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[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=169302][quote=”ElCrazy93″ post=169266]I would assist if I knew what the responsibilities were. I cant say I have good experience with business management or anything like that but I know how to use social media as well as some accounting stuff.[/quote]
Thanks for the offer. Truth be told, I still need to work out exactly what it is I need. However, one of the requirements is that whoever I hire for this job will need to physically be nearby. I don’t think I’ll be able to telecommute this job.
Thanks again.[/quote]
That is a shame I would have loved to help you out. I am a huge fan of everything you do but if you ever need someone to help, and I don’t expect payment for these, things let me know and I will do my best to help. I have respect for the fixing it forward initiative especially and would consider this helping you forward.
Thank you for everything you do Eric.[quote=”Evil-i” post=169332]Blow by is a mechanical internal engine condition where compression gets past the rings into the sump. Changing to a different oil won’t fix it, and you don’t experience it as turbulence in the engine compartment.
The first thing I would check would be to see if the oil filler cap was re-installed in the top of the valve cover during the oil change. If that’s OK, then I’d suspect the electric cooling fan at the radiator was on when you were looking under the hood.[/quote]I was sitting here like have none of these guys thought of it being the radiator fan? To make a point though, the engine probably would not have blow by unless it is run with no oil or no oil changes at all, overheated and warped or anything major like that. The only way engines would have that from normal wear is if it is really high mileage. If you drive the car and it doesn’t feel like you have to feed it a whole gallon of has to get it to advance just 5 mph higher on the highway, you probably do not have blow by. IF you really do have blow by to where it feels like a turbine under the hood, you would have oil all over the place and your car would not get vary far without having major issues.
Actually I’m at a loss. I adjusted them this morning triple checking them and making sure everything was where it was supposed to be. I ran the car and it starts to over heat a little bit. I have it parked at work as when I first started driving it, it didn’t have any knocking or anything like before. Now before I turned it off you could hear the knocking again but it was not as audible as before. All of the valves are to spec. it is .20 for intake and .25 exhaust. the feeler gauges are .207 and .253 mm. They have the same thickness and feel as if you took oil on your fingers and pinched the feeler gauge. It feels smooth so why would it be giving me these issues? Is there another size I should be doing?
[quote=”college man” post=169273]It could be a valve that did not get adjusted enough.[/quote]
yea after further researching the problem here online I came to the conclusion that a nut was not properly tightened most likely. I had my master mechanic I studied under for a year and a half with me when I did it jus to have him check the gap on each valve and he said they were good the way I had them. We turned on the vehicle and it sounded great but after running it a little bit, the noise started happening and has not gone away since. I thought maybe just maybe but highly doubtful that the ecu had not accounted for it being back to factory spec but it just doesn’t make sense to me at this point. thank you for your response 🙂I would assist if I knew what the responsibilities were. I cant say I have good experience with business management or anything like that but I know how to use social media as well as some accounting stuff.
[quote=”ElCrazy93″ post=169263][quote=”joelmeister” post=169251]Thanks for both suggestions, going to take the graphite route first as I do have a transponder key. Had questions about WD40 causing more problems than solving. Thanks again![/quote] it will cause problems because it is a corrosive solution if if is left with metals for too long. because the tumblers are so precise in the space between them and the key as well as the walls of which they sit in that if any rust starts building up it will seize it in place. wd40 will work but only if you take the tumblers out and clean them right after leaving you with the same problem you started with in the long run. Graphite will not seize them and will actually make it easier for them to slide for a long time. You should be able to tell when they are lubricated as taking the key in and out will do the trick and the key will be easier to slide in and out. The way you do it is you pour the graphite on the key and then you stick in in the keyhole and take it in and out a couple of times adding it onto the key after a few times until it is near seamless going in and out. you can pour some directly to the keyhole as well if you would like. Once the key is able to turn, add some to the side of the key while it is in there and blow it in with the slightest bit of air (glasses recommended if you will be blowing in with your mouth so it wont go in your eye) to get more of the graphite in there to lubricate all components[/quote] imagine tumblers like pistons in cars where the rings are non existent and the size of the piston is the same as what the rings would be. It is a really tight fit just to give you an idea
[quote=”joelmeister” post=169251]Thanks for both suggestions, going to take the graphite route first as I do have a transponder key. Had questions about WD40 causing more problems than solving. Thanks again![/quote] it will cause problems because it is a corrosive solution if if is left with metals for too long. because the tumblers are so precise in the space between them and the key as well as the walls of which they sit in that if any rust starts building up it will seize it in place. wd40 will work but only if you take the tumblers out and clean them right after leaving you with the same problem you started with in the long run. Graphite will not seize them and will actually make it easier for them to slide for a long time. You should be able to tell when they are lubricated as taking the key in and out will do the trick and the key will be easier to slide in and out. The way you do it is you pour the graphite on the key and then you stick in in the keyhole and take it in and out a couple of times adding it onto the key after a few times until it is near seamless going in and out. you can pour some directly to the keyhole as well if you would like. Once the key is able to turn, add some to the side of the key while it is in there and blow it in with the slightest bit of air (glasses recommended if you will be blowing in with your mouth so it wont go in your eye) to get more of the graphite in there to lubricate all components
WARNING: read the whole text I am not responsible for any damages or issues caused by these possible fixes. This is meant to just inform you of possible fixes to the issue. I have a trick but that depends if you want to fix it or just get the car running. You can take off the covers to the steering column and then pop off the tumblers that hold your key combination in them. This will make sure that your key will turn but in doing so, any key or screwdriver or anything really can turn the ignition. Keep in mind if you have a transponder key, the car still will not start. Another thing that you may want to do before the tumbler fix is go to the hardware store and get some graphite to lubricate the key hole. Do not use dw 40 or other products that are meant to unseized bolts or lubricate hinges or things like that. Graphite is specific for keys and the only thing safe on tumblers. Hope this helped.
