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http://www.justanswer.com/hyundai/4tv0m-hyundai-sonata-2003-hyundai-sonata-starting-problem.html
take a look at this I think it might help.
http://www.justanswer.com/hyundai/4tv0m-hyundai-sonata-2003-hyundai-sonata-starting-problem.html
take a look at this I think it might help.
I would be leaning towards the neutral safety switch more than anything, I have seen that cause both no starts, and not allowing a car to shift from park. Keep in mind the car wont start in any gear but park or neutral so if the range sensor/neutral safety switch has failed it could definitely cause a no start. I have had it happen myself.
I would be leaning towards the neutral safety switch more than anything, I have seen that cause both no starts, and not allowing a car to shift from park. Keep in mind the car wont start in any gear but park or neutral so if the range sensor/neutral safety switch has failed it could definitely cause a no start. I have had it happen myself.
Well good news! I got the car running today, turned out to be just a bad ground, not sure how I overlooked that one, but now at least I’ve set a good example why you shouldn’t throw parts at something. Thanks Everyone for your input!
Well good news! I got the car running today, turned out to be just a bad ground, not sure how I overlooked that one, but now at least I’ve set a good example why you shouldn’t throw parts at something. Thanks Everyone for your input!
I’ll definitely check the battery cables, I just think its strange that some of the fuses have 12v across them and others have less than 1v. Thanks for the info!
I’ll definitely check the battery cables, I just think its strange that some of the fuses have 12v across them and others have less than 1v. Thanks for the info!
So I went back out to the car and found something interesting, all of the fuses on the dash panel of the car have .64 volts to them except for the PCM crank fuse. it has 11.57. I also found that the radio fuse was blown which I thought was possibly the problem since the radio is a part of the passlock system, but I replaced it and nothing changed, but why was it blown in the first place? because the radio was working before I put the radiator in. I would think that those fuses should have more than .64 volts in the ACC position, there has to be a fault in the wiring somewhere.and in the underhood fuse block there are 6 fuses right next to eachother that have no power, one of these is “engine devices”.
So I went back out to the car and found something interesting, all of the fuses on the dash panel of the car have .64 volts to them except for the PCM crank fuse. it has 11.57. I also found that the radio fuse was blown which I thought was possibly the problem since the radio is a part of the passlock system, but I replaced it and nothing changed, but why was it blown in the first place? because the radio was working before I put the radiator in. I would think that those fuses should have more than .64 volts in the ACC position, there has to be a fault in the wiring somewhere.and in the underhood fuse block there are 6 fuses right next to eachother that have no power, one of these is “engine devices”.
Ok so I installed the new PCM and it is still doing absolutely nothing but turning the check engine light on. Im getting frustrated being that I cant find any diagrams for this car either. Im thinking about just getting a different harness from the junk yard and seeing if that will do it, I just dont see how I damaged any electrical by putting the radiator in.
Ok so I installed the new PCM and it is still doing absolutely nothing but turning the check engine light on. Im getting frustrated being that I cant find any diagrams for this car either. Im thinking about just getting a different harness from the junk yard and seeing if that will do it, I just dont see how I damaged any electrical by putting the radiator in.
Thanks for your response Eric! Well I decided I would order a PCM for it because I could get one that was programmed to the vehicle for $70 and the PCM has good power and ground running to it, but it has no functionality whatsoever. I blame this possible failure on the fact that the ignition went bad recently and was replaced, however I think that the ignition sent voltage spikes to the PCM which damaged it, and maybe when I removed to change the radiator it pushed it to failure. I am also thinking it was on its way out because recently I noticed when you turn the key it takes it a second to respond as if its running slow. I will definitely post again once I get the new PCM installed and see if that solves the issue.
Thanks for your response Eric! Well I decided I would order a PCM for it because I could get one that was programmed to the vehicle for $70 and the PCM has good power and ground running to it, but it has no functionality whatsoever. I blame this possible failure on the fact that the ignition went bad recently and was replaced, however I think that the ignition sent voltage spikes to the PCM which damaged it, and maybe when I removed to change the radiator it pushed it to failure. I am also thinking it was on its way out because recently I noticed when you turn the key it takes it a second to respond as if its running slow. I will definitely post again once I get the new PCM installed and see if that solves the issue.