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One more question – once I’ve installed everything, how much of a window do I have to get the system vacuumed and charged? Because the reputable local AC charging place is often so busy that you need to make an appointment 2-3 days in advance, so I won’t be able to button the system up and then immediately get it vacuumed/charged.
One more (possibly dumb) question – is it OK to reuse the old clutch cycling (on the accumulator) and high-pressure (on the compressor) switches, or should I really get new ones? I’m wondering if being connected to an AC system that’s been open to the atmosphere for so long may have caused them to deteriorate.
Everything 🙂
I’m replacing literally every part of the system – it was open to the atmosphere for over a year. I think the compressor will come pre-filled with oil.
Cool, thanks for that. I’m reasonably sure that at some point in the past, my AC was converted to R134a – certainly, the info sticker on the radiator crossmember specifies R134a, and the oil that leaked from the compressor when I had it out was flourescent green.
I don’t know Hondas at all, but in my (limited) experience of other cars you probably shouldn’t need to remove the dash to bypass the heater core. Somewhere in your engine bay there should be the lines that carry the coolant to and from the heater core – they probably start close to the water pump or T-stat and end up at the firewall. Once you’ve identified them, you just need to connect them directly to one another.
That said, I’ve only ever experienced the coolant send/return lines as hoses that connect to spigots at the engine end and the firewall end, so they’re easy to disconnect. If yours are hard lines all the way and you can’t get at the disconnects from the engine bay, that’ll obviously be a lot more involved.
It’s worth being certain that the noise is caused by the lifters. When I did the cylinder head R&R on my 4.0L Jeep engine I replaced all the lifters because I was getting a noise that is often identified as lifter tick, but it didn’t go away with the new parts. The engine’s been running just fine for the last year, and I’ve had it suggested that it’s just regular high-miles Jeep valvetrain noise.
I’m still glad I replaced the lifters, though. Seemed silly not to while I had the head off.
Unfortunately you can’t fully test the IAC motor without a dealership-level scan tool. When you cleaned it, did you press the pintle (the “prong” that sticks out of it) into the body of the motor? The FSM warns against doing that, so if you did, you may have caused damage.
Assuming you\’ve given both the IAC motor and the throttle body a decent cleaning, it\’s possible that you may need a new IAC motor. Ideally you want a Mopar one rather than a generic parts-store one. Received wisdom is that Jeeps are very picky about actuators and sensors being OEM rather than aftermarket.
Unfortunately you can’t fully test the IAC motor without a dealership-level scan tool. When you cleaned it, did you press the pintle (the “prong” that sticks out of it) into the body of the motor? The FSM warns against doing that, so if you did, you may have caused damage.
Assuming you\’ve given both the IAC motor and the throttle body a decent cleaning, it\’s possible that you may need a new IAC motor. Ideally you want a Mopar one rather than a generic parts-store one. Received wisdom is that Jeeps are very picky about actuators and sensors being OEM rather than aftermarket.
It does need new bushings – that’s why I removed the control arms in the first place. The problem is that once you’ve unbolted an arm, the axle invariably rolls out of position on that side, so that when you come to replace the arm, the bolt-holes in the new bushing no longer line up with the holes in the arm. So you have to physically manipulate the axle to get all the holes lined up again.
I already know about Matt’s (bleepinjeep) videos, and in fact he refers to this exact problem in his video about replacing UCA bushings, but his approach to realigning the axle with the arm is way beyond what I’m able to achieve working on my own the parking lot of my apartment building. It also looks downright dangerous – see for yourself… (jump to 5’00” – I tried making the video do that automatically but it doesn’t seem to be working)
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUNEnvf5JVw#t=5m00s[/video]
It does need new bushings – that’s why I removed the control arms in the first place. The problem is that once you’ve unbolted an arm, the axle invariably rolls out of position on that side, so that when you come to replace the arm, the bolt-holes in the new bushing no longer line up with the holes in the arm. So you have to physically manipulate the axle to get all the holes lined up again.
I already know about Matt’s (bleepinjeep) videos, and in fact he refers to this exact problem in his video about replacing UCA bushings, but his approach to realigning the axle with the arm is way beyond what I’m able to achieve working on my own the parking lot of my apartment building. It also looks downright dangerous – see for yourself… (jump to 5’00” – I tried making the video do that automatically but it doesn’t seem to be working)
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUNEnvf5JVw#t=5m00s[/video]
I think we’re talking at cross purposes here 🙂 I’m referring to the axle housing physically rotating out of position when a control arm is removed, meaning that when you come to reinstall the arm, you can’t get the bolt back through it because the hole in the bushing doesn’t line up with the hole in the axle or frame mount. When that happens, you need strategies for physically manipulating the axle to get the holes to line up again so that you can get the bolt through.
I think we’re talking at cross purposes here 🙂 I’m referring to the axle housing physically rotating out of position when a control arm is removed, meaning that when you come to reinstall the arm, you can’t get the bolt back through it because the hole in the bushing doesn’t line up with the hole in the axle or frame mount. When that happens, you need strategies for physically manipulating the axle to get the holes to line up again so that you can get the bolt through.
Hi Eric,
Just to clarify, I’m not referring to axle shafts, but the actual axle housing rotating out of alignment after you remove a control arm to replace its bushings.
Hi Eric,
Just to clarify, I’m not referring to axle shafts, but the actual axle housing rotating out of alignment after you remove a control arm to replace its bushings.
That happened to me, so I emailed Wyatt (the admin) directly using support@ericthecarguy.com and including the details of the blocked IP address, and he removed it from their ISP’s blocklist within a day or two.