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Well I sold my Hatch at the beginning of the yr and I really wish I hadn’t. Just thought I would update even though I have nothing to update with yet. I am looking to get another hatch and when I do I will post some pics.
Well I sold my Hatch at the beginning of the yr and I really wish I hadn’t. Just thought I would update even though I have nothing to update with yet. I am looking to get another hatch and when I do I will post some pics.
I have used it and it is extremely helpful with the diagnosis of pattern failures from makes you aren’t familiar with. It is also helpfull to have in those cases where you are just completely stumped and dont know what direction to take next in your diagnosis.
If the cost of it wasn’t so expensive I would have it myself but for a couple grand a yr I will stick to the forums lol.
To answer your question about the critical thinking though, I don’t think it does. I mean just because the blinker doesnt work and identifix has 31 responses saying corosion in the light socket, doesn’t mean that the combo switch, wiring, bulb, isnt also bad…
When I was in school my teacher would always repeat “Everything works till it doesn’t.”
I have used it and it is extremely helpful with the diagnosis of pattern failures from makes you aren’t familiar with. It is also helpfull to have in those cases where you are just completely stumped and dont know what direction to take next in your diagnosis.
If the cost of it wasn’t so expensive I would have it myself but for a couple grand a yr I will stick to the forums lol.
To answer your question about the critical thinking though, I don’t think it does. I mean just because the blinker doesnt work and identifix has 31 responses saying corosion in the light socket, doesn’t mean that the combo switch, wiring, bulb, isnt also bad…
When I was in school my teacher would always repeat “Everything works till it doesn’t.”
Haha that is funny that people are don’t the with Eco ecm’s on http://www.pgmfi.org (honda’s ecu site) people are doing the same thing by using an obd 1 ecu they can have almost fully functional standalone for a fraction of the price.
Topher, I havent had that issue with crome yet so i wouldnt know.
Forgive the spelling and misplaced words this site OS not phone froemdly
Haha that is funny that people are don’t the with Eco ecm’s on http://www.pgmfi.org (honda’s ecu site) people are doing the same thing by using an obd 1 ecu they can have almost fully functional standalone for a fraction of the price.
Topher, I havent had that issue with crome yet so i wouldnt know.
Forgive the spelling and misplaced words this site OS not phone froemdly
thanks for checkin up on me lol I had an issue with a high idle I had adjusted my fuel tables in my tuning program to adjust for it. I felt like a retard when l looked under the hood last night and the FPR vacuum hose was disconnected from the intake manifold….
talk about the perfect example of the KISS method. I went the hard route lol
This morning I re-adjusted my fuel tables and plugged the vacuum line back up.
the car is running great again just hit 1K last night
ok so here is the update It is running and running great it was not timing.
It was a problem with the injector circuit for more details visit here http://www.d-series.org/forums/general- … ost2412204 cause I am late for work already.
thanks for your help guys
89 Honda civic dc hatch with a 93 civic ex engine
Arced the alternator while replacing it causing a cranking/no spark condition
Had to replace the wire running from pin A21 of the ecu to the yellow/green wire at the distributor plug. Still running rough but now have spark
Well the guys over at http://www.d-series.org/forums/general- … spark.html helped me out. I got it running last night at about 130 bit it is running really rough.
The problem was there was no continuity from the ecu (p06 Honda ecu pin A21) to terminal D of the ignitor.
The fix…I ran a wire straight from the ecu to the dist plug and made a jumper. The car started right up so I cut the wire at the ecu and ran a new wire to the dist plug where I soldered another connection.
Replaced cap, rotor, .plugwires, plugs 500 miles ago. Still runs really rough.
It sounds like a four wheeler.
This is what I am looking for thank you I want real world experiences and what was needed to fix them
Looking for:
Year
Make
Model
Mistake made (electrical mistakes that is) such as what I did or what the previous poster described
Action needed to fix mistake e.g replaced igntion fuse or PCM.Imo it is nice to have a checklist of things to check off and that is what I would like to do with this thread.
I had an issue with no spark back in feb. I messaged eric back then and he helped with what he could I since figured out it was the coil and ignitor both were bad. I replaced them and ten hours later i spun a rod bearing….
so this is my rebuilt motor I have about 700 miles on the coil and ignitor before this no spark situation. I am following the same testing procedures that i used when they both failed I have already replaced my ignitor cause based on the tests i did it was bad.
now the porblem is it is still not getting spark and I am getting a code 15. I already reinstalled the “bad” ignitor reset the ecu and checked for the code again and it is still there.
code 15 in my 89 honda hatch with an engine from a 93 is ignition output signal error
now I have the new ignitor back in and here is the checklist i have completed so far.( not in chronological order)
resistance checked coil=good
input test of ignitor=good
battery voltage check at coil=good
fuses (test light and visual)=good
ECU checked=good
fuel pump priming=good
injectors firing=good
main relay turning on and off=good
spark at plug= no
spark at coil= no
ICM(ignitor) pulsing= no but brand new