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I work at a body shop, enough said.
The amount of ditsy, idiot, distracted drivers that come through the door blows me away.
“The curb came out of nowhere”
“I didn’t see she was stopped”
“I didn’t know it was a no passing zone”
“It was her fault for turning”
“Seemed like good conditions to pass”
“I was just checking my phone, it was really important”
I Hear these things come out of the mouths of owners of HIGH END vehicles. Not just old shit-boxes, but brand new luxery SUV’s. Some people just don’t give a fuck about getting an an accident.
“Oh well my insurance will pay to fix it.”
“Oh it’s just an inconvienience, hope I can get my car back for christmas”
It’s a joke. Nobody takes the responsibility of vehicle ownership seriously anymore. I’ve personally loaded and unloaded vehicles that people have died in and been cut out of, because of distracted driving, poor driving skill, bad driving habits.
It’s one thing I will never fuck around with. Driving is a serious responsibility, lets keep it that way.
@ Summer_Night – That Nu Finish car polish is junk. I’ve used it, it’s nowhere near abrasive enough to cut down and remove scratches and swirls.
@ Walt Jr – Very good advice. 3000 Grit will work to remove heavier scratches in the clear coat. If 3000 grit won’t, it’s very likely the scratch is through the clearcoat. One thing I will point out is that it isn’t good to apply a sealer or any products over a compounded surface. Compounds are an aggressive cut and don’t leave a full gloss finish. That is why a Polish is always followed up. You would get better results with a polish on a polish pad with your tool of choice, to follow up the compounding. THAN a good wax/sealer to bring out shine and protect
@barneyb Valid point. Paint is actually entirely cosmetic, that’s why you pay money for fancier colours, and have so many options. Vehicles and body parts are chemically dipped in sealer at the factory, that is where they are sealed. Colour, and clear is merely for looks and UV protection for the sealer. An average factory paint finish will be between 100-150 microns. 60% (or more) of that being clearcoat. A full HEAVY HEAVY compounding with an aggressive 8″ rotary buffer MAY knock off 20 microns. So in reality, yes you could eventually be down to bare metal, however that is highly unlikely. I’ve only personally seen issues with clearcoat durability if it has been sanded too thin before being polished. VERY easy to sand through clear, quite hard to buff through it.My personal recommendation would be an aggressive compounding with a 3M stage 1 EX, or Meguiars heavy cut compound, and a compounding pad. White is a very forgiving colour, so any final polish would do, even the cheap stuff, just make sure to work it in with a polishing pad. Good carnauba wax always helps bring out more depth, and that wet look.
@ Summer_Night – That Nu Finish car polish is junk. I’ve used it, it’s nowhere near abrasive enough to cut down and remove scratches and swirls.
@ Walt Jr – Very good advice. 3000 Grit will work to remove heavier scratches in the clear coat. If 3000 grit won’t, it’s very likely the scratch is through the clearcoat. One thing I will point out is that it isn’t good to apply a sealer or any products over a compounded surface. Compounds are an aggressive cut and don’t leave a full gloss finish. That is why a Polish is always followed up. You would get better results with a polish on a polish pad with your tool of choice, to follow up the compounding. THAN a good wax/sealer to bring out shine and protect
@barneyb Valid point. Paint is actually entirely cosmetic, that’s why you pay money for fancier colours, and have so many options. Vehicles and body parts are chemically dipped in sealer at the factory, that is where they are sealed. Colour, and clear is merely for looks and UV protection for the sealer. An average factory paint finish will be between 100-150 microns. 60% (or more) of that being clearcoat. A full HEAVY HEAVY compounding with an aggressive 8″ rotary buffer MAY knock off 20 microns. So in reality, yes you could eventually be down to bare metal, however that is highly unlikely. I’ve only personally seen issues with clearcoat durability if it has been sanded too thin before being polished. VERY easy to sand through clear, quite hard to buff through it.My personal recommendation would be an aggressive compounding with a 3M stage 1 EX, or Meguiars heavy cut compound, and a compounding pad. White is a very forgiving colour, so any final polish would do, even the cheap stuff, just make sure to work it in with a polishing pad. Good carnauba wax always helps bring out more depth, and that wet look.
I really enjoyed this video Eric! It gave me more insight as to what it is like from my managers perspective at work. I have seen many of the differences between working for yourself, and working for someone else.
