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Ya that’s what I was thinking. How long do you think this job will take? I have done a good amount of car work in the past including a motor swap. I have not done a lot of work with the amount of time I work. This is my side car so I don’t mind it sitting for a while I work on it but im not sure if this is a job for me or not. I have never had to do a clutch before so im not sure what i am in for.
Advice on this?Okay, I came home and started to bleed the clutch. I was then able to see that it is leaking where the transmission and the motor connected. So I am not exactly sure what this means but I know enough to know that it’s not good. I am thinking that it’s my slave but am not sure.
thoughts or advice would be great!Awesome! Thanks! I kinda figured that’s how it would be but I just wanted to make sure before I put everything back together.
Thanks!Awesome! Thanks! I kinda figured that’s how it would be but I just wanted to make sure before I put everything back together.
Thanks!I followed the sound the the passenger side
checked everything, took the caliper apart and then put it all back together and it still was making that sound. I figured that it has to be one of the new parts. Swaped the sides that the rotors were on. The sound followed the one that started on the passenger side. Moved them back and put the old one on and took it for a test drive and then the sound was gone. There must be a high point or something on it. im going to have auto zone swap them out tomrrow.
Thanks for all the help!!I followed the sound the the passenger side
checked everything, took the caliper apart and then put it all back together and it still was making that sound. I figured that it has to be one of the new parts. Swaped the sides that the rotors were on. The sound followed the one that started on the passenger side. Moved them back and put the old one on and took it for a test drive and then the sound was gone. There must be a high point or something on it. im going to have auto zone swap them out tomrrow.
Thanks for all the help!!I am not sure if someone could just look and tell unless they were crazy thin. Maybe a real mechanic could since they work with it so much but im not sure.
You can call around and find a parts store in your area that will resurface rotors. This will do two things, 1 they will measure them first and find out if they are in fact “too thin” . To have your rotors redone they have to be at least so thick to make them safe. Two if they are a safe thickness they will have the surface redone and you will have a nice redone rotor.Most places will do this for free and in my area the only places that does this is O’Reilly’s. They will let you bring it in and they will measure it with a special tool.
Worst case you have to buy new rotors, but they are pretty cheap so its not really a big deal.
When it comes to the break sounds you can hear, it might be time to replace your pads and rotors. You will just need to do a visual inspection for that. Just look to see if the pads are getting close to the metal tab.
I am not sure if someone could just look and tell unless they were crazy thin. Maybe a real mechanic could since they work with it so much but im not sure.
You can call around and find a parts store in your area that will resurface rotors. This will do two things, 1 they will measure them first and find out if they are in fact “too thin” . To have your rotors redone they have to be at least so thick to make them safe. Two if they are a safe thickness they will have the surface redone and you will have a nice redone rotor.Most places will do this for free and in my area the only places that does this is O’Reilly’s. They will let you bring it in and they will measure it with a special tool.
Worst case you have to buy new rotors, but they are pretty cheap so its not really a big deal.
When it comes to the break sounds you can hear, it might be time to replace your pads and rotors. You will just need to do a visual inspection for that. Just look to see if the pads are getting close to the metal tab.
The air hammer did the trick!!!
Thanks so much for the advice! I first tried to hit on the knuckle to knock it loose but that was going really slow. Then I put the hammer on the part where the boot meets the bottom of the joint and pushed down and then hammered it and it worked like a charm! It only took maybe a minute or two and the thing feel right out!
Great advice guys!The air hammer did the trick!!!
Thanks so much for the advice! I first tried to hit on the knuckle to knock it loose but that was going really slow. Then I put the hammer on the part where the boot meets the bottom of the joint and pushed down and then hammered it and it worked like a charm! It only took maybe a minute or two and the thing feel right out!
Great advice guys!Ok so the first thing you are going to want to do is take a look at the oil. If the oil is light brown or milky looking then this could mean you have a blown head gasket. This would be probably caused by the cracked radiator. The next thing you could look at is see if there is oil in the coolant. This could also mean that you could have a blown head gasket.
Another sign is white smoke coming from the tail pipe. To be 100% sure you can do a compression test to see you have a loss of compression on any of the cylinders. if one cylinder can’t hold its compression then you know that is where the gasket is broken.Ok so the first thing you are going to want to do is take a look at the oil. If the oil is light brown or milky looking then this could mean you have a blown head gasket. This would be probably caused by the cracked radiator. The next thing you could look at is see if there is oil in the coolant. This could also mean that you could have a blown head gasket.
Another sign is white smoke coming from the tail pipe. To be 100% sure you can do a compression test to see you have a loss of compression on any of the cylinders. if one cylinder can’t hold its compression then you know that is where the gasket is broken.