back again.