I can somewhat say that I am self employed, or at least know the feeling of being self employed. Along with working under a manager at a body shop, I also dictate my own small repairs, or paint correction on the side, at my home garage. This is true self employment. I oversea all expenses going out, and business coming in. I draw all my own estimates, order all my own parts and supplies, keep all my own finances. It truly is a wonderful feeling.
I really enjoyed this video Eric! It gave me more insight as to what it is like from my managers perspective at work. I have seen many of the differences between working for yourself, and working for someone else.
I can somewhat say that I am self employed, or at least know the feeling of being self employed. Along with working under a manager at a body shop, I also dictate my own small repairs, or paint correction on the side, at my home garage. This is true self employment. I oversea all expenses going out, and business coming in. I draw all my own estimates, order all my own parts and supplies, keep all my own finances. It truly is a wonderful feeling.
Haha I guess it’s been a while.. Some updates?
I’ve stripped the interior down to nothing. Got a LOT of water leaks taken care of.
Rear washer jet on back of roof leaked
Front cowl onto blower motor leaked
Tail-lights leaked
Antenna leaked
After all that was taken care of I started pounding out the dent on the rear quarter. Got all the interior parts steam cleaned. Still need to restore a few plastics. Got some new foam padding for unde the carpet.
Got my stereo wired up. 6.5″ coax in the 2 front doors. 6.5″ components in the rear speaker housing (rear speakers optional, they fit quite nice after cutting out the cover) the tweeters for them are in the front yet to be finalized. Nice factory honda deck from an 09 CRV that I got for free.
It’s coming along good. LONG way from paint. Barely touched the engine yet. Interior is SOOOO Close. Newyears is my deadline 😀
Haha I guess it’s been a while.. Some updates?
I’ve stripped the interior down to nothing. Got a LOT of water leaks taken care of.
Rear washer jet on back of roof leaked
Front cowl onto blower motor leaked
Tail-lights leaked
Antenna leaked
After all that was taken care of I started pounding out the dent on the rear quarter. Got all the interior parts steam cleaned. Still need to restore a few plastics. Got some new foam padding for unde the carpet.
Got my stereo wired up. 6.5″ coax in the 2 front doors. 6.5″ components in the rear speaker housing (rear speakers optional, they fit quite nice after cutting out the cover) the tweeters for them are in the front yet to be finalized. Nice factory honda deck from an 09 CRV that I got for free.
It’s coming along good. LONG way from paint. Barely touched the engine yet. Interior is SOOOO Close. Newyears is my deadline 😀
Surface rust that lifts the paint and creates that bubbling effect can happen for a whole hosts of reasons.
Factory sealers and dipping used on bodys. GM had a few bad years for using a cheap sealer, which would separate from the metal, causing premature rust.
Stone chips that are not touched up, or have been dabbed over numerous times.
Other than a factory finish, pinholes, contamination, surface rust, poor grade product, improperly prepped finish, are all things that can lead to the paint separating from the metal.
Under most circumstances I see that the sealer/base/clear lifts all as one layer. I’ve seen tendencies with a few other manufactures where the base/clear separates from the sealer, which will not immediately cause rust.
As for achieving a proper finish without a decent booth is veryyy far fetched.
Our shop is equipped with a great air system, new guns, a great sikkens and u-tech lineup, and we have a top notch painter. However our out-dated low tech cross draft booth has a hard time holding temperatures and keeping the finish spec free.
Some wet sanding and/or buffing is always nice thing to do, but if you have the climate to lay down heavy, wet, slowww clearcoat your finish will come out looking flat as hell, with very little to no specs/dust in the finish.
Paint remover works great (You mean like a paint stripper product?) We use aircraft grade stripper, it’s nasty (gloves and goggles people)
It’s great for stripping hoods down (IE a 98 Chevy half ton hood last week) We discovered it had been painted 3 times ontop of the factory finish. Can’t guarantee our work if we don’t know what’s under it. Took 2 go’s to get it all off, finished it out with 80 git, and you have bare, fresh, ready to seal metal.
Surface rust that lifts the paint and creates that bubbling effect can happen for a whole hosts of reasons.
Factory sealers and dipping used on bodys. GM had a few bad years for using a cheap sealer, which would separate from the metal, causing premature rust.
Stone chips that are not touched up, or have been dabbed over numerous times.
Other than a factory finish, pinholes, contamination, surface rust, poor grade product, improperly prepped finish, are all things that can lead to the paint separating from the metal.
