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[quote=”Buzzard95″ post=180727]There is a pick & pull about 50 miles away with several 97 to 00 Civics on the lot. Does anyone know if the knock sensor connector is the same for all models of 96 to 00 Civics (mine is a EX)[/quote]
Yes. The only thing different between models will be body parts (between coupe, sedan, and hatch) and vtec solenoids. Everything else is pretty much the same so connectors will be the same. Just remember to not get whole harnesses unless you are sure yours has the exact same components in that harness otherwise it would have been for nothing.[quote=”jonsey1886″ post=180720]Pictures if possible….If all else fails I would say just do an early oil change to get the filter out of the way.[/quote]
Car got hit while parked so now the front end needs work >:/ but anyways the filter isn’t really the issue it is the harness, pcv valve, and other junk that got put in the way. No biggie ill figure it out. On a side note, don’t use Geico. The legal coverage here in Texas insures damages to other vehicles where you were at fault. Both me and the person who crashed into my car have Geico and they closed the case because I did not have coverage for my vehicle damage. I was not at fault, the other driver was in which case their insurance would have to cover it and they have the same coverage as me. I am trying to fight it now but I do not think I will have them as my insurance anymore….To add to college man’s response, Have your tire fixed of whatever is causing it to leak. Once that is done, If the issue is not fixed, try an see if maybe it is your power steering fluid and if it is causing binding in your rack and pinion. I have had a similar issue before and it turned out to be the fluid. After I changed it, my car ran fine but there may be a different issue with yours
I would say look for vacuum leaks and after. As Eric mentioned you want to start with the cheapest fixes and move up from there.
[quote=”dtidman” post=180650]I’m sure if we all work on this from our experiences, we could get quite a list…
If you are trying to diagnose a suspension clunk or other sound, on your test drive you will be surrounded by guys on Harleys with straight pipes.
The perfect road to test suspension on will be repaved when you need it most
If you are trying to diagnose something by smell, you will end up behind a car that is running so rich you are surprised fire is not shooting out the tailpipe.
The day after you have spent 20 hours and bought an Autel to diagnose a code, ETCG, ScannerDanner, Eric O, ChrisFix, Humble Mechanic, motoyam82, Briansmobile1 and Scotty Kilmer all post videos on how to diagnose the exact problem you had in 10 minutes with a test light and a spray bottle filled with water.
The part you absolutely need on Sunday afternoon will only be available at one store and be the only one left, and that part will be in a tattered box and looks like it’s been in and out of 10 other vehicles (and it’s probably a Dorman).
The minute you think to yourself “Cool, I fixed it,” the CEL comes back on.
It takes only 50% of the time to do the repair a second time.
When you ask your spouse how long their car has been making that sound, they tell you they just turned up the radio so they didn’t hear it.
The bolt you just broke is OEM only and will take a week to get.
Any more?[/quote]
You seemed to have forgotten my favorite: you order a part no even the dealer carries from over seas that takes a month to arrive and when you receive it, it does not work or fit.Good morning,
Yes there is an alternative I have used on my car before for the temperature sensor on my 93 civic before. Go to the junk yard to a harness that is in tact and cut the sensor connector off (with enough wire sticking out of it for you to peel and mend later) and it should cost you a dollar if anything. Just peel back the wire and mend them together. I suggest soldiering it together then shrink wrapping it but if soldiering isn’t an option, shrink wrap should do just fine after twisting them together.
[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=175615]O2 Sensors should read about zero volts without the engine running. A proper test would be to take the sensor out and use a propane torch to heat it. It should then read between 0 and > .9 volts and decay quickly when the heat is removed. If it is a three wire sensor the shell is the return if it is a four wire sensor the two same colored wires (usually white) are the heater and the other two are the signal wires. The resistance of the heater circuit should be a couple of ohms.[/quote]
That’s great I’ll give them a shot. My second sensor has 4 but what about the first one? It has 6 wires[quote=”Iznogood” post=175604][quote=”ElCrazy93″ post=175557][quote=”Iznogood” post=175521]Actually, sensor one is supposed to jump up and down and sensor two needs to stay at around .45 volts for your car to hit lambda 1.
