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A couple of things, one could be the idle is too low and the other is the timing may be slightly off.
Did you get any codes? I would think with a bad MAF you would either get a rich or lean code.
Have you tried unplugging the MAF to see if that smootheds it out? Not sure about subarus, but a lot of ECMs will put in a substituted value if the MAF is unplugged.
I can’t directly recommend any after market converters. If you are going aftermarket, make sure it is CARB compliant (Californis Ait Resources Board). THerea re many sold that are not CARB compliant.
Make sure you do all the testing before condemning the converter.
My Nephew had an issue like this in his 2008 caliber, the camber was out on 1 side. After diagnosis, tuned out to be a bad wheel bearing. However the bushings were on the verge of being trash,so we replaced the rear control arms with adjustable ones. SO check those 2 items and go from there.
Just my opinion, but I would not run it until everything is either accounted for or ruled out. Solid things bouncing around the valve train can lead to disaster.
Have you cheeked the vacuum going to the booster?
Not sure if you have seen this, but a good list of things to check
First of all, sorry for the loss of your husband. Thank goodness you and your passenger are OK.
If I recall correctly, the rear brakes on the accord of that year are drum brakes. Either the brake line or the wheel cylinder are leaking. Once you find that out, determine what part to replace and then do a complete bleed of the system. Also, given you have had one failure, I would give the whole rear brake system a once over to see if anything else need replacing.
Good ETCG video on drum brakes:
Given the paperclip test you ran, it seems like the load side (at least from the switch to the fans) is OK. I would start looking at the control side using a wiring diagram and live data. Not real familiar with hondas, but I would check that the coolant temp is being read correctly by the ECM and the see if the signal is sent to close the fan relay. IF that is good, you just need to chase it down the load side to wee where the continuity is lost.
Good Luck.
If your LT fuel trim is between -10 and +10, I wouldn’t worry about it. You will never achieve a LT fuel trim of 0. Your ECM will throw a code when it’s time to start worrying.
for Q1, valve clearance is not much of a factor, but it is important in Hobdas to keep then adjusted to avoid other issues. On the second question, the plugs are probably OK.
I would look at your fuel trims with live data, that will tell you which way it is running. Do you have an codes from the ecm?
Here is a good short video on fuel trims: