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Yeah you were right, I hooked my scope up and graphed the sensor and it drops off and spikes at idle, and when i move the throttle plate and tap on it it spikes and drops as well. I didn’t think that the tps was bad being that it ran good and shifted fine, I assumed it was good and look where that got me. Ill verify that this fixed it once I get the sensor swapped out. Thanks again -Darren and have a great weekend everyone!
I’m glad you mentioned the throttle plate cleaning as it is the only thing i have not done yet. I just hadn’t considered that since they usually only need cleaned if they are sticking, but i think its definitely an air supply issue. I am thinking the throttle body might just be caked up since when I changed the IAC valve the old one was really gunked up. I’m probably going to take the whole throttle body off and clean it, I also was considering just taking the air filter out and see if it will start better which would verify n air supply problem. Note that I am not throwing parts at it all of the things I replaced were bad for the most part but I thought the problem would fix itself once I replaced them, go figure. I will let you know what I find, Thanks -Darren
I’m glad you mentioned the throttle plate cleaning as it is the only thing i have not done yet. I just hadn’t considered that since they usually only need cleaned if they are sticking, but i think its definitely an air supply issue. I am thinking the throttle body might just be caked up since when I changed the IAC valve the old one was really gunked up. I’m probably going to take the whole throttle body off and clean it, I also was considering just taking the air filter out and see if it will start better which would verify n air supply problem. Note that I am not throwing parts at it all of the things I replaced were bad for the most part but I thought the problem would fix itself once I replaced them, go figure. I will let you know what I find, Thanks -Darren
The rotor will wobble with the wheel off of the car, once the wheel goes on the lug nuts will squeeze the rotor between the back of the rim and the wheel hub. If the rotor is wobbly withe the wheel fully torqued, then something is not installed correctly.
The rotor will wobble with the wheel off of the car, once the wheel goes on the lug nuts will squeeze the rotor between the back of the rim and the wheel hub. If the rotor is wobbly withe the wheel fully torqued, then something is not installed correctly.
This $30 part could bypass the AC compressor, If it were me and I did not want to fix the AC I would just go this route.
This $30 part could bypass the AC compressor, If it were me and I did not want to fix the AC I would just go this route.
Also if there is not an alternate belt routing you might try and see if there is a compressor delete option. basically a bracket that bolts where the compressor goes and has the same size pulley attached to it. Or you could try to source a compressor at a salvage yard that is cheap, but still spins well enough. I would also check the tensioner pulley because as you said it was wobbling, which isn’t normal even if the compressor bearing went bad or fell off.
Also if there is not an alternate belt routing you might try and see if there is a compressor delete option. basically a bracket that bolts where the compressor goes and has the same size pulley attached to it. Or you could try to source a compressor at a salvage yard that is cheap, but still spins well enough. I would also check the tensioner pulley because as you said it was wobbling, which isn’t normal even if the compressor bearing went bad or fell off.
It was the ground that piggybacks right off of the negative battery terminal, I think what happened was when I swapped the transmission I only threaded it in finger tight. But as soon as I tightened it up everything was back to normal.
It was the ground that piggybacks right off of the negative battery terminal, I think what happened was when I swapped the transmission I only threaded it in finger tight. But as soon as I tightened it up everything was back to normal.
It should be right where the shift cable goes to the transmission. It could be connected directly to the cable or on some sort of linkage, It should be externally mounted though, I dont believe you will be encountering any transmission fluid when replacing it.
It should be right where the shift cable goes to the transmission. It could be connected directly to the cable or on some sort of linkage, It should be externally mounted though, I dont believe you will be encountering any transmission fluid when replacing it.
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2003/hyundai/sonata/transmission/neutral_safety_switch.html
NO problem pretty inexpensive part, but I would definitely look into the wiring first.
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2003/hyundai/sonata/transmission/neutral_safety_switch.html
NO problem pretty inexpensive part, but I would definitely look into the wiring first.