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HOOOOORAY!!! I fixed the stupid intrepid! So after a week of contemplation and $100 in parts yesterday it ended up being a $6 blown fuse. the worst part it that I checked the fuse previously and it was fine, but I checked it again this morning and sure enough it was blown. anyways thanks for the help everyone!
Sorry I haven’t replied yet everyone, i was out of town over the weekend. so today i changed the thermostat and the coolant sensor and ran it up to 97 degrees C and I ended up shutting it off because it seemed like it was getting so hot. there is no way that it was not past the 106-110 degrees. im just judging the temp by how hot the valve covers and rad hoses are. when its at 97 degrees. i mean its like scalding hot to the touch. even when i turn on the AC, nothing. when i have the heat on its REALLY hot and constant heat not intermittent like there is air in it. I had the bleeder open with a clear hose on it and there wasn’t any air coming out of it. I did check the thermostat before i installed it and it opened and everything. so im stumped at this point I just don’t see why it would be a wiring issue being that its getting a signal from the sensor and if i unplug the sensor both fans come on at full speed, but then of course I get a check engine light. I really appreciate the help, I need to get this car back on the road soon 🙂
Sorry I haven’t replied yet everyone, i was out of town over the weekend. so today i changed the thermostat and the coolant sensor and ran it up to 97 degrees C and I ended up shutting it off because it seemed like it was getting so hot. there is no way that it was not past the 106-110 degrees. im just judging the temp by how hot the valve covers and rad hoses are. when its at 97 degrees. i mean its like scalding hot to the touch. even when i turn on the AC, nothing. when i have the heat on its REALLY hot and constant heat not intermittent like there is air in it. I had the bleeder open with a clear hose on it and there wasn’t any air coming out of it. I did check the thermostat before i installed it and it opened and everything. so im stumped at this point I just don’t see why it would be a wiring issue being that its getting a signal from the sensor and if i unplug the sensor both fans come on at full speed, but then of course I get a check engine light. I really appreciate the help, I need to get this car back on the road soon 🙂
Yes it would help if you got the code read, sounds like its a fuel problem. The pump might be starting to die, might explain why it runs poorly for a few seconds when starting, and might also explain why it stalls every so often.
Yes it would help if you got the code read, sounds like its a fuel problem. The pump might be starting to die, might explain why it runs poorly for a few seconds when starting, and might also explain why it stalls every so often.
First you need to do a compression test. remove all the plugs and take out the fuel pump relay or fuse. Inspect the plugs,and keep them with the cylinder they came out of, just put holes in cardboard and label them you can keep track. first do a dry compression test and record what you get for each cylinder with the cardboard with the plugs in it. if there are any that are low or not consistent with the others, put some tranny fluid in that cylinder and do the compression test again in that cylinder. if the number gets bigger then its for sure your rings. Note: that if all of your reading are consistent but low (below 120-100) depending on the age of the engine, then you either need to rebuild or replace the engine, if so, hopefully its just your valves and not your rings, because in that case you would be better off getting another engine. so if you want to know if its you valves you need to do a leak down test. do you have and air compressor? if so you don’t need a tester, just put a breaker bar on the crank pulley, the cylinder you are testing must be at top dead center, and thread your air hose into the plug hole. pressurize it to 30 to 40 psi and listed for leaks in the exhaust, intake, and your oil fill hole. If you hear air in the intake or exhaust its your valves, of valve seals. if you hear it in the oil fill hole its your rings. just make sure you hold the breaker bar because it will turn the engine over when you pressurize it. my guess is the grinding noise was something else, most likely the starter wasn’t disengaging due to the temp or something. The other thing you may want to consider is a bad pcv valve. take off a couple of vacuum lines and see if there id oil in them. the backfire would point to exhaust valves maybe. When was the last time the timing belt was changed? keep us posted.
First you need to do a compression test. remove all the plugs and take out the fuel pump relay or fuse. Inspect the plugs,and keep them with the cylinder they came out of, just put holes in cardboard and label them you can keep track. first do a dry compression test and record what you get for each cylinder with the cardboard with the plugs in it. if there are any that are low or not consistent with the others, put some tranny fluid in that cylinder and do the compression test again in that cylinder. if the number gets bigger then its for sure your rings. Note: that if all of your reading are consistent but low (below 120-100) depending on the age of the engine, then you either need to rebuild or replace the engine, if so, hopefully its just your valves and not your rings, because in that case you would be better off getting another engine. so if you want to know if its you valves you need to do a leak down test. do you have and air compressor? if so you don’t need a tester, just put a breaker bar on the crank pulley, the cylinder you are testing must be at top dead center, and thread your air hose into the plug hole. pressurize it to 30 to 40 psi and listed for leaks in the exhaust, intake, and your oil fill hole. If you hear air in the intake or exhaust its your valves, of valve seals. if you hear it in the oil fill hole its your rings. just make sure you hold the breaker bar because it will turn the engine over when you pressurize it. my guess is the grinding noise was something else, most likely the starter wasn’t disengaging due to the temp or something. The other thing you may want to consider is a bad pcv valve. take off a couple of vacuum lines and see if there id oil in them. the backfire would point to exhaust valves maybe. When was the last time the timing belt was changed? keep us posted.
