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OK, disconnected the vacuum feed to the booster check valve, plugged the valve opening, and ran the engine. No hiss when the pedal was pressed.
Looks like you were bang on the money, so many thanks for that. If it needed a clincher, I reconnected the vacuum line and held the pedal down so that it hissed continuously, and then shifted through the gears. The hiss sound changed slightly but noticeably as the engine changed idle speed slightly between P and D and then back to P again.
A new brake booster is in my near future, so one more question if I may: seeing as I have to disconnect and remove the master cylinder to get the booster out, and the master is the factory original with 124,000 miles on it, would I be crazy not to put a new master cylinder in there as well?
OK, disconnected the vacuum feed to the booster check valve, plugged the valve opening, and ran the engine. No hiss when the pedal was pressed.
Looks like you were bang on the money, so many thanks for that. If it needed a clincher, I reconnected the vacuum line and held the pedal down so that it hissed continuously, and then shifted through the gears. The hiss sound changed slightly but noticeably as the engine changed idle speed slightly between P and D and then back to P again.
A new brake booster is in my near future, so one more question if I may: seeing as I have to disconnect and remove the master cylinder to get the booster out, and the master is the factory original with 124,000 miles on it, would I be crazy not to put a new master cylinder in there as well?
[quote=”brokemechanic3000″ post=76452]
Try getting some pressure on the puller[/quote]That was really my issue, though. I couldn’t get pressure on the puller because the shaft had already been loosened from the hub splines, and when I tried tightening the screw, I could see (and hear) the shaft compressing.
I guess I should just have kept turning the screw until all the “compressability” in the axleshaft had been taken up and the puller started exerting force on the hub again? That wouldn’t damage the shaft or the diff?
[quote=”brokemechanic3000″ post=76452]
Try getting some pressure on the puller[/quote]That was really my issue, though. I couldn’t get pressure on the puller because the shaft had already been loosened from the hub splines, and when I tried tightening the screw, I could see (and hear) the shaft compressing.
I guess I should just have kept turning the screw until all the “compressability” in the axleshaft had been taken up and the puller started exerting force on the hub again? That wouldn’t damage the shaft or the diff?
Thankyou! I spent some time at the kitchen table with the press kit and one of the new joints, experimenting with different arrangements of cups and tubes for getting the old joint out. I was getting confused, because I was trying to use a removal tube as well as receiving tube, plus the two cups that go on each end, and there wasn’t anywhere near enough space between the jaws of the C-frame to do that. Eventually I realised that I only needed the receiving tube and the removal cup, which fits over the stud and presses against the joint’s body.
Thankyou! I spent some time at the kitchen table with the press kit and one of the new joints, experimenting with different arrangements of cups and tubes for getting the old joint out. I was getting confused, because I was trying to use a removal tube as well as receiving tube, plus the two cups that go on each end, and there wasn’t anywhere near enough space between the jaws of the C-frame to do that. Eventually I realised that I only needed the receiving tube and the removal cup, which fits over the stud and presses against the joint’s body.
Thankyou for the clarification B)
I’ve been looking at lots of YT videos about balljoint replacement, and they all seem to set up the press so that it’s applying pressure to the stud. That just seems to carry the risk of pushing the stud up into the joint body rather than breaking the whole joint loose.
Thankyou for the clarification B)
I’ve been looking at lots of YT videos about balljoint replacement, and they all seem to set up the press so that it’s applying pressure to the stud. That just seems to carry the risk of pushing the stud up into the joint body rather than breaking the whole joint loose.
The service manuals for both of my cars (Jeeps) say nothing at all about lubricating the head bolts before installing them. One bolt needs special sealant because it goes through the water jacket, but that’s all.
I haven’t read all that many service manuals, but I’ve never seen any which state that head bolts should be lubed before installing. In Eric’s video, he offers it very much as a personal tip – “This is what I like to do” – rather than something that’s standard procedure whatever the vehicle.
Thanks for the info though, if oiling the threads actually helps, I might as well do it.
The service manuals for both of my cars (Jeeps) say nothing at all about lubricating the head bolts before installing them. One bolt needs special sealant because it goes through the water jacket, but that’s all.
I haven’t read all that many service manuals, but I’ve never seen any which state that head bolts should be lubed before installing. In Eric’s video, he offers it very much as a personal tip – “This is what I like to do” – rather than something that’s standard procedure whatever the vehicle.
Thanks for the info though, if oiling the threads actually helps, I might as well do it.