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Just now I moved one of the bolts from the bottom of the water pump to the hole, and it went in clean, made good thread-contact, didn’t wobble as it went in, and held on tight. I tightened it to basically the point of minimal resistance, and let go. I think I may be in the clear, this time. *wipes sweat*
I have never cross-threaded anything, (almost always go counter-clockwise first, until threads engage, then clockwise from there), but today was a wake-up call to NEVER EVER NOT DO THAT EVER AGAIN. EVER. Quite the scare.
I meant to say inch pounds. I set it to about 6 foot pounds, but it just kept torquing, and then eventually slipped on the bolt. When I went to unscrew it, it came right out by hand, with a tilt. So I guess it was cross threaded.
Thanks guys. Does the timing belt tensioner leaking mean that there is a leak inside the timing cover, or does the timing belt tensioner bolts normally seal an oil chamber? I have 17,000 miles and/or 2 years before the timing belt is due for replacement, but if the oil could cause premature failure, I’ll look into changing it now, (instead of 1 month from now, after I move cross country).
I’ve been having a whining engine recently as well, kind of a whirring noise that gets worse when you give it RPMs,( even at idle) until the din of the other things overloads it, and you can’t hear it anymore. It’s pretty consistent when I give it any gas. seems to be coming from the center of the engine, not the power steering pump, and not (blatantly) the alternator, although the coils inside the alternator a little old and dirty/corroded looking.
Could this sound be related to either leak? Perhaps the oil pressure is less because of the leak, and that’s somehow causing the noise? I’ve also got delayed timing due to a faulty knock sensor, a catalytic converter with 250,000 miles on it, an A/C system low on refrigerant, a parasitic draw on my battery, and a clock that’s not working (boy it’s fun keeping up with an old car, isn’t it?)
Thanks much guys, I figured the cat might be the problem, although I used an IR thermometer on the cat after driving for an hour, and it showed the input at like 180 degrees and the output at like, 230 or something (I forget the exact numbers, but the output was higher number by 40-50 degrees). I read somewhere that was typical for a three way cat because they were more efficient or something. It’s hard to find good specific data on what the temperature readings should be.
1. On this vehicle it’s a three-way warm up cat system. Is there likely to be a single weak link, or is it necessary/recommended to replace all 3 parts at once?
2. Might it damage the engine to drive it for a 3,500 mile cross country trip, or is the primary issue fuel economy?
3. The Knock sensor on bank 2 needs replaced as well, (which I believe means the ignition timing is delayed), and also effects fuel economy. Which issue should take priority?
The Pump is this one: http:// http://www.eb ay. com /itm/ 350735914066 (Remove spaces, it won’t let me post the link for some reason) I think it’s aftermarket.
Yeah, I had the rear elevated about the rear. The pump is new, although I made the mistake a couple days ago of trying to bleed it while it was running for the first time, and it made a horrible squealing noise, and erupted transmission fluid out of the reservoir like a 5th grade science experiment. I turned it off and found a leak in the low-pressure reservoir to pump hose, turned out to be a pinched o-ring, which I replaced today. Leak is gone.
I may have found the culprit though: http://imgbox.com/HdnrH9zR
It appears a tiny pebble is embedded in the belt. I’m going to replace the belt and hope for the best.
Here’s a picture: http://imgbox.com/Fbyodz5b
Do you have to squeeze it to get it on there as well? Does anyone have any experience with this BS?
Also, Freeze Frame Data for P0330:
FUELSYS1 – CL
FUELSYS2 – CL
Calc Load (%) – 35.7%
ETC (F’) – 185
SHRTF1 (%) -2.3%
LONGFT1 (%) 15.6%
SHRFT2 (%) -0.8%
LONGFT2 (%) 14.1%
RPM (/min) 2075 RPM
VSS (mph) – 57 MPH
Intake Air Temp (‘F) – 57’So, running lean. Not sure if that is because of the knock code, or the knock code’s because of the lean condition.
I had a look under the front valve cover and it was nice and clean, regular oil, no sludge or buildup at all. No metal shavings or coolant. It’s nice to have the peace of mind. I don’t think I could have forgiven myself if I bought a sludged up POS. Thanks again guys.
Thanks alot guys, I’m going to take this to a shop today before I buy. They recommended replacing the valve cover gasket while we’re at it instead of reinstalling the old one. Is basically any amount of sludge a deal-breaker? It seems like I’ve seen a continuum between hard buildup and toxic black goo, are they both equally bad in any measure?
I’m considering buying a tester kit to test the oil for contaminants, (seeing that little yellowish blob floating in the oil in picture) any suggestions?
Here’s a video of it running. I’m thinking it sounds pretty good for 250k: https://vid.me/k9Mm