[Chris]

[quote=”college man” post=184471][quote=”ElCrazy93″ post=184450][quote=”patrick anderson” post=184439]I have a 99 suburban driving me crazy..i have replaced the plugs, wires, rotors, distributor cap and spider injectors and yet
still getting misfires. My mechanic has said that the burb is throwing O2 codes and bad converter errors.

Several questions….can bad O2 sensors cause misfires
can bad convertors cause misfires
Can a combination of the 2 cause misfires

or
Do I have a bad ignition coil which hasn’t been replaced yet.

Also what is a good scan tool to purchase for an above average do it yourselfer.

Thanks in Advance for your help….Tired of incompetent mechanics.[/quote]
O2 sensor or catalytic converter will not cause misfire but a clogged catalytic converter will cause your engine to get hot. Check the O2 sensor first make sure it is not malfunctioning. If it isn’t then look at the catalytic converter being changed. As for the misfire, I would suggest that the sparks are firing in the correct order. Look at the manual and it should tell you.[/quote]

Guess again on a bad o2 not causing a misfire.[/quote]
On a 99 suburban? I thought they were strictly measurement tools in this model. It was my understanding, but please correct me if I am wrong, that if it lost something like that, it would throw the car into its “safe mode”. I don’t know the correct term for it. I know cars like a 97 civic HX or something similar they are very important. If they do cause misfires on this though then yes I would say look at those as well as firing order to make sure either one is working correctly. You did mention that you changed the injectors though. Usually when attempting to do upgrades like that, you want to get the computer re programmed unless they are OE spec. That may be part of the issue you are having. I would do research on them see what the manufacture recommends.

[Chris]

[quote=”jlake” post=184443]:whistle: At a standstill transmission wants to shift gears.When beginning to move the spedometer jumps 360 degrees. I ‘ve also had the transmission slip
trying to find a gear to jump to.No fun wats to do?[/quote]
I have heard a lot of bad things with caravan transmissions especially the early 2000’s models. This sounds like a speed sensor malfunction. Do you have a code scanner? After that other issues can be tackled

[Chris]

[quote=”cpaul” post=184442]Anyone at there, do I need to have my 1999 4×4 pathfinder alignment done after replacing the driver side cv axle?

Cheers,
Paul[/quote]
For good measure I would but it isn’t required as your tie rods were not messed with as far as their alignment goes. Now if you replaced your tie rods or moved the outer away from the inner or messed with the alignment screw then yes. Just depends. If you feel the car trying to move to one side while driving without vibrations (vibrations means a bad tire rotation) then yes you need it.

[Chris]

[quote=”patrick anderson” post=184439]I have a 99 suburban driving me crazy..i have replaced the plugs, wires, rotors, distributor cap and spider injectors and yet
still getting misfires. My mechanic has said that the burb is throwing O2 codes and bad converter errors.

Several questions….can bad O2 sensors cause misfires
can bad convertors cause misfires
Can a combination of the 2 cause misfires

or
Do I have a bad ignition coil which hasn’t been replaced yet.

Also what is a good scan tool to purchase for an above average do it yourselfer.

Thanks in Advance for your help….Tired of incompetent mechanics.[/quote]
O2 sensor or catalytic converter will not cause misfire but a clogged catalytic converter will cause your engine to get hot. Check the O2 sensor first make sure it is not malfunctioning. If it isn’t then look at the catalytic converter being changed. As for the misfire, I would suggest that the sparks are firing in the correct order. Look at the manual and it should tell you.

[Chris]

[quote=”AcuraTech” post=184269]Well I wish you luck on how long the transmission lasts. I have seen some of the 4 speeds limp a long with harsh shifting for quite a while too. I hope it does last a while for you. :/

If you got the time and motivation, you can’t really hurt anything by removing the solenoids and checking them, but again, it likely won’t help. Be mindful of disturbing the gaskets and o-rings on such and old vehicle too if you’re not replacing them.

Ah, we’re talking about 2 different cables. I thought you were talking about the shift cable, not the throttle cable. I don’t think it will fix your transmission shifting concern, but if you do want to adjust it, here’s what you do:

There is no adjustment on the accelerator pedal on the inside of the car, it’s all done under the hood. When you look at the throttle body, you’ll see two cable attachment points. The metal one is for the accelerator pedal, the black plastic one is for the cruise control cable. Make sure those are not mixed up. The black plastic cable mount should go the cable that goes along the air cleaner housing, over the radiator and into the cruise control actuator above the right side engine mount. The metal mount should have the cable that goes through the firewall(leads to accelerator pedal) on it.

There is mixed opinions on how much slack you want in a cable. Me personally, I like it to where you can move the cable by hand about 1/8″ before the cable is taught. You don’t want the throttle being pulled open slightly all the time.

