Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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Hi the Mt2500 only went to 2000 ish and is bi directional.
If you find a used solus it will do what you want.
The older solus pro is obsolete now but will do what you want.
Check the software IE version 14.2 is 2014 15.2 or 15.4 is 2015 etc.
Avoid the Ethos it is usually not bi directional.You can find Autel products to fill you need. The 808 should do what you need and if you have a little extra the 906 has very good coverage.
OTC products like the genisys had bi directional and can be found cheap.Pushing the pedal with the stick is a good way.
The master cylinder plunger sits near the open port at the top going to the reservoir. When you even push approximately a quarter inch or so the plunger moves past the reservoir port and seals off the reservoir port in order to build pressure.
When you open the hose or bleeder you get a little spurt and that’s typically all because there is no further movement of the master cylinder.
It is best to push hard enough with the stick so it maintains tension or else it might fall off the pedal when you open the line.
Try it don’t be afraid.Some techs use tire valve stems and push them into the bore of the flex hose to stop fluid leakage.
Otherwise you need to have the old caliper unbolted but hose connected until you install the new one and then transfer the hose.
But with this method you need to keep the time to an absolute minimum about 2-3 minutes or so then top up your master cylinder quickly.Hi I have a demo of the maximus 2 for a week and I like it so far.
It does a good job, it auto identifies vehicle with a click and has a lot of features and functions.
The Maximus identifies data pids which are out of range and also reports fuel trim in cell of Block Learn Memory which is useful for certain diagnostics.
I diagnosed a vehicle with a cat efficiency code so it identified an airflow and engine load issue immediately.
This car already had prior related issues repaired and a plugged cat replaced about 4 months prior.I own an autel 906 but it is a wired vehicle link. I am looking for a tool to complement and supplement it.
(snap on matco and autel all have a wireless vehicle link scanner models available)
The Maximus is useful because I can sit in my office while monitoring or diagnosing the vehicle at my computer or is very handy for executing actuator tests under the hood so you can actually view what you are commanding. I am a one man shop so this is valuable to me.The Max products are waterproof, rugged and have a 2 year warranty.
So I am thinking of buying one a MaxGo it has the same functionality less the scope.I also own a snap on ethos and solus pro. Both are neither auto identify and both require the keys for the cable. I bought both used inexpensively so I had the ethos for quick data stream and for graphing while using the solus for bi directional tests. Both are now outdated and so slow compared to any of the new tablets.
I considered a solus edge but snap on does not have as much functionality as either the Autel or the Maximus.
The one note-able thing tough about snap on is that if they list a test for your vehicle on the menu then it works as it is supposed to.
And their function or data menu display is fairly consistent between car models and brands.Even with minimal daily use it is possible to make scan tool pay for itself if you can simply charge $10 to $15 extra on top of your regular labor.
Any of the newer tablet ones in fact will help pay for themselves in time saved by auto connecting and identifying the vehicle. They are so much better.The scfm of the compressor is enough for air tools.
It is the minimum I would recommend for DIY or mechanic.
The compressor works well, has been working for over a decade .
( I am a mechanic by trade.)The regulator that came with the unit is junk it is ok for a paint gun that’s it.
I initially considered returning the compressor but upon inspection i could see ;when looking in the inlet to the regulator the passage is only slightly larger than 1/8 inch. My air lines are 3/8 inch the brass barbs that attach the end are at least 5/16 inch so I found this to be creating low power to my impact guns for obvious reason.Hi,
The differential is part of the transmission and shares the same fluid and sump.
Ok to change transmission fluid and filter.The recommended oil is 5w30 so 15w30 is too thick unless you are in an area that is hot all year round it would be wiser to do 10w30.
IMHO.Hi,
In Canada most dealers did not have an oscilloscope.
Some did not have a compression tester, few had a cylinder leak tester.
None had a straight edge.
None that i worked for had a smoke machine.
The one brand of dealer did not approve smoke just a nitrogen test system and soap or ultrasonic sound tester.
It became worse in some of the small dealerships because the franchisor would send all kinds of specialty tools that were not optional (some are hardly needed) causing the shop to neglect buying useful or essential tools that are not part of the mandatory dealership tools.
It is sad that the techs are coerced into supplying what is needed in order to be able to do their daily job.It is possible for a combustion leak test to not show positive if the combustion leak is very small and is only occurring while under load.
Because the load conditions and pressures cannot be duplicated while testing in the shop bay. Those conditions occur only while driving on the road.
