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Have you verified the wiring between the wheel speed sensor and the ECU/ABS (I’m not sure on Mazdas where this terminates)?
You will likely need to find a wiring diagram to sort this out. I would start with what is controlling the relay that is clicking and go from there. I could be a number of different things causing this.
Since you have done all the swaptronics and the problem didn’t move, it is time to go deeper. Could be either compression, timing, or some sort of wiring issue that is intermittent. If possible, look at the freeze frame data to see if that gives you any clues.
Did you just replace the shoes, or did you also replace the hardware? You might want to start with checking the adjustment to be sure it didn’t get out a wack somehow. Beyond that, probably need to pull the drums and take a look.
I would first try to resolve the electrical power issue. If your voltage is going low, that can cause all sorts of issues with the sensors and ECM (and other control modules).
You may need wiring diagrams to figure that out.
Good luck!
First question, any codes? What tests are leading you to replace sensors?
I might try starting it by spraying starting fluid in the intake and see if it starts. That should give you some direction.
Is the pulling the fuse trick repeatable?
It could be the slave, but I think that is a low probability. If a slave does not work, it likely has to come apart again to see what is up.
There are a number of things that can cause clutch slippage. However, since you just had a new clutch put in, can you take it back to the shop that did the work. A properly installed new clutch should not slip.
What engine does the car have?
If you have not checked your coolant level, make sure it is full.
If you have a scanner with live data, it could be useful to see what the ECT is when the temp gauge is misbehaving. Also, the code for this problem may be a 2 trip code so that may be why it does not register immediately. It could also be an intermittent issue somewhere, those can be a bear to track down.
You can test an ECT sensor with water, a thermometer and an ohm meter. There are tables available that give the temperature/resistance relationship.
Good luck, let us know how it goes…
Glad you got it fixed. Don’t beat yourself up too much, I think everyone here has learned a lesson like yours.
I’m assuming you checked all the sensors and harnesses that were near the motor mount you changed. I’m not sure if this helps, but here is a list of the inputs to the idle air system:
Sensor Input
Camshaft position sensor
Mass air flow sensor
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Ignition switch
Throttle position sensor
Park/neutral position (PNP) switch
Air conditioner switch
Power steering oil pressure switch
Battery
Vehicle speed sensor
Ambient air temperature switch
Intake air temperature sensornote this is from the 2003 Frontier FSM, but I don’t think the VG33E has changed much since then.
Are you able to look at live data and see what the desired idle is? Can you look at freeze frame for the P0100 to see what may be out of spec?
Good Luck
Noises are difficult to diagnose over the internet, you sort of have to hear it.
Have you looked this over?
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car
If you safely and securely put the car on jackstands and accelerate, does the noise still happen? Have you checked the strut bearings (if your car has struts)?
good luck