Man you been working! Looking good I like that you kept things updated! I wish I would have done some pictures of the two vehicles I have been working on. I’m near done with them so no point now. Keep up the good work 🙂
[quote=”zefus411″ post=168909]2 trouble codes 02 sensor and catalytic converter popped up prior to the car having issues don’t have access to an obd reader to check if they are still there[/quote]
If the catalytic converter is clogged to the point where no air can pass through it, this would be the thing that is causing your car to stall. Another tip to help you when you do have your car running to help keep it in good running order is this video: https://youtu.be/5b3rrA6e7O4 It is about cleaning the egr ports on those cars. It is possible yours may not have them but it is something that contributes to catalytic converters getting clogged up. Also check the timing. rich conditions will cause catalytic issues as well as vaccum leaks. Don’t just fix the problem, make sure it doesn’t happen again.[quote=”zefus411″ post=168899]I’m having issues keeping my 03 civic running. I’ve replaced the camshaft position, crankshaft position, fuel pump, spark plugs. My car will start runs for about 2 minutes then stalls out, sounds like it has a small miss. Needing help on figuring out what it is.[/quote]
Have you seen if it has any trouble codes? That will usually tell you what is causing things like this. I would start there. If not check timing or the coil packs which normally don’t go out but is a possibility.[quote=”college man” post=167586][quote=”ElCrazy93″ post=167552]When you replace a gasket, you clean the mating surfaces and remove anything that would otherwise be a problem down the line. One question I have though is when you go to put the bolts in and you have torqued them to the correct specs and torqued them in the correct sequence, is it ok for the gasket to look more spread out in some places and recessed in others?[/quote]
Usually things look pretty uniform. some gaskets will compress out some.
What job are we doing?[/quote]
Sorry for the late response as I had to go on a family emergency with my backup vehicle. I did the replacement of the oil pan gasket on a 93 Honda civic. I left it as it was and sure enough the oil seeps from the locations I felt looked funky Now I was reading in many forums people used Honda bond for the gasket to sit properly but I am curious if I need it on there since the gasket it pre molded. Could I get away with just placing them on the 4 corners where the crankshaft goes over it like you would the valve cover gasket? I know this one I have to replace since it has Honda bond all over it and has leaked since I put it onI would love to see more videos like those on here! I have always wanted to know how to modify cars and get them to be truly mine. There are videos out there but none of them are really as extensive with information as yours are and I would find that really helpful. The channel that has gotten close to helping with upgrades is mighty car mods but even their videos are not all that helpful. That is one benefit but also, its something you like. I understand that you try to do things for the community here and I can appreciate that but ultimately it you are not happy with what you are doing, do what does you know? Go for it Eric 🙂
[quote=”Nodak81″ post=166603]The other guys already answered but I can also confirm it’s normal. I have a Kia Rio automatic and my cousin has the same but with a manual, my automatic gets ~2500rpm at 70 and his manual runs ~3500rpm at 70.[/quote]
Yea I figured as much after looking a lot of different cars and comparing them to their automatic versions. Now the only question is how does a manual save more gas than automatics when the rpms go so high? Could it be that it requires less torque and less requirements to burn gas? Or am I wrong? Any logic on this would be apreciated