Here’s a good guide. It’s a little different that your throttle body, but the adjustment mechanism is the same:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENkPrGUmUl4%5B/quote%5D
Thank you for all your help. I was talking about the shift cable. I found a guide on it’s adjustment and now the car shifts perfectly and feels like new again. There is a very very slight hesitation but you cant feel it unless you pay attention to it. I had to fill – drain the transmission twice already and while it shifts great now, I need one more as the liquid still comes out brown. I am confident this transmission will last a long time and would not have been able to do it without your help. A good solution to a warn tranny is dw-1 automatic transmission from the dealer. I think that is what helped it the most.

[Chris]

[quote=”AcuraTech” post=184191]Ah. The 4 speeds are better, but definitely not flawless, they have issues. It’s still a common failure. There was even a safety recall on it. Your description of the way your transmission behaves is textbook transmission deterioration. You’re likely going to have to replace it with a remanufactured unit or take it to a transmission shop for a rebuild.

If you didn’t put Honda transmission fluid in there (Z1 or DW-1), you’re doing yourself a disservice. You can attempt to remove solenoids and clean them but it likely will not have an effect.

As for your code, catalyst system insufficient codes are usually catalyst failures, not o2 sensors. 🙁 That’s not related to your shifting concern though.

When you drive and you feel like the engine revs but the car doesn’t go, that’s usually due to clutch slippage. That “sledge hammer” sensation is the transmission banging into gear.

As for the adjustments to the shift cable, the only adjustment is the one where the cable connects to the shifter in the car. There is a slot in the cable end where the shift lever stud goes into that is fastened with at 14mm nut. You can loosen that nut and move the shifter to a different position and then tighten the nut. I wouldn’t recommend that though, I doubt that’s loose or out of adjustment. On the transmission side, it connects with a pivot pin and there is a hinge mechanism that bolts to the shift shaft. It only goes on one way, there is no adjustment on that end.

Also:
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/common-problems-pattern-failures/50011-1999-03-acura-tl-s-and-cl-s-pattern-failurers%5B/quote%5D

Well I understand that the transmission has wear I am not denying that. What I want to do is stop it from going out. The transmission does not slip at all just shifts hard. I can’t guarantee that it has never had any other transmission fluid put in there but I know in the time I have been the owner, I have only used Honda fluid. I have had the car just a few weeks but I know it has not gotten to that point where it needs a rebuild yet.

As for the solenoid, I am only cleaning it to see if it has any effect. I cleaned the other solenoids that were on the top of the transmission and they did not need it. The filters were perfect.

The O2 was just the CEL and it was put there to tell you that it does not have codes for a faulty piece of the transmission.

As for the adjustment of the cable: you are saying there is no adjustment on the throttle body part of it? The previous owner messed with it and I want to get it back to factory settings. How do I find out that information. Thank you for your help

Chris

[Chris]

[quote=”jonnycilia” post=184168]Hi, i have a 1989 1.3 carbed lada samara and im turning it i to a sleeper, i was tought that i can install dual carbs on it, it has solex carb from factory, i want to install two dellorto carbs on a modified manifold that is ready to buy. What gai s in hp am i supposed to expect from this ? And am i supposed to install two accelerator cables or what ? Because of the dual carbs ? Also there is a turbo kit available which gives it 50% more power, which is more worth it ?[/quote]

The carburetors regulate fuel/air mixtures so really it is how well they are tuned. As for the turbo, they generalize the percentage so the only way to tell is to take it to a performance shop and have them give you the numbers and they will have to tune whatever carburetors you are using to maximize its performance. They will also be able to fine tune the carburetors for you if you do not know how to do it. As for installation, if you do not know how to install them properly, I would have the performance shop do that for you as well.

[Chris]

[quote=”airidas338″ post=184169]Vehicle:
VW Golf mk4 (1998) Diesel 2.0l 85KW Manual

Problem:
Car can’t go faster then ~110kph (~68mph). It used to be a lot faster. What problem that could indicate?[/quote]

Can you give us more specifics? Do you have check engine light? What are the codes? Does your transmission feel like it is slipping? When you press the gas does the RPM go up but the car does not accelerate? I look forward to your reply

Chris

[Chris]

[quote=”jgindi” post=184177]I just swapped the motor and trans in my girlfriend’s CRV and the new motor runs fine, but the new transmission is worse than the one I pulled out. I pulled out the old one because it was slipping when it upshifted. Here are the problems with the new one:
-slipping when upshifting (rpms momentarily jump by about 500 before settling back down into higher gear’s rpm range)
-late upshifting (shifts from 1st to 2nd at around 4k rpm)
-very rough downshift into 1st when coming to a stop
-D and 1 indicators don’t light up on dash.
-CEL with P 1706 code
-and I think overdrive isn’t engaging. It’s at 4k rpm at 80mph and I couldn’t get it to upshift. I tried turning O/D off to check if it was engaged or not and the rpm’s didn’t change, so I’m assuming O/D was never engaged.

I still need to check and clean the solenoids and flush it with Honda ATF. (currently using Valvoline synthetic for Imports) But I would like to know if these symptoms sound easily reparable before I spend a bunch more money on ATF for an iffy transmission.

