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Are the backing plates rotted? if they are the pins for the e brake shoes are probably not holding, which wont put any tension on the shoes. e brakes are very important, the park brake inside the transmission is deceiving to most, it is really just a small piece of metal that get wedged on the output shaft. on my 05 durango i have the same problem, i need new backing plates and a cable. the plates are rusted and flex, and the cable is worn out and stretches a week after i adjust it. good luck!
Are the backing plates rotted? if they are the pins for the e brake shoes are probably not holding, which wont put any tension on the shoes. e brakes are very important, the park brake inside the transmission is deceiving to most, it is really just a small piece of metal that get wedged on the output shaft. on my 05 durango i have the same problem, i need new backing plates and a cable. the plates are rusted and flex, and the cable is worn out and stretches a week after i adjust it. good luck!
I don’t know if I missed something in the video, but any thought as to why that switch melted? Good video Eric, Thanks!
I don’t know if I missed something in the video, but any thought as to why that switch melted? Good video Eric, Thanks!
I think that the shocks are original, they ride OK, but most likely need to be replaced, I will look into the rotors, I might just replace them depending on how much they cost. I know its going to need new front pads soon, but the vibrating doesn’t change if you apply the brakes. I am heading outside soon to do the alternator, and maybe the timing belt/ water pump today, so I will check everything over when I do that. Thanks!
I think that the shocks are original, they ride OK, but most likely need to be replaced, I will look into the rotors, I might just replace them depending on how much they cost. I know its going to need new front pads soon, but the vibrating doesn’t change if you apply the brakes. I am heading outside soon to do the alternator, and maybe the timing belt/ water pump today, so I will check everything over when I do that. Thanks!
I’m not against synthetics, in fact I use full synthetic in my 05 durango, and in my 03 Odyssey. I just think that you aren’t going to benefit anything from switching to synthetic at this point. especially if you are going to run that engine for only 2 more years. I run conventional in my 94 Buick regal, but the engine has 60k miles on it. however I will never put synthetic in it because it runs just fine with conventional, and it was made to run on conventional. I just keep the oil and filter changed, and it runs great. I think that if I was going to run synthetic in your Subaru I would have done it 80k miles ago, but since it doesn’t have any problems, and you have been running conventional oil this long, I would just stick with it.
I’m not against synthetics, in fact I use full synthetic in my 05 durango, and in my 03 Odyssey. I just think that you aren’t going to benefit anything from switching to synthetic at this point. especially if you are going to run that engine for only 2 more years. I run conventional in my 94 Buick regal, but the engine has 60k miles on it. however I will never put synthetic in it because it runs just fine with conventional, and it was made to run on conventional. I just keep the oil and filter changed, and it runs great. I think that if I was going to run synthetic in your Subaru I would have done it 80k miles ago, but since it doesn’t have any problems, and you have been running conventional oil this long, I would just stick with it.
Ok, I guess it is possible that the rim could be bent, but wouldnt the vibration go away in the steering wheel if I rotated the front two tires to the back? because I have rotated them and it is the same.
Ok, I guess it is possible that the rim could be bent, but wouldnt the vibration go away in the steering wheel if I rotated the front two tires to the back? because I have rotated them and it is the same.
I do not think that it is horrible to degrease an engine. Engines get wet all the time. car wash, driving in the rain, etc, etc. I detailed cars for a few years with my Dad, and all that you have to do is get a good degreaser, some trash bags, and a garden hose. DO NOT USE A PRESSURE WASHER! Use common sense, I always put 2 bags over the serpentine belt, I don’t worry about the battery, but you could cover that as well. and lightly spray the top of the engine. Don’t spray so much water on it that the coils/spark plugs are submerged in water. The best thing to do is to keep it clean, don’t let it get too dirty, so you aren’t being as aggressive with the water, and degreaser. Just cover the belt, lightly spray everything with a garden hose, apply your degreaser, let it sit 5 minutes at the most! then lightly rinse everything off. if you have to use a scotch bright to clean plastic bottles, etc. If it is really dirty, clean it this weekend, then do it again next weekend. I do like working on a clean engine, but just use common sense, 99% of the stuff under the hood is able to get wet, but not submerged, or blasted with a fire hose. and make sure you let the car run for a little bit afterwards because it will dry itself off.
I do not think that it is horrible to degrease an engine. Engines get wet all the time. car wash, driving in the rain, etc, etc. I detailed cars for a few years with my Dad, and all that you have to do is get a good degreaser, some trash bags, and a garden hose. DO NOT USE A PRESSURE WASHER! Use common sense, I always put 2 bags over the serpentine belt, I don’t worry about the battery, but you could cover that as well. and lightly spray the top of the engine. Don’t spray so much water on it that the coils/spark plugs are submerged in water. The best thing to do is to keep it clean, don’t let it get too dirty, so you aren’t being as aggressive with the water, and degreaser. Just cover the belt, lightly spray everything with a garden hose, apply your degreaser, let it sit 5 minutes at the most! then lightly rinse everything off. if you have to use a scotch bright to clean plastic bottles, etc. If it is really dirty, clean it this weekend, then do it again next weekend. I do like working on a clean engine, but just use common sense, 99% of the stuff under the hood is able to get wet, but not submerged, or blasted with a fire hose. and make sure you let the car run for a little bit afterwards because it will dry itself off.
Thank You for all the advice everyone! I think that I will do the thermostat if I have time, I am defiantly doing the hoses though. I don’t think that I will have a problem being that I am going to use Honda parts. I use all aftermarket parts for my other vehicles, but I prefer to use genuine Honda parts on the odyssey, plus they are only a little bit more, but they are always a guaranteed fit. So I am looking at the Tru-Cool 4544 tranny cooler, and a magnafine inline filter. Does anyone have any experience with either of these? I am basing my decision from what I have gathered over at the ody club forum.Oh and I drove it from Pittsburgh to Erie last weekend and it still has a horrible shimmie/vibration in the steering wheel from 60mph to 80 mph then it stops. so the new front tires did not fix it. I really do not want to drive it to Florida that way because I will most likely get carpel tunnel from it, its that bad. Thanks for all the help everyone, I can always count on the people at ETCG.