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well I don’t have a vacuum gauge, but it seems strong if i take it off and put my finger on it it clings to it. It seems to have great vacuum, it has no leaks, but its running rich and seems starved for air during 50% of start ups. because if I open the trottle plate the slightest bit it will fire right up. Heck even If i take the pcv o ring out it will start, or if I take the vacuum line off the brake booster it will start. Also When I look at my live data and compare it to normal start vs no start there are no differences. Its damn frustrating.
but I don’t think the old one was bad to begin with, I have had three on the car so far, including a new one, and it doesn’t have any affect.
but I don’t think the old one was bad to begin with, I have had three on the car so far, including a new one, and it doesn’t have any affect.
Hi Eric,
Well the PCV ended up not working of course, I think its fixed because it will start fine 5 times in a row then all hell breaks loose. So the car has horrible fuel pressure leak down after i shut the car off, like it drops to 20 psi almost immediately. So I put a used fuel rail, and set of injectors on it today with my new fuel pressure regulator to no avail. So I don’t understand where it could be leaking? the fuel pump is new, the fuel pressure regulator is new, and the injectors aren’t leaking, because the leakdown rate was the same with both sets of injectors. so what does that leave me with? The other thing to note is that when it doesnt start its not like it just cranks, it cranks acts like it has started but doesnt start its just as though you got to start the car and it cranks the normal time and the starter cuts off but the rpms are at 0. Also the rpms peak at 1500 when it is cranking just as an FYI i guess. but basically the fuel pressure does not hold after shutdown. And I did check that all of the wires have continuity between the connectors and the computer.The other strange thing is that the intake makes this sucking noise like its starved for air, and you would think that the IAC would be allowing more air into the engine, but I took it out and it was in the closed position, so I dont know what that means.
Hi Eric,
Well the PCV ended up not working of course, I think its fixed because it will start fine 5 times in a row then all hell breaks loose. So the car has horrible fuel pressure leak down after i shut the car off, like it drops to 20 psi almost immediately. So I put a used fuel rail, and set of injectors on it today with my new fuel pressure regulator to no avail. So I don’t understand where it could be leaking? the fuel pump is new, the fuel pressure regulator is new, and the injectors aren’t leaking, because the leakdown rate was the same with both sets of injectors. so what does that leave me with? The other thing to note is that when it doesnt start its not like it just cranks, it cranks acts like it has started but doesnt start its just as though you got to start the car and it cranks the normal time and the starter cuts off but the rpms are at 0. Also the rpms peak at 1500 when it is cranking just as an FYI i guess. but basically the fuel pressure does not hold after shutdown. And I did check that all of the wires have continuity between the connectors and the computer.The other strange thing is that the intake makes this sucking noise like its starved for air, and you would think that the IAC would be allowing more air into the engine, but I took it out and it was in the closed position, so I dont know what that means.
Thats great! glad to hear that it is running good. The codes will go away once you find your problem. Most likely just a snagged wire. Do you have a multimeter? if so it will really help with finding a bad wire or connection. There should be one large plug on the transmission either on the drivers or pass side. and maybe a couple speed sensors, I would go to that large connector first and work your way up the harness. make sure everything is tight, and make sure all of your grounds are clean and tight. Sounds like you almost got it. I doubt there is an issue in the fuse box, but it never hurts to check. this is where a multimeter is helpful. you can check all the fuses very quick. or even a test light, both are pretty cheap at places like harbor freight.
Thats great! glad to hear that it is running good. The codes will go away once you find your problem. Most likely just a snagged wire. Do you have a multimeter? if so it will really help with finding a bad wire or connection. There should be one large plug on the transmission either on the drivers or pass side. and maybe a couple speed sensors, I would go to that large connector first and work your way up the harness. make sure everything is tight, and make sure all of your grounds are clean and tight. Sounds like you almost got it. I doubt there is an issue in the fuse box, but it never hurts to check. this is where a multimeter is helpful. you can check all the fuses very quick. or even a test light, both are pretty cheap at places like harbor freight.