You have described it as the other way around. Which is it ? Your mistake or is the car actually doing what you described ?[/quote]
Sensor one is constant and sensor 2 fluctuates. It fluctuates when the engine is off. Sensor one fluctuates but tends to keep at around .5 with engine on but stays at 0 with engine off.[/quote]I would really like to see a photo of your readings. They are completely reverse of what they should be. Sensor one is the one that is supposed to fluctuate between “I´m rich, I´m lean,I´m rich, I´m lean” and sensor two is suuposed to check, that sensor one is doing its job and that the cat is working. It should therefore stay at a fairly constant .45 Volts with only small fluctuations. Sensor one on the other hand, should read between .1 V and .9 volts and switch rapidly. That is at least 1-2 times per second.[/quote]
I’ll have to borrow a scanner again but yes. It was bank 1 sensor 2. I discovered a vacuum leak on it with my friend yesterday. I’ll fix that, check the readings again and give updates[quote=”Iznogood” post=175521]Actually, sensor one is supposed to jump up and down and sensor two needs to stay at around .45 volts for your car to hit lambda 1.
You have described it as the other way around. Which is it ? Your mistake or is the car actually doing what you described ?[/quote]
Sensor one is constant and sensor 2 fluctuates. It fluctuates when the engine is off. Sensor one fluctuates but tends to keep at around .5 with engine on but stays at 0 with engine off.[quote=”stankiewicz43″ post=173028]2002 Mitsubishi Galant DE Air Cooling. At start-up and driving AC works great for 5 minutes, then shut s off. May turn back on later. If so, it turns back off a few minutes later.[/quote] Sounds like an expansion valve or orifice tube that is not working correctly. Check that first.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=172896]Lately it seems that I’ve been getting more negativity in the comments than usual. Rather than taking the time to type out a string of responses, I decided to make this video as my response. I hope those that feel I’ve ‘sold out’ get a better perspective on where I’m coming from, and those that have always supported me are entertained by the video.
I’m sure I’ll see more than my fair share of comments on this one. Should be interesting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtWCy0ixzUE%5B/quote%5D
Truth of it is Eric, there are some people out there that thrive off the anger you channel at them through the internet. I have a friend that is like that and it drives me nuts sometimes with the things he likes to put his two cents into. I asked him one time why he does it and he says “because it is funny how much a person can get angry over a text on a screen. It is funny for me to read the responses because in the end, that is all it is. Very intelligent combacks at times that I keep for later use. It’s just fun”. A good way to deal with it from personal experience is to agree with them. Make it boring for them to look back to and read. I can understand your frustration with it don’t get me wrong. If it is a valid point I understand but when it isn’t well it is hard to keep cool. Keep your head up man your videos are always some of the best ones out there regardless of what others say.[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=172432]In a way the #FairmontProject is designed to walk someone through the steps of how to ‘properly’ modify a vehicle as well as educate on all the different automotive systems and how they operate.[/quote]
Really appreciate this by the way. I have not seen even one video out there so far that will go in detail about car mods. Oliver may be the one to teach a thing or two hopefullyHonestly, I would get my civics and mod them both to where they are fast but still fun to drive. I plan to mod them both with nothing stock left in them except the cosmetics and body of course. I want them both to be sleepers but I do not want them to be drag cars by any means no. I do not like a car where it is all about the ponies and how fast it can get to 100. I like acceleration but I want it to be a sleeper so yes have power steering, ac, good sound system, and still be able to take on a couple of the more common race cars out there that have no mods in them. Make it a fun car to drive. One where you can be at the light, take on the guy with a big ego because he just bought a 30000 dollar mustang that pulls 400 horses and wants to show it off but you take your little slow civic and show him it is not about what car you drive but how you personalize it and just to make it more embarrassing for him, ill blast “in the summertime” by Mungo Jerry and just drive off laughing it off. It is not about the speed it is about the fun. people out there can have a car with 10,000 horses in it and say they are the fastest to where no one would dare race them but hey if it was a car you had to go and put 20 seat belts on and then go manually start it by jumping it because a battery adds weight and it would slow him down by just a split of a second but he needs that because ponies and then you have to hunch down to be able to sit in there because aerodynamics. it just would not be fun for me.
[quote=”Rob781″ post=171896]have you check the relay and seen if it was really bad also you might want to check with an ohm metter and see if the postive on the relay is shorted to grnd….just disconnect the battory when you do it… test both sides of the coil’s positive aka inputs of the coils
could of just been the relay sorted it self out and is broken inside[/quote]
I kicked myself when I realized all I had to do was reset the thing. Pull the yellow cable at the far right of the fuse box under the driver side. short it out and turn the key to on position. it will come off. disconnect then reconnect the short. It will blink twice to confirm reset. Done. lol thank you for your advice though. Definitely want to check fuses and relays next.If you have to do it, do it but if you don’t, do it when you are in the mood. If you don’t feel motivated, you won’t be clear headed, you will be less motivated to do it right (miss a bolt 8 steps ago but it’s not too essential so you don’t back track type thing) keep in mind what needs to be done for the job. Replace the brakes but not in the mood but it’s not hard. Need to replace the clutch but not in the mood, wait if you can.