Thank you![/quote]

The code you have is for the range transmission switch. That would explain why it wont indicate when you are in 1st or drive. It could also explain why your overdrive is not engaging though I do not believe it would be the issue. Replace the switch and see what this does for you. If it is an earlier model, you might be able to use a junk yard part or even better pull it off of your old transmission and put it in this one. Also make sure your shift cable is adjusted properly (again if you have an earlier model). You want to use Honda specific transmission fluid as these transmissions are very particular with what is put in them. Cleaning the solenoid filters is a great idea and recommend doing it as well. Because these transmissions are so particular, make sure you keep up with the maintenance schedule for this transmission. Good luck

Chris

[Chris]

[quote=”89foxbody” post=184178]I have a friend with an 04 pt cruiser gt turbo that has a manual trans, and says he was driving in 2nd gear when i felt like it popped out of gear. So he put it into 3rd and heard no noise, but now when he puts it into 2nd its another neutral. All other gears work with no noise and 2nd will even grind if you dont use the clutch but once you get it in the car just revs and dosnt go anywhere.
Does anyone know what the problem could be?[/quote]

Geez well a manual transmission is very mechanical to where everything is gears inside the gearbox with only some fluid in there to lubricate the gears. If it does not engage the second gear, I can only guess that the gear itself is out of alignment. From what you tell me it sounds very likely and “drift the gears” (if he does it) would probably push it out of alignment when he was trying to throw it into second. Only way to tell for sure is to open the transmission and fixing the issue. Good luck

[Chris]

[quote=”AcuraTech” post=184023]The 5 speed transmissions are junk for that model. One of the worst periods for Honda and Acura transmissions was the late 90s and early 2000s. I’ve lost count of how many transmissions I’ve replaced on TLs about that age. Any DTCs? p0730 and p0741 are almost certain death for your transmission. Was the fluid very dark when you drained it? Did the fluid smell burnt?

Throttle position is definitely a factor when it comes to transmission shift points. If the PCM sees a bad input from a throttle position sensor (ex: wide open throttle when it’s not wide open), it can cause all kinds of shifting issues. But, if you have no codes, you likely have no reason to suspect a bad throttle input.

Do you have a code for range switch? Does the shifter feel like it has a problem shifting? What makes you think it’s a cable problem?

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but it does sound like an internal transmission failure. I’ve been working at an Acura dealer for 10 years and this is all to common for that particular car unfortunately.[/quote]

Thank you for your reply. You seem very well informed about the car but this is not a 5 speed transmission it is a 4 speed. The 99 TL is the only one that has a 4 speed. At 300,000 plus miles you would expect some wear.

The Fluid did come out a little dark but it was still a shade of brown that isn’t too bad. I am going to drain it again and put dw-1 transmission fluid in there. Doing the process 3 times in the course of three weeks letting the new fluid mix with the old then draining see if this does something for it. I was thinking a shift solenoid filter may be dirty. I am going to try and clean those as well. Too expensive for me to just go out and replace the whole gasket.

I do not have any check engine codes except for catalytic converter system inefficient. I know that is a bad O2 sensor though as the code comes back on immediately after I clear the code. The car shifts really hard when it is cold but shifts almost perfectly when it has warmed up. It is especially hard when going into reverse when you first start the car. It almost feels like someone took a sledge hammer and hit the car. Again this all goes away when the car gets to operating temperature and shifts to where you can only barely feel it. It does feel like it shifts a little late though. You can feel it is not shifting at the right power ranges for sure.

Can you tell me how to adjust the cable though so I can at least for sure rule it out? I thought maybe tightening it to where it has no slack on the cable but not pulling on the black part of the throttle it is attached to was correct but I want to make sure. Thanks again

Chris

[Chris]

[quote=”college man” post=183895]Does it shift hard from 1-2 gear? was the fluid used Honda fluid?[/quote]
The car shifts hard in all gears and when going in reverse and drive, it jumps a bit which is why I think it might be the cable instead of the gear packs themselves. Question though, would a throttle position sensor affect the shifting? I think mine is failing from time to time. Thanks for your help

[Chris]

[quote=”onyx” post=183858][quote=”ElCrazy93″ post=183854]Hello,

I did the same test to another administrator on here and I had no issues with any of the buttons on the site. Again I did not have much time to go through everything but I had no issues with the majority of the content at all.

Chris[/quote]

What brows are you using? also Hanneman what browser are you using too?

Thanks for the help![/quote]
Internet explorer 11

[Chris]

Hello,

I did the same test to another administrator on here and I had no issues with any of the buttons on the site. Again I did not have much time to go through everything but I had no issues with the majority of the content at all.

Chris

[Chris]

Good afternoon,

I clicked the link and pressed a good number of the buttons on the page with no issues. I did not press all of them as I do not have much time to be thorough but everything on the computer I am currently using has everything outdated.

Chris

[Author]

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