Would the leak in the injector be noticeable? Cause when I had the fuel rail off yesterday to change the intake gasket, I left it pressurized and they weren’t leaking, and they were actually clean, so I don’t know what its deal is. I was actually thinking the computer is going bad, and I actually have a second one, but I can’t justify taking it to the dealer to have the security programmed so that the engine will start. I just want the car gone at this point to be honest.
Would the leak in the injector be noticeable? Cause when I had the fuel rail off yesterday to change the intake gasket, I left it pressurized and they weren’t leaking, and they were actually clean, so I don’t know what its deal is. I was actually thinking the computer is going bad, and I actually have a second one, but I can’t justify taking it to the dealer to have the security programmed so that the engine will start. I just want the car gone at this point to be honest.
That’s why I asked if he was having issues with the transmission prior to him taking the engine apart. If so, then yeah maybe it does have an internal issue, but if it arose after his “overhaul” then I am willing to bet money that its a loose connector or something. I really think he needs to double check his timing first though, because if the engine is toast then I don’t know if he is willing to dump money into it.
That’s why I asked if he was having issues with the transmission prior to him taking the engine apart. If so, then yeah maybe it does have an internal issue, but if it arose after his “overhaul” then I am willing to bet money that its a loose connector or something. I really think he needs to double check his timing first though, because if the engine is toast then I don’t know if he is willing to dump money into it.
Ok so you mentioned the timing, so I assume that this engine is OHV, When you put it back together did you take into account any timing marks or anything, because it sounds like it might be out of time. The way you describe it running sounds like it could be a tooth off. I don’t know how the engine is set up but can you easily see timing marks? I assume it is a timing chain an not a belt? If you put the engine at top dead center you should have timing marks line up, there are diagrams all over the internet that will help you determine if these marks are lined up properly. Or you could get a timing light if that is an option for you. That way you know if it was in time without even taking anything apart. In regards to the D light on the dash, that is signifying that there is a problem with the Overdrive, or some issue with the transmission.
P0113- Intake air temp circuit
p0743- torque converter clutch
p0755- shift selenoid
p1747- overdrive malfunction
a problem with the air intake sensor will cause it to run poorly as it wont calculate the correct air fuel mixture for the engine. And if it ran better the longer it ran it may be due to it relying on other sensors to calculate the air fuel ratio. SO I would look into the wiring on the air temp circuit. Also I would be sure that the engine and transmission is running 100% before you spend your time on the exhaust manifold.Ok so you mentioned the timing, so I assume that this engine is OHV, When you put it back together did you take into account any timing marks or anything, because it sounds like it might be out of time. The way you describe it running sounds like it could be a tooth off. I don’t know how the engine is set up but can you easily see timing marks? I assume it is a timing chain an not a belt? If you put the engine at top dead center you should have timing marks line up, there are diagrams all over the internet that will help you determine if these marks are lined up properly. Or you could get a timing light if that is an option for you. That way you know if it was in time without even taking anything apart. In regards to the D light on the dash, that is signifying that there is a problem with the Overdrive, or some issue with the transmission.
P0113- Intake air temp circuit
p0743- torque converter clutch
p0755- shift selenoid
p1747- overdrive malfunction
a problem with the air intake sensor will cause it to run poorly as it wont calculate the correct air fuel mixture for the engine. And if it ran better the longer it ran it may be due to it relying on other sensors to calculate the air fuel ratio. SO I would look into the wiring on the air temp circuit. Also I would be sure that the engine and transmission is running 100% before you spend your time on the exhaust manifold.well I would first see if you can track down which wires light up the light on the panel. That is if it isn’t a circuit board design. If you do have individual wires that control the panel lights then test to see if you get any signal with a multimeter. If it is a circuit board see if there are any burns or anything, you might be able to repair it, but not likely, and if not you could most likely find a used one somewhere. Also check number 10 fuse in the passenger side fuse box, its 10 amps, I believe it controls the instrument panel lights.
well I would first see if you can track down which wires light up the light on the panel. That is if it isn’t a circuit board design. If you do have individual wires that control the panel lights then test to see if you get any signal with a multimeter. If it is a circuit board see if there are any burns or anything, you might be able to repair it, but not likely, and if not you could most likely find a used one somewhere. Also check number 10 fuse in the passenger side fuse box, its 10 amps, I believe it controls the instrument panel lights.