So a second test should be carried out after a brief highway drive.
If the result is still negative then there is likely some other issue such as a rad cap not holding pressure or allowing air to enter when the vehicle cools down.
Has the rad, flush and thermostat all been changed after the head gasket repair job?
If not then has stop leak been put in after the rad, after the flush?
Has the stat been replaced after the all the other work?
One needs to remember that just because these parts have been replace once that they can fail again after some.Hi,
I would suggest going to the auto parts supplier or actual fastener supplier.
The ones from a building supplies store often are not automotive grade.
Unless the stamped number is greater than 10.Hi, it looks like it may be stop leak.
There is a type with small pellets, that resembles those.
It is likely the stop leak was initially put in the cooling system was not warm or the proper warm up cycle did not occur. Likely as a result the pellets did not dissolve sufficiently then hardened up. This is the down side of using such products.If you remove the rad, turn it upside down and flush it can be cleaned out adequately.
Hi
I have the equivalent of the ATD Tools 3300.
I did have to buy an adapter for Ford but that has fit nearly all vehicles.
I also have the Private Brand Tools PBT70888 but have used a couple of times only for pressure testing a cooling system. I use it to test caps though.They are bit of extra money but the belt drive ones last longer and run cooler.
There is 2 portable models one upright and another horizontal.
The Husky ones are good and any similar in design should be ok.
(Sanborn, coleman or campel hausfeld belt drive models)
Those are rugged enough, put out a decent amount of air.
It is pretty much the minimum a mechanic or serious DIY should consider.
I have the husky upright one and have had it for nearly a decade running impacts, air ratchet and the orbital sander at home.
Just a recommendation is to remove the air regulator out of the tank and put your air hose or coupler directly into the tank.I assume you are referring to using the test light to check for arcing wires or leaking insulation?
The HEI tester you mentioned is to test if the coil is putting enough spark out.
As well as the ones with adjustable gaps. They are meant to be an indicator of sufficient spark voltage or energy.The ones that are clear plastic and have like a noid light in them are meant to look for weak spark or intermittent spark loss. They take some getting used to and are more of a comparison from one cylinder to another or of intermittent spark.
They each have their own purpose or limitation and I have and use all including the test light depending on what I need to check for.Hi,
The 21mm is a bit looser than the 13/16 but it can usually be used.
The 22mm is a bit snugger than the 7/8.
The 24mm is close to 15/16.
A 1 1/16 can usually be used for the 27mm.
I find I do use a 23mm on Dodge wheel nuts when they get rusted.Hi
Only you can answer that question.
Typically techs show some signs of tinkering mechanical and are inquisitive at an early age. They typically do all of their own car maintenance and can change most components themselves. They often do small jobs or help friends or neighbors.
If you possess most of the above you and are serious then you should shadow an experienced tech.
When you do get a job do not become involved with the bickering or politics that are often found in the field.
Keep in mind that you are most likely to advance based on your skills, your attitude and your ability to articulate your career needs or desires to your supervisors and management.
Any trade will get you quick entry and will let you start earning compared to getting a degree in university or college. The down side is that you may find that your pay is less.
A career in this present are means to possess knowledge and skill set that is adaptable, transferable and update able.
It is not realistic to imagine working in one place for entire career.
Jobs become extinct and companies close down on a whim in this age.
If you do decide to enter this field, seek your place of employment carefully.
Look for a shop that supplies the necessary diagnostic equipment, the proper repair information and supplies any special tools that are required.
See if the employees are happy, stay long and there is little employee turn over. That would be the ideal shop (maybe doesn`t exist).Buy your tools wisely, don`t go broke or buy too much in the beginning.
Don`t buy what you wouldn`t use to fix your own vehicles in the beginning.
There is lots of advice on what to buy to start off with and what quality to get in the forums here.
Don`t feel that you have to buy what the shop does not have just to be able to do your job or to make it easier. It is not your job to bridge this gap.
That is where lot of the issues in this industry stem and some shop owners understand this but in general the industry has a long way to go in terms of creating a good working environment with reasonable expectations of it`s techs.
Also as Eric has stated in one of his videos there may be a time when your body cannot physically tolerate this trade or you have simply had enough.
You need to consider what career path to transition to at that time.
You do gain useful knowledge and skill, don`t let anything stop you from using what you have so that you can step up to something better if the opportunity arises.Good luck I hope that you or others in the same situation find this helpful