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can you tell us the make, year and model?
It’s hard to diagnose noises over the internet. It could be some issue with the new clutch install (did you do a flywheel also or just the clutch), or it could be an issue with a bearing in the transmission. You could try putting it on jackstands (be really careful) and try to further isolate the noise.
let us know if you find anything.
I would do a block test to see if there is a head gasket leak.
Bad news is it sounds like you have a bent valve. You could do a leakdown test to verify. If a few are bent, you may be able to get the head rebuilt by a machine shop.
It’s probably time for a valve cover gasket.
is it a crank – no start or a no crank – no start?
If it was badly overheated, I would be looking for a new engine if you want to keep the car. It’s likely the head is warped and the deck may also be damaged.
Misfires could be fuel, spark or timing. Any particular pattern to when the CEL comes on (after a hard pull, sitting at a light, etc)? Is it only P030X codes? Any P0300 codes?
Looks like you may have addressed the fuel situation (however, if you used aftermarket injectors…). That leaves spark and timing. I would give the coils a good visual inspection for signs of carbon tracking. Also, if you have not changed the spark tube seals, there could be oil in the spark plug tube and that could cause a misfire. If you are getting P0300s it may need a deeper look into the timing. Not a toyota guy, so not sure how their VVT works. Also check your plug gap, if you have not changed them ever, it may be time.
Good luck. Hopefully you can catch it when it is not behaving and figure it out.
600 mA seems high. What circuit is it? You need to be sure you didn’t accidentally activate a module.
They do make them, but I’m not sure how you ensure the connectors are correct. Here is an example:
Otherwise, it’s probably a 2 wire circuit, if you are good with wiring/soldering/heat shrink it may not be too difficult to extend them yourself.
Here is the FSM section for the 2005 Altima, The refrigerant line diagram shows both a high and low side service port.
see if this helps:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Altima%2F2005%2FATC.pdf
April 5, 2022 at 9:35 am in reply to: R56 TAILGATE ICON LIGHT COMES ON @ STOP & GOES OFF WHEN MOVING AGAIN ? #994063Is there any correlation with the indicator being on and the brake pedal being depressed? You likely have some sort of short or rub through in a harness. You need a wiring diagram and may need to trace the circuit back and do a good visual inspection of the harnesses.
Probably the best thing to do now is get a wiring diagram. I’m not familiar with the model, but these days it no longer a simple circuit. It likely goes to the BCM that then sends a message to the cluster to turn the indicator on. Have you done a full scan to see if there are any BCM or instrument cluster codes?
An oldie but a goodie to watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VZ5K8n5jj0
A scanner with live data may help.
What codes are you getting? this may point to where the hose is supposed to go.
There are usually LED ballasts that need to be installed between the bulb and the existing harness. You may need to find a spot to mount them. Otherwise, it’s fairly easy.
I would first check both the engine and transmission mounts. You didn’t say what engine you have, but if it’s the 2.5L 5 cyl, check the dogbone mount on the transmission.
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