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You said you took a file to clean but not to bare metal. I live where they salt the roads and rust and corrosion are prevelant. It is sometimes hard to tell if they are cleaned well. Most of the time when I use a wire wheel I can make it look really clean but it turns out it’s not. Use your file or the edge of a cut off wheel to get it to shiney metal.everything the clip touches should be shiny. Use silicone brake lube on clips.pads should slide freely back and forth in bracket. I think you need to clean better.
A coil could get hot and stop working, but that would not cause the engine to stop in this manner. It would most likely misfire. There are 2 possibilities you can check first. First problem could be the crank position sensor. Many times if this fails it won’t trip a fault. They can be tested, but they are cheap and easy to replace so you might just go ahead and replace it. No harm no foul if it doesn’t work out. Another possibility is the ignition relay could be malfunctioning. This can be found behind the glove box. If you remove the glove box the relay is the 3rd one from the left.swap it out for another “identical” relay and see if that works. If none of these 2 things don’t fix your problem we could go somewhere else from there.
There are 2 cooling fans on this. One is switched to the temperature and the other is switched to the AC. The AC fan should turn on Everytime the AC is turned on. I believe this fan is on the passenger side. Your engine fan seems to be working properly. The AC fan switch needs to have a signal confirming there is pressure from the AC system. I suspect you either don’t have the proper pressure in the system or the pressure switch is faulty. First check the fuses.Check the No. 1 (20 A ) and No. 4 (20 A ) fuses in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 14 (10 A ) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Richard covered everything to check. If there is nothing obvious found on your next inspection, it might be a good idea to just replace the brake hoses. They can at times be intermittent.
An update: I am now speaking directly to the mechanic doing the repairs. When they sent the right side head to the machine sho, it was not warped. But they did find that the valves needed attention. So the engine is out of the van and they will machine both heads and do a valve job and still give us the price they requested minus $400 for our inconvenience. Looking like a winning situation.
Low compression test will indicate that there is a leak somewhere. If it’s low there’s a possibility that the head gasket is leaking coolant into the cylinders. This usually shows up on your pressure test also. The fact that you are continuously loosing coolant indicates you are leaking somewhere.
It is extremely important that you use the recommended viscosity for this engine. The oil pressure should be checked with a mechanical oil pressure gage. Many times if oil maintenance was neglected there could be a sludge problem. Having enough oil pressure is imperative for this system to work.
Probably 2 seperate issues. The new map can certainly be bad, but bad wiring or connectors could also cause this. A scanner can monitor signal during a jiggle test to help diagnose this.
The fuel pump could have a bad relay. Replace or swap the fuel pump relay with a known good one. If that doesn’t fix it, check the primary circuit at relay box. If you have voltage continually on the primary side the vehicle thinks it’s running or cranking. This can be caused by a bad or shorted ignition switch or PCM. Depending on the vehicle the ingnition module, crank or cam sensors will report that the engine is or is not running. The first thing to check though is the fuel pump relay itself.Just because there is no restrictions at the catylitic converter doesn’t mean the converter is good. The code is reporting that the converter isn’t doing it’s job and it’s not eliminating raw gasses. As stated above, that doesn’t necessarily mean the converter is bad, but it was running more raw fuel through it due to the misfire. The misfire along with the current code indicates that the converter was damaged by the misfire. That being said, just because that is the most likely fault doesn’t mean that you go ahead and change the converter. You should check all of the conditions listed by @Richard Kirshey first. You can use a thermal gun and record the temperature in front and back of the converter. It should be hotter in the rear. Using a scanner to read the downstream O2 sensor activity would be a great way to diagnose this also. But the converter is the first suspect.
First I would clean everything around anything coolant related. Add some dye and do a pressure test.this will determine if there is an external leaks. Then do a compression test to check for a bad head gasket. If you still haven’t found the problem, drive it for awhile and try and maneuver something up the air conditioning condensate drain and check for dye in the moisture you pull from the tube. If there is dye,
The heater core is leaking.So now we know it is a fuel delivery problem. Fuel is getting to the rails but not through the injectors. It’s a good idea to check the regulator but I’m thinking electrical problem. Heat can effect electronics. I don’t know the schematics for this specific vehicle, but if you can find them you can test for proper voltage to the injectors. A mood light would be very helpful in this case. There is power supplied to each injector, then the ECM grounds that circuit to activate the injector. I’m guessing that whatever sourses the power to the injectors or supplies the ground is fairing when hot. With a stethoscope listen to the injectors while cranking during fault mode. You should hear them clicking as you crank. If you don’t, then follow the circuit that supplies power to the injectors. Then follow the circuit that supplies the signal to the injectors. You may find a bad wire or connector at these points. Pay special attention to the connector at the ECM.
T{ determine if it’s a fuel problem hook a fuel pressure gage up when problem happens or spray starting fluid into throttle body while cranking. If it fires you have a fuel delivery problem.
You might want to take it back again and insist it be diagnosed and adjusted correctly. Of you make the steering wheel straight on your own, it may still be out of alignment, and you can go through a pair of tires in a hurry. Another option is to take it into a different alignment shop and hopefully get it done right the first time. It may cost you again, but at least you’ll know it’s properly aligned.