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Probably worn break pads. There is a metal clip that will rub against the rotor when you are driving in reverse. Hope that helps.
Probably worn break pads. There is a metal clip that will rub against the rotor when you are driving in reverse. Hope that helps.
I just finished my mk3 issues. The person before you had to of taken out the dash and removed the warning beeper for the low oil pressure. I wanted to shoot myself in the face while I was driving. Your oil pickup is most likely clogged or your high oil pressure sensor is bad. High as in high rpm. Also, never drive the car short distances in the cold… The oil doesn’t get hot enough to burn off condensation. It clogs the pcv and gives the oil a nice white milky color. My thermostat was stuck open and this was a huge problem. Honestly, sell the car. I know you just got it, but my dad put 2 grand on mine… I bought a 86 Toyota Camry to replace it. Problem free, other than one minor issue. Just sell it, save yourself the money and frustration. You will be thankful you did. I got rid of mine due to the floor panels being nothing but rust… I would check yours if I were you. Also check the wheel strut area in the front… expect to see a huge rust hole. Oh, but if it has the original axles, they might be worth more than the car… if you live in the Va. Area, I could sell you my mk3 lol
I just finished my mk3 issues. The person before you had to of taken out the dash and removed the warning beeper for the low oil pressure. I wanted to shoot myself in the face while I was driving. Your oil pickup is most likely clogged or your high oil pressure sensor is bad. High as in high rpm. Also, never drive the car short distances in the cold… The oil doesn’t get hot enough to burn off condensation. It clogs the pcv and gives the oil a nice white milky color. My thermostat was stuck open and this was a huge problem. Honestly, sell the car. I know you just got it, but my dad put 2 grand on mine… I bought a 86 Toyota Camry to replace it. Problem free, other than one minor issue. Just sell it, save yourself the money and frustration. You will be thankful you did. I got rid of mine due to the floor panels being nothing but rust… I would check yours if I were you. Also check the wheel strut area in the front… expect to see a huge rust hole. Oh, but if it has the original axles, they might be worth more than the car… if you live in the Va. Area, I could sell you my mk3 lol
[quote=”ridinred24″ post=45450]Its tricky if you have never been inside a manual transmission before. Its not something I would reccomend a DIY’er do himself.
With a high mileage vehicle I would suggest you look for a used trans from a salvage yard. Then you can tinker with your old one if they dont require a core :P[/quote]
It may require that in the future. It seems to only grind when I am at a higher rpm at second gear. So I guess no gunning it until I hit third. :p I went to my salvage yard today, he didn’t have any parts, but another yard did. Thanks for the info.
[quote=”ridinred24″ post=45450]Its tricky if you have never been inside a manual transmission before. Its not something I would reccomend a DIY’er do himself.
With a high mileage vehicle I would suggest you look for a used trans from a salvage yard. Then you can tinker with your old one if they dont require a core :P[/quote]
It may require that in the future. It seems to only grind when I am at a higher rpm at second gear. So I guess no gunning it until I hit third. :p I went to my salvage yard today, he didn’t have any parts, but another yard did. Thanks for the info.
[quote=”IAhawkeye osg” post=45423]Nice ride 😀 i wana say 500? lol Do you have any plans for it?[/quote]
I plan on patching all the rust and using it as a daily driver. I paid 875. It is the original owner. He had a huge book full of his receipts and could tell me exactly when he had anything done to it.[quote=”IAhawkeye osg” post=45423]Nice ride 😀 i wana say 500? lol Do you have any plans for it?[/quote]
I plan on patching all the rust and using it as a daily driver. I paid 875. It is the original owner. He had a huge book full of his receipts and could tell me exactly when he had anything done to it.[quote=”ridinred24″ post=45394]Your probably looking at at least $500 in labor plus 150-300 in parts. If its only grinding into 3rd then you may have issues with the trans itself. A clutch is more likely to cause issues when you arent moving (1st and reverse)
I would reccomend draining your maunual trans fluid and straining it through a paint strainer. Check for any brass or steel shavings which could indicate synchro/gear or bearing issues[/quote]
Thanks. Since it is most likely the synchro/gear, how difficult is it to fix that issue? Thanks
[quote=”ridinred24″ post=45394]Your probably looking at at least $500 in labor plus 150-300 in parts. If its only grinding into 3rd then you may have issues with the trans itself. A clutch is more likely to cause issues when you arent moving (1st and reverse)
I would reccomend draining your maunual trans fluid and straining it through a paint strainer. Check for any brass or steel shavings which could indicate synchro/gear or bearing issues[/quote]
Thanks. Since it is most likely the synchro/gear, how difficult is it to fix that issue? Thanks
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=45021]It may not be the axle. Actually tires are more of an issue when it comes to vibrations. You might try rotating the tires to see if the vibration changes or goes away.[/quote]
Thanks, I Will keep that in mind. After all of the effort, I went to get my car inspected, and they found a small “small” rust hole. I took up the carpet to see how “small” and pretty much all of the floor boards are rusted. Anywhere I apply pressure, BAM a new hole… the frame is starting, and the engine is dying, so I am getting a different car very soon. Thanks everyone for helping me try and solve my problem. 🙂 looking at an 86 Toyota Camry. No rust a and a standard. 😀
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=45021]It may not be the axle. Actually tires are more of an issue when it comes to vibrations. You might try rotating the tires to see if the vibration changes or goes away.[/quote]
Thanks, I Will keep that in mind. After all of the effort, I went to get my car inspected, and they found a small “small” rust hole. I took up the carpet to see how “small” and pretty much all of the floor boards are rusted. Anywhere I apply pressure, BAM a new hole… the frame is starting, and the engine is dying, so I am getting a different car very soon. Thanks everyone for helping me try and solve my problem. 🙂 looking at an 86 Toyota Camry. No rust a and a standard. 😀
Well apparently my axle is too short. The appropriate axle length is 22″ the one on my car is 21 1/4″ but would this cause all of the vibration?
Well apparently my axle is too short. The appropriate axle length is 22″ the one on my car is 21 1/4″ but would this cause all of the vibration?
Well to say the least, I now can install the driver “left” side axle in about 30 minutes… I went through 3 axles from AutoZone. I finally said enough is enough. Put the old one back on, and am saving 280 for a quality one from raxles. Thanks for all of the help. Lesson here, you have to buy quality axles for any VW MK3. Otherwise… well your floor boards might rattle out.