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Dave Tidman

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  • in reply to: Clutch Whine #1024974
    Dave TidmanDave Tidman
    Participant

      can you tell us the make, year and model?

      It’s hard to diagnose noises over the internet. It could be some issue with the new clutch install (did you do a flywheel also or just the clutch), or it could be an issue with a bearing in the transmission. You could try putting it on jackstands (be really careful) and try to further isolate the noise.

      let us know if you find anything.

      in reply to: 2013 Ford Explorer #1024439
      Dave TidmanDave Tidman
      Participant

        I would do a block test to see if there is a head gasket leak.

        in reply to: Timing belt tragedy #1024438
        Dave TidmanDave Tidman
        Participant

          Bad news is it sounds like you have a bent valve. You could do a leakdown test to verify. If a few are bent, you may be able to get the head rebuilt by a machine shop.

          in reply to: Valve cover gasket/screw oil leakage #1024159
          Dave TidmanDave Tidman
          Participant

            It’s probably time for a valve cover gasket.

            in reply to: 1993 Nissan Altima 2.4 automatic #1024158
            Dave TidmanDave Tidman
            Participant

              is it a crank – no start or a no crank – no start?

              If it was badly overheated, I would be looking for a new engine if you want to keep the car. It’s likely the head is warped and the deck may also be damaged.

              in reply to: 2003 Camry xle 2.4 150,090 miles #1024157
              Dave TidmanDave Tidman
              Participant

                Misfires could be fuel, spark or timing. Any particular pattern to when the CEL comes on (after a hard pull, sitting at a light, etc)? Is it only P030X codes? Any P0300 codes?

                Looks like you may have addressed the fuel situation (however, if you used aftermarket injectors…). That leaves spark and timing. I would give the coils a good visual inspection for signs of carbon tracking. Also, if you have not changed the spark tube seals, there could be oil in the spark plug tube and that could cause a misfire. If you are getting P0300s it may need a deeper look into the timing. Not a toyota guy, so not sure how their VVT works. Also check your plug gap, if you have not changed them ever, it may be time.

                Good luck. Hopefully you can catch it when it is not behaving and figure it out.

                in reply to: Parasitic draw #994805
                Dave TidmanDave Tidman
                Participant

                  600 mA seems high. What circuit is it? You need to be sure you didn’t accidentally activate a module.

                  in reply to: Abs sensor lines too short!!! #994804
                  Dave TidmanDave Tidman
                  Participant

                    They do make them, but I’m not sure how you ensure the connectors are correct. Here is an example:

                    Otherwise, it’s probably a 2 wire circuit, if you are good with wiring/soldering/heat shrink it may not be too difficult to extend them yourself.

                    in reply to: No A/C Low Pressure Port | Altima 2005 #994372
                    Dave TidmanDave Tidman
                    Participant

                      Here is the FSM section for the 2005 Altima, The refrigerant line diagram shows both a high and low side service port.

                      see if this helps:

                      https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Altima%2F2005%2FATC.pdf

                      Dave TidmanDave Tidman
                      Participant

                        Is there any correlation with the indicator being on and the brake pedal being depressed? You likely have some sort of short or rub through in a harness. You need a wiring diagram and may need to trace the circuit back and do a good visual inspection of the harnesses.

                        in reply to: Ebrake light on dash not illuminating #994062
                        Dave TidmanDave Tidman
                        Participant

                          Probably the best thing to do now is get a wiring diagram. I’m not familiar with the model, but these days it no longer a simple circuit. It likely goes to the BCM that then sends a message to the cluster to turn the indicator on. Have you done a full scan to see if there are any BCM or instrument cluster codes?

                          in reply to: P0420 Code – 2013 Chevy Equinox 2.4 #993738
                          Dave TidmanDave Tidman
                          Participant

                            An oldie but a goodie to watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VZ5K8n5jj0

                            A scanner with live data may help.

                            in reply to: Emissions hose Y connector open? #993661
                            Dave TidmanDave Tidman
                            Participant

                              What codes are you getting? this may point to where the hose is supposed to go.

                              in reply to: Converting standard incandescent headlights to LED #993542
                              Dave TidmanDave Tidman
                              Participant

                                There are usually LED ballasts that need to be installed between the bulb and the existing harness. You may need to find a spot to mount them. Otherwise, it’s fairly easy.

                                in reply to: 2009 Volkswagen EOS Engine shaking #993454
                                Dave TidmanDave Tidman
                                Participant

                                  I would first check both the engine and transmission mounts. You didn’t say what engine you have, but if it’s the 2.5L 5 cyl, check the dogbone mount on the transmission.

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