Forum Replies Created
- Replies
So I did this today, and everything went really well. It for sure wasn’t oil it was just dirty and rusty fluid. I ran the Prestone cleaner and I drove around in it for a while and then I drained it out then after that I did about 4 flush and fills on the last one everything started to come out clean. I added the coolant then bleed the system and then drove it around for about 20 mins and everything went well. I let it cool and then checked it and the coolant in the over flow tank and in the radiator was still clean. So I figured it probably just needed a good cleaning. And I will probably do another cleaning in a year or so.
Thanks so much for the advice!Well the first thing that you will need to do is get some oil in it. I would also say you probably run a bottle of the Lucas Oil Stabilizer in it. I have only ever used it for extra lubrication but the bottle does calm that it helps with knocking sounds and it is supposed to free up lifters and things like that. It can’t hurt. As far as I know this is your best bet.
You should probably undo your spark plugs and just let your engine turn over so you can get everything nice and lubed up.
This is your best bet. You are going to need to get oil in it to figure out how bad it is. This way you can probably do this for under 30$ Maybe under 25$ depending on how cheap you can get oil.
Good luck man I hope its not to bad.No, Its not a blown head gasket. I have not done a compression test but there has been no reason to do one. The car runs really well. its not losing coolant or oil the oil looks good and it get changed regularly and it never come out milky. I kinda think that it was just from where that overflow tank was cracked open. we live in a pretty dusty area and I believe that some of that got in there. That picture was taken about 3 months ago, I cleaned it off and it looks normal now.
Does anyone have any advice on the coolant flush?I know not every one’s a fan but I really like the Lucas Stop Slip! When you change the fluid one of the quarts should be the Lucas stuff then the other two should be the Honda Tans fluid. The Lucas stuff works wonders. My sisters car wouldn’t go past 200
I had a friend who did this and all we had to do to fix it was replace the main fuse. I’m not sure if this is how it is in all cars but his was under the hood and then there was a screw on both sides that hold it in place. That’s where I would start
I did check the 40 amp Fuse and it is good. Also my friend at the salavage yard tested the other one that I tried and said it was good. Also I have never replaced the thermostat on this car and it has 150xxx
Just a quick question, the part I don’t understand is why it only happens while im driving on the highway. Any other time I don’t have any problems with it. Does this seem normal?
Thanks so much! Thoes were great sites!
So I undid the battery and let it reset then drove it till it happened aging pulled over and pulled the codes. Here’s what I got.
I got 39 which is says ‘torque converter problem”
then I alsogot 44 which says “oxygen sensor curcit lean exhaust”Ok, After doing some research on the 44 problem I will throw some info in here that might help out.
The first thing: When I first got the car it had a bad hesitation problem. I was able to fix this by cleaning this. Though I will admit I did not do a very good job. This was one of the very first things I ever did one my own. I did not take the MAF off all the way I just sprayed it in the one side of the MAF and let it dry for about an hour. This did take care for the most part of the hesitation problem. Every now and then it will still do it but not very often.
Thing two: When the car is first started after sitting for a while you have to give the car about 30 seconds before it will drive normal. Now this info can go with both of the problem codes. If you have the hood up you can hear a sucking sound, but it only last for maybe 5 or 10 seconds then goes away. I never thought to much about it because I got the car for 500 and it had always ran amazing and I never had a problem and the sucking sound goes away real fast.
I figured this might have something to do with the 39 code. The Trans fluid level is fine Though when you check it, it does look red but like a dirty red. I did have a problem where the car got pretty low on trans fluid because of a leak in the cooling lines one day when driving home. It never got empty but it was for sure low. When I fixed the problem I cut the bad parts out of the lines and replaced them with fule injector hoses. When I cut the bad part out I let all of the fluid in there drain out and then I put brand new fluid in. I have never changed the fluid or filter because I got the car with 130xxx miles on it and the person I got it from had said he never had it changed and he got it at 30xxx miles, so I didn’t want to take the risk.The car is in real good shape and since I have had it, it has been well taken care off. The plugs and wires and fuel filter and air filter all have less than 2000 miles on them. I have pulled the plugs and they look pretty good. There was a little but on white on the top on a few of them but nothing crazy.
The only thing I haven’t done that I want to do is change and flush the cooling system. The coolant is kinda dirty and it looks like it might have a little bit of gunk in it. I doubt that this has anything to do with it but I figured I would give you guys everything I can think of.Thank you for all your help!
When I did the short thing the CEL did not flash or anything? IS there something you have to do to pull stored codes? I have only pulled OBD1 codes once before.
Would ether one of you guys know where I could find the solenoid?? I am a little confused. When I bought the part from AutoZone I thought that it was the part and the solenoid. Because that is all AutoZone and Advanced sells. After replacing the part and the light still being on I did some more research three out of four of the auto stores in this area (AutoZone Advanced and Napa) only sell the part but O Reilly sells just the solenoid.So I am confused if I replaced just the valve or the valve and the solenoid.
Here is the part I bought.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Canister-Purge-Valve/1998-Ford-Escort/_/N-jaeghZ9gsn6?itemIdentifier=540578_0_0_
Here is the link to just the solenoid
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/CPV25/02211.oap?year=1998&make=Ford&model=Escort&vi=1304312&ck=Search_canister+purge+valve_1304312_1862&keyword=canister+purge+valve
As far as I can really find there is no good info on this. I own a Haynes book for my car but It does not cover this. All it says about the code is just to replace the part. There is some info on it on the Ford Escort owners forum, but they all replace the part and they are good.
I keep messing with it one day at a time but I would love input if you guys have any thoughts!
Thanks sooooooo much!So I know this has been dead for a while but I just now got the money to but the new valve. I replaced the part and had the code erased. Drove around for about a day, then the check engine light came back on. So I had the codes pulled and is was the same p1451 code. From all the research i did on this problem everything i could find people just replaced the problem and it fixed it. In regards to what Eric said, The reason I really got on it. was because about and hour after I have turned off my car after driving it it will leak a real small amount of gas for about an hour then it would stop.Its The leak is coming from around the gas tank. I was told by a mechanic that a bad purge valve could cause that. I replaced it yesterday but it has done nothing but rain and I park outside so i have not been able to see if it is still leaking. I just drove up to school and parked the car and its not raining so I will look before I leave.
The real question I have is where do i go from here? There is not a lot of good information out there for this problem.