[Dave Tidman]

Tom,
Thank you for your service.

Usually, the labor cost is determined by book time. You may be able to find someone doing side work that may do it cheaper. Since I’m not around Nashville, I have no idea who would do that int he Nashville area.

[Dave Tidman]

The first thing I would do is a full scan of the car (all the modules) and correct any issues found there. If there are no issues found in the scan, you likely need to do a parasitic drain test.

[Dave Tidman]

If the CEL is off, the scanner should show nothing. Try to get the freeze frame if the code sets again. The test for the p0141 is run right at startup. Cats would be p0420 p0430, but if you have a p0141 the cat test may not be run.

[Dave Tidman]

Check it loaded if you can. Sometimes unloaded voltage measurements are unreliable.

For freeze frame, that is a snapshot of the data when the code is set. There should be a option on the scanner to read the freeze frame data. I’m not familiar wit the snap on so I can’t give you further pointers. In the freeze frame, look for heater circuit values.

[Dave Tidman]

Was the voltage measurement loaded (still connected to the sensor) or unloaded?

Any chance to look at the freeze frame to see what the ecm is detecting?

In general, a P0141 is looking at 3 things: short, open or excess current.

[Dave Tidman]

What are your short and long term fuel trims?

[Dave Tidman]

Did you get a notice from Hyundai, and are they extending any warranties based on this TSB?

I would ask the dealer what specific prep work they do. Reading the tsb I didn’t see any specific rust removal prep work.

These are always difficult. In theory, cutting off the oxygen and moisture from the rusty area should stop the rust, but they need to be perfect to accomplish this.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

[Dave Tidman]

I would check your timing chain guides to see if they cracked.

[Dave Tidman]

When it does not start, does it just crank, or does it seem like it wants to start and then dies?

Could be a number of things. When is is not starting, you need to make sure you have spark, air and fuel. Beyond that a scanner with live data will help. Sometimes things like a bad coolant temp sensor can cause the IAC to choke off the air. it would be good to note the data values for sensors when it will not start and then when it will, that may lead you to a solution.

[Dave Tidman]

We are looking at fuel, air, spark, compression and timing. We can probably rule out the last two since it can start (assuming it runs well when it does start).

I would start by checking the fuel pressure. Sometimes if the fuel pump is weak it will eventually build enough pressure to start the car. Probably next would be spark.

Check this link:

https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems/crank-no-start

[Dave Tidman]

When you do a scan for codes, do you do a full scan or just the OBD engine parameters?
I would think the stabilitrak would set a code you cannot get from OBDII.

If you do a full scan, what codes do you get? What code was related to the Cam position sensor?

[Dave Tidman]

what was the code you got from the scan? What are your ST and LT fuel trims?

[Dave Tidman]

Electrical problems can have many causes. You need to get a wiring diagram and trace through the circuit to find the issue. It can be time consuming, so be warned.

You could pull the bulbs out and see if it still happens.

[Dave Tidman]

I’m not familiar with the Hyundai system, but I don’t think replacing the brakes will solve your hill holder and ABS issues. I would get the car completely (all the modules) scanned to see what codes there are in the ABS system. Remember, if you repair something and new problems crop up, it highly likely something you did, carefully recheck your work.

[Dave Tidman]

by the control side, it is the signal that tells the clutch to engage. So basically the voltage that engages the magnetic coil. So when it misbehaves, check to make sure there is voltage (while loaded) across the coil.

[Author]

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