Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
This may also be helpful
The TSB is not for your car specifically, but they are probably common parts. It is a simple thing to try.
I’m not really familiar with BMW/minis, but this sounds a lot like the Chrysler/Dodge TIPM issues. I would check for corrosion in the connections (aka the green crusties). Good Luck.
The C0277 is a circuit code for the brake pedal position sensor. Could be the sensor or the wiring. I think once the C0277 is resolved the C0561 (ABS disabled) is likely to resolve itself.
Intermittent electrical issues are so much fun. 🙂
Do you know what that relay controls? That should give some direction, I would guess that it somehow supplies power to some of the sensors since the tach does not move. Beyond that, you will likely need a wiring diagram to figure out if the control side of the relay is working or not. Also, is there another relay you can swap in place to see if the problem moves with the relay?
It may say on your invoice what the code was. I was just wondering because they recommended coils and an intake leak and I was wondering if they were just loading the parts cannon to try to fix an issue.
What part did they replace to fix the original issue?
Just out of curiosity, what was the code for the check engine light you brought the car in for originally?
Was the code fixed before they gave you this list?This may not be a direct correlation, but here is what I did after someone stole my cat converter and cut the rear brake line causing the master to empty. This was on a nissan frontier with ABS.
After the replacement of the brake line:
disconnected the battery (nissan recommends this for vehicles with ABS)
opened all the bleeders
added fluid to the master and gravity bled all 4 corners
When that was clear, went back and individually bled 1 corner at a time.
reconnected battery.
pumped up brakes to ensure pressure, gently tested brakes for feel.
went into a empty gravel parking lot, several hard stops to get the abs to engageThat seemed to do the trick for me. YMMV on a Hyundai
There seems to be something deeper going on than just the head unit, given all the other things that stopped working. I would suggest a full scan of all the modules in the car. Could be as simple as a blown fuse (although then you need to figure out why the fuse blew) or could be bad module or a number of things in between. Following good troubleshooting practices will lead you to the solution.
From reading the symptoms, one thing I would try and removing the accessory drive belt and making sure everything spins freely. It’s possible something is siezed given you lost power steering and had a battery light. You could try to start it and run for a short time.
Other than that, it’s back to the basics: fuel, air, spark and timing.
I’m not sure if you have seen this, but it may help
The code is because the ecm can’t determine if the leak detection pump is running. It is most likely the pump or the wiring between the ecm and the pump. A bidirectional scan tool would be helpful, but probably not available to you.
Here is a good summary:
This takes a lot of patience. Go too fast and you can strip the threads in the cylinder head, and then you are in a world of hurt.
On your vanity light measurement, since those circuits are unloaded with the lights off (assuming the lights are the only thing on the circuit), any measurement will be inaccurate.
In a word, no.
Watch this ETCG video for an explanation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8f2fcbTh5yw
Was the thermostat an OEM? I’ve run into a number of junk aftermarket thermostats. If you are getting bubbles, sounds like you need to bleed the system again. Does the thermostat have a jiggle valve and it it in the correct orientation?
Just because it’s new doesn’t mean it’s good.
I would recheck the work you did before jumping to a head gasket.