Yes, i am going to keep an eye on the voltage. I have a torque wrench, a pulley puller, etc. I have more tools than you think, ive actually changed two engines this year. In my 05 durango and in my 94 regal. Ive done a timingbelt before, but im gonna watch erics v manual just to be sure. The hoses are actually really still by the engine and i suspect they are original. So i figure i may as wall do tbem if im gonna open the system. I have the honda collant for it. The back motor mount i suspect is bad and i hear its common on these, because it has the 5cspeed tranny which suffers from the hard shift into reverse. But every time its in reverse and i back out of my driveway i can hear the bushing in the mount squeeking, and if i put it in park on level ground withiut the oark brake on and rock it back and forth i can replicate the noise and i think there is definately play in it. I use all the honda fluids on it just because they almost cost the same, and i know its rights. Thanks again for the help!
Yes, i am going to keep an eye on the voltage. I have a torque wrench, a pulley puller, etc. I have more tools than you think, ive actually changed two engines this year. In my 05 durango and in my 94 regal. Ive done a timingbelt before, but im gonna watch erics v manual just to be sure. The hoses are actually really still by the engine and i suspect they are original. So i figure i may as wall do tbem if im gonna open the system. I have the honda collant for it. The back motor mount i suspect is bad and i hear its common on these, because it has the 5cspeed tranny which suffers from the hard shift into reverse. But every time its in reverse and i back out of my driveway i can hear the bushing in the mount squeeking, and if i put it in park on level ground withiut the oark brake on and rock it back and forth i can replicate the noise and i think there is definately play in it. I use all the honda fluids on it just because they almost cost the same, and i know its rights. Thanks again for the help!
Unfortunately no they did not test it, they were really busy, and the guy just wanted me out the door, i must say that the new one is much nicer it just looks like its of better quality. I guess the only other thing i can think of is that the computer is going bad and isnt telling the alternator when to start charging, if this vehicle even works this way. The van is running good so far, i am going to change the pos terminal end tomorrow along with the rear motor mount, timing belt, water pump, oil, tranny fluid, rad hoses, and belts. I am driving it to florida in a week whichis about 2000 miles round trip. So hopefully i wont be on the side of the road. Do you by chance know if the computer tells the alternator when to engage, or is there a separate unit that does so, or does the alternator engage on its own? I think it called the load detector. Thanks for the help!
Unfortunately no they did not test it, they were really busy, and the guy just wanted me out the door, i must say that the new one is much nicer it just looks like its of better quality. I guess the only other thing i can think of is that the computer is going bad and isnt telling the alternator when to start charging, if this vehicle even works this way. The van is running good so far, i am going to change the pos terminal end tomorrow along with the rear motor mount, timing belt, water pump, oil, tranny fluid, rad hoses, and belts. I am driving it to florida in a week whichis about 2000 miles round trip. So hopefully i wont be on the side of the road. Do you by chance know if the computer tells the alternator when to engage, or is there a separate unit that does so, or does the alternator engage on its own? I think it called the load detector. Thanks for the help!
Ok, so I checked for a short to ground, didn’t have one. I had battery voltage at the alternator pos lead when the car wasn’t running, and when it was running it was putting out 8.5 volts. So they gave me a new alternator and its running good now, its putting out 14 volts. The spliced wiring is behind the battery box and its like 3 white wires, like 15 gauge maybe. I don’t think that they are for the charging system though. But it looks clean and it looks like it was put back together good. The battery terminal is tight with that screw in it but I’m going to fix it, the problem is that the terminals on the battery are too small for the clamp. And its a new battery so, yeah. I got the battery checked too and it is still good.
Ok, so I checked for a short to ground, didn’t have one. I had battery voltage at the alternator pos lead when the car wasn’t running, and when it was running it was putting out 8.5 volts. So they gave me a new alternator and its running good now, its putting out 14 volts. The spliced wiring is behind the battery box and its like 3 white wires, like 15 gauge maybe. I don’t think that they are for the charging system though. But it looks clean and it looks like it was put back together good. The battery terminal is tight with that screw in it but I’m going to fix it, the problem is that the terminals on the battery are too small for the clamp. And its a new battery so, yeah. I got the battery checked too and it is still good.
Ok so i know the belt isnt slipping, i just had the belt off when i did the alternator and the tensioner was just liie evry oth e r tsnsioner i have ever pulled back. It isnt slipping because i would think that there would be a chirpig from the belt, but i already checked that while i was on the side of the road with it. I do also think that the alternator is the issue because if the poor voltage while its running. I might just put the honda one back in since i know it works, and take the new one to get benched, and i will take the battery with me as weel to get tested. As for the wiring that is the thing that bothers me the most. The previous owner seemes to havehad a field day with some of the wirig, i mean its all together, but is spliced and climped back together in places. I thought the problem was a loose pos battery terminal because these napa batteries dont have the right size terminals for the cables. Its jut a little bit smaller, but someone put a machine screw in between the terminal and the clamp to take up the space. So ill get the alternator and battery looked at and get back to you, thanks!
Ok so i know the belt isnt slipping, i just had the belt off when i did the alternator and the tensioner was just liie evry oth e r tsnsioner i have ever pulled back. It isnt slipping because i would think that there would be a chirpig from the belt, but i already checked that while i was on the side of the road with it. I do also think that the alternator is the issue because if the poor voltage while its running. I might just put the honda one back in since i know it works, and take the new one to get benched, and i will take the battery with me as weel to get tested. As for the wiring that is the thing that bothers me the most. The previous owner seemes to havehad a field day with some of the wirig, i mean its all together, but is spliced and climped back together in places. I thought the problem was a loose pos battery terminal because these napa batteries dont have the right size terminals for the cables. Its jut a little bit smaller, but someone put a machine screw in between the terminal and the clamp to take up the space. So ill get the alternator and battery looked at and get back to you, thanks!