Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Yes, but do you know why? The nuts are a $14 item, as you’d expect from something from the dealership, but there doesn’t seem to be anything about them that’s unusual or special.
I literally came onto the board to ask if there’s a specific advantage to wearing amber glasses over non-tinted ones (I’ve occasionally wondered why Eric always seems to wear amber ones), and I immediately find this thread 🙂
It’s for a 2003 Ford Escape (UK model, called the Maverick). It has the very common cracked tone ring problem, so no heating is required to remove the old one – it’s already loose. I just need to heat the new ring off the car and then slip it onto the shaft.
The CV shaft is fine, so no point replacing the whole shaft to fix a $7 tone ring. In any event, the CV shafts are discontinued in the UK (Ford stopped selling the Escape/Maverick in Europe in 2003) and I’d have to ship one over from the USA. Cheap shaft, $$$ shipping.
So you reckon I won’t be running the risk of over-heating the new one if I give it a minute or two of propane/butane mix?
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. I finally got it up on the jackstands to take a proper look, and the front right lower control arm is in need of replacement – the ball joint is on its last legs and the bushings are shot. I think I may have found my problem 🙂
The leak is somewhere behind and above the right rear wheel. The fluid runs out of the frame onto the inner edge of the wheelarch and then down the arch to drip onto the ground just behind the wheel. There are no clues as to how I’d access it. It looks like I’d have to pull the rear bumper at least. I can’t even locate the hose anywhere on the frame rail, so I’m presuming it’s running inside the frame rather than attached to the outside of it.
It works 🙂
After proof-of-concept with a bent paper clip, I just cut the wires and soldered them together. I left the cut-off plug connected to the glass latch, but I seriously doubt I will ever touch it again. My chances of finding a replacement latch are almost zero, and it’s really not worth it just to get a working “glass ajar” function back.
Many thanks to everyone for the help!
OK, I’m planning to try this tomorrow. Just so I’m completely clear on this…
I’m going to unplug the harness connector from the glass ajar switch, and then just use a paper clip or piece of wire to connect the two cavities of the harness connector together. The actual ajar switch will no longer be part of the circuit. The computer that monitors the ajar switches will be sending a voltage down the signal line of the harness connector, and it’ll be looped back up the ground line. That’s correct?
Sorry if that sounds painfully obvious, but electrics aren’t my strong point 🙂
Great video as always, but I’d like to throw one minor thing out there – is the advice about turning the heater on when bleeding the cooling system really relevant to modern cars?
It’s obviously an important part of the process in cars which have a heater valve controlling flow through the core, but how many vehicles does that apply to these days? Even my oldest vehicle, a 24-year-old Grand Cherokee, doesn’t use a heater valve – it has 100% coolant flow through the core at all times, and the heater control simply operates the blend air door to regulate the amount of hot air that gets released into the cabin. Are valves still commonly used in mass-market vehicles?
Clearly, turning the heater on full when bleeding the coolant system in vehicles that don’t have a heater valve won’t hurt anything, but it’s also completely unnecessary! Although I suppose you could make the point that if you don’t actually know if your vehicle uses a valve or not, turning the heat on full means you don’t have to waste time finding out (even though it would be useful background information about your car that may help you diagnose a heating problem in the future).
For sure get the FSM. It’s just a bit annoying with Chrysler that the FSM misses out a lot of diagnostic procedures, instead directing you to the relevant diagnostic manual. You really need the FSM *and* the full set of diagnostic manuals for any given vehicle from that era.
EDIT – just for my own interest I did some Googling, and came up with this info about the Renix fuel injection system, which you may find useful: Jeep Renix fuel injection
I would start by getting hold of the Chrysler diagnostic manual (NOT the factory service manual) for the 1990 2.5L Wrangler. There are a few on eBay right now, like this one: 1990 Jeep Wrangler Powertrain Diagnostic Manual
The diagnostic manuals are separate items to the FSM, and go into detail about using DRB scan tools to diagnose problems. They are full of information that isn’t included in the FSMs.
I would warn that the Snap-on scanner may not be the right tool for the job and you may need to use a period Chrysler DRB2 scan tool along with the Jeep/Eagle adapter to get any meaningful data out of the system. I picked up a complete DRB2 kit including the Jeep/Eagle adapter a few years ago on eBay for about $300.
Is it just me, or is there a problem with this video? The soundtrack goes weird at about 17 seconds in, repeating what we’ve already heard. It goes back to normal at 24 seconds.
Is a new engine really worth an extra $35,000? OK, you’ll also be getting an uprated trans etc, but even so, it seems like a very hefty premium to pay to own a non-original DeLorean.
[quote=”brokemechanic3000″ post=157836]From what I read the entire car is N.O.S. and the price of new was to be around $55[/quote]
No, that’s the cost (plus another $10k or so) of a full restoration of an original 1980s DeLorean.
Unless someone else is producing them now because the company I am thinking of has been making new old deloreans for something like 20 years. They are not replicas but the real thing.
Again, no. They’ve only been doing restorations up till now. The replicas will be coming in the next year or so, and they are expected to be priced around $100k.
As I said, I llnked to the news story in my first post. Here is it again: DeLorean replicas are on the way