[Dave Tidman]

Any codes? Have you done a power balance test to isolate the misfire to a cylinder or is it a random misfire?

[Dave Tidman]

It’s hard to give something exact, but here are a few things. BTW, what is the temperature of the air coming out of the vents? What are your high and low side pressures when running the AC?

I assume you put the correct amount of refrigerant and oil in the system. If you are not sure of that, it’s a good place to start since some AC systems are very sensitive to how much refrigerant is added. Also, how are your blend doors working?

[Dave Tidman]

Since the programs in the ECU are stored in non-volatile flash memory, I don’t think a re flash would help. If there was an issue, the ECM would usually throw a code that says something like ECU error.

P0420 is a catalyst efficiency code. Given the vehicle sat for a couple of years, I would tale a look at the upstream and downstream O2 sensors and do the other P0420 diagnostics. See this ETCG link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VZ5K8n5jj0

[Dave Tidman]

The strut mount shouldn’t impact the alignment in most cases.

[Dave Tidman]

There area few additional things that you may need to check. Is your upstream O2 sensor working correctly. If it is sluggish taht may cause this code. Also, you may need to check the fuel injectors, a slow injector may inject too much fuel. Also, if the coolant temp sensor is bad, it could cause more fuel to be out into the system.

Good luck, let us know what you find.

[Dave Tidman]

What was the actual code you got for the crank sensor (P0XXX code)? Just because the code says crank sensor in the description does not mean you definitely have a bad crank sensor. Codes give you direction, not answers.

Given you ran out of coolant, I would do a block test to make sure the head gasket is OK. You may have had enough coolant to cover the coolant temp sensor, but not enough to pump through the system.

For question 4, do not ever put a stop leak product into the cooling system. Sure it will plug leaks, but it may also plug small passages in the cooling system.

[Dave Tidman]

You could try it if it is simple to get to. Otherwise I would go through a diagnostic procedure to see if the PVC is working correctly.

[Dave Tidman]

When you pulled that fuse, you may have woken up some of the modules and caused an increase in current draw.

I prefer this method of doing a parasitic draw test.

[Dave Tidman]

This all depends on your comfort level. This video is a good one on the job

[Dave Tidman]

One thing to make sure is that your compressor can handle the increased workload on 134a.

See this for details:

Convert Auto R12 system to R134a

[Dave Tidman]

if you are using a non chlorinated brake cleaner, it should be fine.

[Dave Tidman]

My only suggestion would be to safely lift the vehicle and see if you can find the source of the vibration. There are a number of things that could cause vibration (CV shafts, output shaft bearings, bushings, etc.). If you are getting bad vibrations at 1700-2K RPM, that may point away from the clutch. Just be safe while diagnosing the issue.

[Dave Tidman]

You will need a wiring diagram to figure this out. My first thought would be to pull the fuse for the brake lights and see if it still happens. You could also do a visual inspection under the TIPM to check for corrosion. Otherwise, it is going through the diagnostic process to figure out what is common and figure out where the issue is.

[Dave Tidman]

You can find the FSMs for nissans here:

Nissan Service Manuals

[Dave Tidman]

Are you close to a chain parts store, they may be able to scan the car and give you the codes. You still will need to do a diagnosis if it is a wheel speed sensor circuit code, since it could be the sensor, or it could be the wiring.

[Author]

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