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[quote=”relative4″ post=194174][quote=”ElCrazy93″ post=194167][quote=”relative4″ post=194163]Need clarification. What are your trims at idle, 2K,and 4K? What are your misfire counts?[/quote]
Fuel trim at idle for stft sits right at -4 average. On load of 2500 it sits at -14 average. I haven’t done 4000[/quote]I would expect a leaky injector to show worse trims at idle than at 2500. You would also find the fuel system depressurizes when you turn off the car.
So, I would check the following, in this order:
Dirty air filter
Bad MAF sensor
Bad upper O2 sensor
FPR running excessive pressure at low vacuum[/quote]
Excellent brother thank you for that info. The only thing I didn’t rule out was the upper 02 sensor. It would make a lot of sense. I bought it new not long ago so I thought it would be ok but seeing as I bought it aftermarket and cheap, it might not be reading properly. That’s irritating. I spent 150 on the aftermarket but the oem is 350. I guess I need to bite the bullet…Removing the battery does not erase the memory of the ecm only codes. Try hitting the starter with something to see if you can get it unstuck. If it doesn’t work, removing it and testing it would be my recommendation. Thing to remember when you are having electronic component issues is to check your fuses and relays before you jump into the mechanical components. You could have a blown fuse
That gives us very little room to work with as it doesn’t give us any information. The starter on these cars is a pattern failure though. It is possible it is sticking. If you go to replace it, don’t listen to the YouTube videos that say you need to take apart the suspension. All you need to do is turn the wheel and with a little Tetris mastery, you can get it out
[quote=”nightflyr” post=194164]If you suspect a leaking injector.
Isolate the injectors from the fuel system ( clamp off the supply and return lines )
Then pressure test the fuel rail.[/quote]
I’ll YouTube that one. The lines are steel for mine[quote=”relative4″ post=194163]Need clarification. What are your trims at idle, 2K,and 4K? What are your misfire counts?[/quote]
Fuel trim at idle for stft sits right at -4 average. On load of 2500 it sits at -14 average. I haven’t done 4000March 6, 2018 at 10:45 am in reply to: Jeep 4.0L high idle when map sensor vaccum line connected. #886773It sounds like the issue you are having is a rich condition, not a lean one. If you have a fuel pressure regulator, test it to make sure it is working properly by disconnecting the vacuum line right after you run the car. If you see fuel, it is bad. You can also disconnect the line while the car is at idle and see if there is a change in idle. You could also test for leaking injectors. You can also check your o2 sensors to make sure they aren’t bad with a computer. Do these checks to diagnose. Don’t spend money on components you don’t need. If you can’t diagnose, go with the cheapest solution first. Good luck
March 6, 2018 at 10:34 am in reply to: 2000 civic ex 5speed. A clicking sound is heard after new clutch install. #886772It sounds to me like a bolt is loose on the flywheel. If it sounds like a diesel engine especially. The vibration sent through the flywheel will do this. If you installed a lightweight flywheel, this is actually normal. One of the down sides to them. Another would be a lose bolt on the pressure plate. Follow the specified toque specs and make sure you torque in the proper sequence to ensure even pressure on the components be it the flywheel or the pressure plate.
As for the hydraulic line, you don’t need to bleed it if you didn’t open the system.
As for the pedal travel, it could be normal depending on the condition of the old clutch to the new one or it could be whatever is loose on the transaxle. Check to make sure you didn’t get a lightweight flywheel by accident or if it was on purpose, it’s normal. Remember to break in your new components to avoid glazing and good luckHey Eric,
It has been a long time since I have responded. Sorry this semester was really hard and took a lot of my time. It is truly relaxing and humbling to be able to talk about something like this because it gets me back to reality. I wanted to say something that I was thinking through the whole video: there is not a lot of money in this. Now hear me out because I know that is not entirely true. When you talk about the person who goes and washes windows and those who work in fabrication. They do not get paid too well. I think that is what deters people from jobs like that. There is a whole idea that is strong among people my age is that you need to go out and make a lot of money and be the ceo and to have a lot of money and a big house because you need to be better than your parents. They push you hard to have what they couldn’t and there is nothing wrong with that but, what is missing from that discussion is that people who have moved up in the vocational jobs and make decent money without needing to go through college exist. My uncle and other members of my family have gotten to where they live comfortable and do not have to scrape to get by day by day. They worked hard and their jobs require that they get home tired. I see them happy in that though and that is really what needs to get pushed. Go out and do what you like and get good at it. When you are good at it, it will not be work. You will also get going with money. You do not need a lot to be comfortable. Sure some things in the bucket list may never be removed but the essentials will. That is the biggest issue coming up. I hope that this helped sort of bring out the mentality of the typical millenial
Say Eric,
I was always curious about the power steering systems and was curious if you ever came across electric power steering units. Do they make some that could be fitted aftermarket? Do they do retrofits by chance? Would you have mounted some to increase the horses of your car if money was not a factor and assuming that they are available? Let me know thank you.
Chris
Hey bud check out this video by eric if you have not done so already. He mentions spacers to the k-member to allow hood room while still helping the clearing of the engine. Might help you with your issues…
I have seen this too many times. I like to keep up with the maintenance of the car myself so I don’t use them. I had to once but it was because I had just bought the car for 500$ (yes bad shape) and it blew the tire on the way home. They come in handy but was not on the highway after I installed it. I cant understand why people think this is ok to have as a daily tire. On a side note though, I have seen people replace their spare in the trunk with a full size one. I think that is smart if you have the money for it.
I would say go an post it under a live q&a session. Seems to be the only time he can get to questions. Back when this site was not as popular I would see him answer pretty often. Now a days it is usually moderators though moderators do a good job of relaying good information themselves. No one like eric on this one though I agree with that
Is there a unit that disables the car if the chip from the key is not present on the car? check the chip on the key and check the killing unit see if there is an issue there. That is what it sounds like to me if it has one. I cant think of another reason it would fail honestly. You may have to bite the bullet and take it to a dealer or try deciphering a wiring diagram and see where you may be losing connections or what it could possibly be.
as far as safety goes, that is up to an engineer to decide but I would make sure the engine sits level (shim all the motor mounts) to avoid uneven weight distribution and alignment and things like that (also depending on how much you need to shim). Eric is probably the best person to answer that as he has modified the Fairmont (also a fox body). To me, I like keeping things stock myself so I personally would have a better piece of mind keeping things as close to stock as possible and the reason for my reply being level the engine out throughout.
It is either going to be no fuel, no air, or no spark. Looks like you covered your bases with the electrical components. I would only look for disconnected harness going to the plugs and things like that though for all of them to fail to where you have no start is unlikely. Check your fuel pump fuses, then relays, then check for clogged fuel filter or clogged injectors. In that order as the others are not as likely to give you this big of issues. If it throws codes, I would look at those systems first as it could be a bad sensor that is disabling your engine from starting. Sometimes one harness being disconnected can give you many other codes that are not even related so make sure everything is connected. I have seen on some ford vehicles where a mass airflow sensor was disconnected and it gave a code for crankshaft position sensor. Just a good idea to check everything….
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