[Martin]

Yeah, thanks for the advice, I checked it out and it was plugged in, in the groove on the timing cover just how I left it. I didn’t see any corrosion on the ends and am figuring I’m going to have to pull it apart again and change the sensor. It’s bloody stupid how they make it so you have to take the crank pulley off again.

[Martin]

[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=149139]Great Job. Glad you found the problem.[/quote]

Thank you, I am also.

[Martin]

Just finished up installing the new to the car ecu, started right up. Went to the local u-pull it and after wandering around for hours checking Honda’s for the right one and not finding it I called another traditional yard and they had it. $80 no return or exchange, almost didn’t buy it but decided my time I have spent diagnosing it was worth at least that.

To anyone else that finds this thread while searching for reasons why their Honda accord won’t start, here’s the symptoms again.

Car started having starting issues, would turn over but not always start. Finally it wouldn’t start at all, cel remained on at all times, tho it was never on till the car wouldn’t start at all.

1.Checked all fuses, grounds etc. All good. Tried jumping the service port to get some codes, cel wouldn’t flash it just remained lit.

2. Checked, re-soldered the mfr even tho it looked fine, replaced it, same issue.

3. Checked for spark at all plugs, had good spark, eliminating spark.

4. Checked ignition switch, had continuity at the correct terminals when it should.

5. Poured gasoline into the cylinders, car would run for a second, started checking for fuel. No power to fuel pump, ran battery and ground to pump it would run but car still wouldn’t start.

6. Pulled ecu from passenger kick panel, removed cover and found a capacitor had fried itself as well as part of the circuit board.

7. Spend all day tracking the correct one down, install it, profit.

Attachments:

• IMG_20151012_182704_01.jpg

[Martin]

Figured I would pop the computer and have a look see anyways…

Edit-whatever reason, picture won’t upload. Burnt capacitor. Heading to pull it yard now with high hopes.

[Martin]

Anyone have further suggestions? All my testing has basically ended with learning the cel stays on, trying to pull codes doesn’t do anything either, the cel just remains on. Not getting power to the fuel pump, supplying power the pump works but the car still doesn’t start but does with gas poured into cylinders via spark plug holes. Replaced mfr and resoldered original with no change. Ignition switch has continuity when testing so I assume it’s good?

Really could use some help getting this car back on the road.

Thanks

[Martin]

I checked the ignition switch continuity following this
https://youtu.be/4S0
Everything worked as should, if that eliminates the ignition switch, I really don’t know where to head next in diagnosing.

[Martin]

Before I have up for the evening, I supplied power to the fuel pump directly and tried starting the car, no go. Turned over but would start, should it have or? I assumed it would start.

[Martin]

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=148870]

Please keep us updated on what you find.[/quote]

Yes, I have watched your videos several times, thanks for them. Unfortunately I am just not having great luck with this so far. I thought the ignition switch failure would not trip the cel? The light was never on when driving but now it doesn’t go off when turning the key. I tried pulling codes by jumping the service plug as you showed only the light remains on, never flashing. The only thing that flashes is the abs light.

Thanks again for the response.

[Martin]

Finally got access to the fuel pump, no power getting to the pump. Fuses are good, main relay is good.. Anyone have ideas? Thinking ecu at this point but just guessing.

[Martin]

No, I’ll check that now.

Edit- I don’t see a Schrader valve. Looked along the rail and don’t see one.

[Martin]

Yeah, I have swapped the relay as well as soldered the original, no change. Reading further, seems I may have just checked voltage at the sending unit..

[Martin]

No, it has fuel… wish it didn’t lol.
If the picture posted, I checked for power at the pump. The yellow/blue has 12v with the key on, the green/red has 1v with key on and the black/yellow has nothing regardless of key position. Trying to find out what they are supposed to have.

Thanks

Attachments:

• IMG_20151007_163911_01.jpg

[Martin]

Been still trying to figure out what the issue is. I removed the main relay and resoldered all the contacts, didn’t change anything. Checked all fuses again, they are fine.

Guessing it’s on to the fuel pump? It’s what I originally thought but have heard and read that Honda fuel pumps rarely go bad. I’ll Google around and see how to test it.

[Martin]

So today I checked for spark, sprayed some starting fluid in the throttle body and the car sputtered for a second, pulled the plugs and sprayed a bit of gas in then put plugs back in, fired up for a second. Assuming sparks not the issue.

What’s next? Check for power at the fuel pump? Whatever is happening, turn the key on and the check engine light never goes off as it use to do. I read where you turn the key on and you should hear the pump prime, 2 seconds later the cel should go off and you should hear the relay click. All that happens here is turn the key on, lights come on and that’s it. Trying to start it, it turns over but nothing else.

[Martin]

[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=148457]Begin by using starting fluid. Spray some into the intake (throttle body). If the engine hits look for fuel related issues. If it does not hit then perhaps ignition issues will be at fault. You can remove a spark plug, reattach the wire and prop the thread of the plug on the metal part of the engine while it is being cranked looking for spark.[/quote]

I will do that tomorrow, thank you for the response.

[Author]

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