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The way you worded that I sense some arrogance or attitude.
If any of that spills out in a job interview you are not likely to get hired.
No dealers do not have policy from up above as whom to hire.
It depends on experience education and attitude.
It would certainly be easier to enter into domestic or aisian dealer than it would european. The layout of Korean is simpler but electrically they are equally as challenging. The Euro models are assembled to look impressive and conceal
things as to not appear as cluttered.
There is so much that one has to learn and in fact embark on a lifelong
journey of learning if they wish to remain in this field as a career.It is best to take more of a humble approach and you have to be 100%
positive in attitude and open to learning. Any bit of negativity or bad attitude during an interview its game over. Just some food for thought.The bleeder keg isn’t essential you can use a simpler version or make one from a garden sprayer and buy adapters or make them from an old cap and a bolt on valve stem. Lots of ideas on you tube.
The Astro vans used to be the only problematic GM ones but looks like the list is growing.
Did you try to cycle the abs with the scan tool and conventionally bleed?
I have usually found that I have to cycle the abs with a scan tool at least once or twice and had usually manually bled with a helper.Hi,
You need to consider what kind of car lines you will be working on and if the scan tool sufficiently covers your needs.
I have 3 different ones for my shop and just sold my older ones.Snap on is good for Domestic and Asian. It usually covers what a general tech will encounter in an average shop. It is fairly consistent in the way its interface and functions are displayed throughout the model ranges.
I just bought the Ethos Edge and like it as the first tool to grab usually.Watch out on the prices of used ones. They are often obsolete and the software is usually out of date. If you add the purchase price plus the update cost they often are not worthwhile.
Or if you get a deal on one and it covers what you need for a while and can live with that, then upgrade to a new tool at a later date.
They can become obsolete in as little as 2-3 years.Autel offers a few models.
The 808 is the replacement for the Maxidas 708.
This is the cheapest and may be the best for DIY or enthusiast.
The 906 has a lot of bi directional and functionality and is affordable.
I have the 906 and like it.
The 908, has more, the 908 pro can program certain vehicles.
The 908 elite has the best hardware.Launch x431 pro is good and affordable.
It is pretty good, may be lacking a few bi directional in certain domestic models, as what I have read but I have the newest software and did not encounter any yet.
It makes a good 2nd tool.I have had demos for several weeks now.
I had an issue on a 2015 subaru where the codes did not clear correctly with the
Autel nor the Matco.
I worked on a 2014 mini cooper as well and had codes.
The snap on scanner correctly identified the active codes and the permanent codes which have to be cleared by driving the vehicle to prove to the ecm that the system is free of faults before the vehicle clears them.The snap on had faster live data, perhaps better for testing air fuel ratio sensors or for graphing and monitoring.
On a 2008 caravan the Modis did not have nearly as many bi directional functionality though.
I had also been checking out on launch pro products.
They are the same software and virtually the same tool but launch is less money for cost.
Only matco puts extra buttons on the tool and it is my impression that the
matco tool is made more rugged and waterproof “drop proof and waterproof”
as described by matco.For a shop or professional diagnostic technician it is important to have more than one scan tool regardless so it is ideal to not buy the expensive of any brand but to get more than one brand to better your coverage or to fill the gaps not covered by any one tool.
I hope my 2 replies to this thread gives some of you out there some useful info to help make decisions.
I second the previous reply.
The time you waited was typical turn around time for a brake job.
You did not give any details as to what they did or weather it was front or back.
The cost may not be that bad.
OE parts are usually more money and the dealer rates are often higher.
A suggestion would be to find an honest independent mechanic.
You could ask how much they would charge for the the same brake job.
That way you will know if the dealer was fair or you will know where to go next time.Mobile techs can be found on Craigs List.
But be fore warned if you select cheap they may not be experienced or professionals.
You could end up with “backyard Bob or side job Sam”
If they come out and don’t have what they need you could find yourself with a dismantled vehicle waiting for longer for the completed repair.
If you need warranty in a short time what will you do if they don’t reply to your call?You will generally see rust in a couple of days depending if you are in a wet or humid area. It is always best to spray some light oil on the surface.
It can be easily wiped up and cleaned off a can of brake cleaner.It is not expensive but I have heard that the software is not great.
It keeps freezing and has those kind of issues.
That is the feedback based on other tech forums.
The thing to remember about scopes is that they have to display useful information reliably and if it doesn’t or if it cannot be done conveniently and easily then you will end up not using it.This post is fairly old. You did not mention if you purchased yet.
The Autel 708 is obsolete. You could find it cheap used but updates won’t be supported much longer by Autel.
The 808 has replaced it.
The 906 is very good it does a lot.
Matco Max Go or Max Me or the Launch version of these is also quite good for the money. IMHO.In the car repair side they usually lasted 3 weeks to a month at least.
In truck repair the shortest was 3 days to a week.
There is no tolerance for guys who do not know how to do what they claim they could do. Plus they have no tolerance for guys who cannot do what they are told to do or do not have enough common sense to report to their supervisor when they have a problem. If they let something go out the door that is not fixed or should not go out the door there are meetings the same or next day and they are fired.[b][/b]I bought myself a snap on one. It has duty cycle, frequency, capacitance.
Continuity beep, relative reading. Plus has a large display that is easy to read.
All of the features that my fluke 87 had for half the price.Innova makes obd1/obd2 scanners but the msrp is more than you would expect.
You could find a used snap on mt2500 or a used OTC.JeepersCreepers suggestion is excellent.
I pretty much 2nd that.
Ingersoll Rand air tools wherever you can find them inexpensively.
Channel lock pliers. Gear wrench pliers for specialty ones they seem identical to some of the tool truck ones and are quit a bit less expensive.
Harbor Freight impact sockets are ok.
For chrome sockets buy some good ones.
You can buy medium quality brand name combination wrenches but will end up with tool truck ones for the sizes below 3/4 or 19mm.
The fit and grip is important on these, But you can start with cheaper that go up to larger sizes. ie to 1 1/4 and to 30mm.
Avoid cheap flare nut wrenches they seem to walk over the fastener and will never loosen it.
The sears breaker bars and extensions or gear wrench or sk are decent.
I noticed guys extolling the harbor freight long flex head ratchets but have broken a 3/8″ drive in less than a years use and a 1/2″ drive in a year and a half so. They were warranty but I added snap on ones to my tool collection.
You can usually get the mechanic starter sets from sears cheap enough that it does not matter a lot if you end up upgrading items in a year or 2.