Under most circumstances I see that the sealer/base/clear lifts all as one layer. I’ve seen tendencies with a few other manufactures where the base/clear separates from the sealer, which will not immediately cause rust.
As for achieving a proper finish without a decent booth is veryyy far fetched.
Our shop is equipped with a great air system, new guns, a great sikkens and u-tech lineup, and we have a top notch painter. However our out-dated low tech cross draft booth has a hard time holding temperatures and keeping the finish spec free.
Some wet sanding and/or buffing is always nice thing to do, but if you have the climate to lay down heavy, wet, slowww clearcoat your finish will come out looking flat as hell, with very little to no specs/dust in the finish.
Paint remover works great (You mean like a paint stripper product?) We use aircraft grade stripper, it’s nasty (gloves and goggles people)
It’s great for stripping hoods down (IE a 98 Chevy half ton hood last week) We discovered it had been painted 3 times ontop of the factory finish. Can’t guarantee our work if we don’t know what’s under it. Took 2 go’s to get it all off, finished it out with 80 git, and you have bare, fresh, ready to seal metal.
It’s do-able, with the right products. Not sure how thick Rhino Liner is, but we use Line-X at our shop, no way you could get away with that on body panels, it builds almost a half inch think. Body lines would be too tight, trim wouldn’t fit.
However, with a thinner product, I see NO reason why it wouldn’t work.
Also, yes you are correct. A high quality bed liner has been shown to SLIGHTLY increase the rigidity of sheet metal panels.
It’s do-able, with the right products. Not sure how thick Rhino Liner is, but we use Line-X at our shop, no way you could get away with that on body panels, it builds almost a half inch think. Body lines would be too tight, trim wouldn’t fit.
However, with a thinner product, I see NO reason why it wouldn’t work.
Also, yes you are correct. A high quality bed liner has been shown to SLIGHTLY increase the rigidity of sheet metal panels.
Hard to assess the damage without taking the headlights/bumper/ fenders off and checking out the damage.
I have a strong feeling your upper (and possibly lower) rad support have got a bit of a twist to them.
With a side impact it’s also very likely that your inner fender has been pushed in.
However, it isn’t hard to at least pull the pieces back into the “ballpark” given you have measurements to guide you. Test-fitting and removing panels would get very tiresome.
Anything will work, leverage, a hammer, slide hammer, I’ve even used a long 2×4 to get an upper rad support straight.
However nothing beats an anchored hydraulic frame puller. They are easy, safe, and accurate. Most reputable shops should have at least one at their disposal.
Hard to assess the damage without taking the headlights/bumper/ fenders off and checking out the damage.
I have a strong feeling your upper (and possibly lower) rad support have got a bit of a twist to them.
With a side impact it’s also very likely that your inner fender has been pushed in.
However, it isn’t hard to at least pull the pieces back into the “ballpark” given you have measurements to guide you. Test-fitting and removing panels would get very tiresome.
Anything will work, leverage, a hammer, slide hammer, I’ve even used a long 2×4 to get an upper rad support straight.
However nothing beats an anchored hydraulic frame puller. They are easy, safe, and accurate. Most reputable shops should have at least one at their disposal.
Those bubbles would be rust that hasn’t broken through the paint yet. It will need to be sanded out into the metal, feathered out and filled to properly fix it.
Temperature should not affect a factory finish, or any properly applied finish. Only thing I’ve seen crack paint on plastic/fibreglass parts is some sort of impact. Or ofcourse an improperly painted piece.
If you found a painter that paints without a booth, there’s a HIGH chance that his work will not be good.
Even if he does the BEST metal work, and the BEST prep, and uses the BEST paint, there’s no way to get a good finish without a climate controlled filtered booth.
My advice, stay away from any painter who does not work for/own/operate a reputable business with at least a cross draft booth.
Those bubbles would be rust that hasn’t broken through the paint yet. It will need to be sanded out into the metal, feathered out and filled to properly fix it.
Temperature should not affect a factory finish, or any properly applied finish. Only thing I’ve seen crack paint on plastic/fibreglass parts is some sort of impact. Or ofcourse an improperly painted piece.
If you found a painter that paints without a booth, there’s a HIGH chance that his work will not be good.
Even if he does the BEST metal work, and the BEST prep, and uses the BEST paint, there’s no way to get a good finish without a climate controlled filtered booth.
My advice, stay away from any painter who does not work for/own/operate a reputable business with at least a cross draft booth.