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Well, I know the fuel pressure is fine, I’ve already checked for that. The fuel injectors seem to operate fine, I used the screw driver test on those. Is there a way to test the fuel cap? I do hear pressure release when I unscrew it, whether that means anything or not, I don’t know. Vacuum leaks may be the last thing I look at just because that seems so time intensive, unless I buy some expensive equipment to test it quicker.
Should I check the FPR even if the fuel pressure is perfectly fine? I loosened the banjo bolt on the fuel filter and turned the key to the first click and fuel sprayed everywhere.
Well the gurgling sound is what I suspect to be the main shaft bearing. It’s not a separate problem. Usually people describe it is a whining sound when it goes out, where just gurgles or makes a light rumbling sound.
(update) I just took off the brake pads. The outer pad is totally worn down, but the inner pad is almost untouched. Also, there is an inner grove on the rotor where the outer pad was deliver pressure.
It scrapes very lightly when moving. At first, I only heard it when I put on the brakes, but when I braked more and more it became a little bit more noticeable when driving. Glazed brakes/rotors maybe?
I certainly will!!! The first thing I want to do, is check if my oil pan is flat and even. Do you know of an accurate way of checking this?
I have done this job multiple times. I’ve experimented with the use of sealant or no sealant. I know how the procedure goes. It’s just badly engineered as far as gaskets go. This MyHondaHabit gasket, doesn’t squeeze out when torqued down and maintains its shape. So, I am quite interested in using this gasket because it seems to do what the Felpro gaskets don’t do. I’ve bought countless Felpro gaskets and I’m sure all of the other gaskets do the same thing, seeing that they are made out of the same material. If there is one thing I didn’t do, it is retorque the bolts after driving it. That is something that is never mentioned in the procedure. But I don’t thing it is a good idea to do the exact same thing I did last time, but retorque the bolts. I’m pretty sure I’ll just end up with the same results.
Nope, 5W-30. Says so in the manual. I don’t think using sealant on both sides of the gasket would do any harm would it? I rebuilt this engine over a year ago and it has held up pretty well, except for the leak. The valve cover is fine, so I know it’s not that. I have checked everywhere and haven’t seen any sign of leaks other than the oil pan, in a few areas. When I look on the exhaust, it had a oil streak starting from the front of the engine, right under where the oil pan is. No streaks going down that side of the engine, so I can suspect the oil pan.
Well, it’s a 1995, so there is no OBDII or scanning. There is shorting a connector out with a paper clip and checking the codes through CEL flashes. Haha. There are none. I’m just trying figure out the lack of acceleration I’m getting sometimes. It bogs a bit. Freshly rebuilt engine too. It runes great, just accelerates a little sluggish at times.
I do not hear any hissing on the intake side. I’ll still inspect the hoses connecting to the intake. The intake manifold and throttle body gaskets are new. It is very possible that the timing is off a notch. The belt was recently replaced and might have stretched itself out a bit and broke itself in. Thanks for the info 🙂
I’m going to be more specific on the hesitation. It hesitates in 1st gear more than anything, especially at operating temperature. It could be that I’m running too rich or lean, but I just rebuilt this b18b1 engine. It was an issue before. Better after the rebuild. Oh and that fluctuation was just the FITV that needed to be cleaned.
Thanks for the feedback 🙂 Yeah, I did that and I also installed a new kick down cable and adjusted that as well. It has always had this characteristic before the new kick down. I do wonder if the fluctuation and the hesitation are 2 symptoms of the same problem.
Here is another way of looking at it
The position it is in, in the picture, is as far as it should turn going clockwise, on mine, that as how far it goes counterclockwise.
I took the old cable off, but I had to tug on it to see where the pin on the cable was connected. That rotator is suppose to be turned 180 degrees compared to the picture. I can rotate it up and down, but it’s as if something mechanical on the inside is keeping it from rotating 180 degrees where it suppose to be.
