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No, this isnt the CEL thats blinking its the D4 light, ex a TCM code
It blinks one long, and 4 short, aka Code 14
Sorry wasnt clear on which light was flashing.From what I gathered, it seems to say that either theres a short between the FAS wire (from TCU to ECU) or a bad ECU. Just wondering some direction. The ECU has been replaced already with a junkyard one due to a damaged AC Signal On wire.
Thanks, So my question would be what would cause a discrepancy on the tach over the computer? Find it odd that it seems my RPMs are low to the cluster but not on the ECU.
Ok this is really weird. So I hooked the Honda Scantool to my car and this is the rpm the computer is getting
Where does the tach get its signal from?
Actually I did pull some vacuum lines to see if it made any difference for diag purposes. It did sound like it did make a slight raise but nothing major.
By the way when i was to do the base idle change, as soon as i unplugged the IAC the engine ran VERY rough. i mean again i was shocked the engine didnt stall cause it ran like if i pulled a spark plug wire. These Honda engines are tanks I tell ya lol.
Just want everyone to know the outcome of this.
So it was the ECU, once i replaced the ECU and the left engine bay harness (it was about the same to replace the whole harness with a junkyard one then to fix the existing one, since it was like 10 wires that were bad on it and it wasn’t hard to access since i was replacing the fender anyway) the compressor engaged and now i finally have AC working perfectly.
Well, i took a plunge and installed my known good LX ECU (I just didn’t start the car with it, I heard it would run anyway until VTEC kicks in and then it would run like garbage) just to check what it returns on the red/blu wire. Of course 12V, so i think its safe to say its the ECU. (Sometimes its lucky to hold onto parts even if you never plan on using them for anything xD)
It just seems odd, i never shorted nothing out nor when i did the dash swap did i leave the battery plugged in.
I’m pretty close to condemning the ECU but I want to be 100% certain, even tho 94-95 Accord EX ECU’s are a dime a dosen at the junkyard I just don’t want to be part swapping lol.
I’m going to unplug my ac thermostat jump wire then test again to see if it still reads 6, or 12 to see if its that, if its still reads 6 its not my modified wiring cause thats pre ac thermostat. Least I can take my modifications out of the equation.
Is there any other tests i can do before calling an ECU?
Sucky thing is i have a 95 Accord ECU laying around but its for an LX model and I’m afraid to even check things with it because its for a F22B2 engine and not an F22B1 engine.
On a side note, i noticed lately my CEL hasn’t been turning on but idk if thats a ECU fault or just a wiring/bad bulb issue. If i end up replacing it and that ends up working too i guess i had a faulty ECU all along, just GOOD enough to run the car lol.
Ok when i get a chance ,later today or tomorrow ill check the ECU as im at work and i cant really quick test that.
Yes all this was done without the relay.
I don’t remember if the engine was running when i checked the red/blu wire but i was sure if the ECU isn’t commanding the clutch on it would be 12V instead of a ground, wonder if that wire is whats bad.
I thought id mention i have done a modification to the dash (installed a 97 CL dash in) and wired everything to the Auto Climate Control system, Though if it was that wouldn’t that be an issue at the switch level and none of the AC Components would work? As the ECU is obviously commanding things on, just no compressor action. And the wiring that was modified was before the AC Thermostat and not after. (The AC Thermo wiring is just bridged with a 3pin Plug and it gets control from the CL’s Climate Control Unit) I could test to see if its that by grounding out the BLU/YEL wire but im 99.9% Positive its not that.
Yes gets 12V.
Odd that the blk/yel wire gets 12V, wht gets 12V, and red/blu gets 6.3V (isnt that a ground to the ECU?) and red reads 0V (obviously) at the relay plug (this is with the AC on)
OK Finally found out why all this time the fans didnt work.
I was checking why my HVAC Heater Control isn’t working as well and noticed the Black/Yellow wire is only giving out .168V which is spoce to be battery voltage when the ignition is on. Checking out the power distribution to that circuit also seems to go to as well the radiator fan control unit. Checked the voltage on the same wire on the control unit and it read .098V.
Found out after all that the Yellow wire from the ignition switch was open, which goes to fuses 7, 8, and 10. repaired it and bam everything started working.
I hate electrical problems! :angry:
OK Finally found out why all this time the fans didnt work.
I was checking why my HVAC Heater Control isn’t working as well and noticed the Black/Yellow wire is only giving out .168V which is spoce to be battery voltage when the ignition is on. Checking out the power distribution to that circuit also seems to go to as well the radiator fan control unit. Checked the voltage on the same wire on the control unit and it read .098V.
Found out after all that the Yellow wire from the ignition switch was open, which goes to fuses 7, 8, and 10. repaired it and bam everything started working.
I hate electrical problems! :angry:
I have no idea if this can be related but I want to throw it out there cause it didnt begin to do this till the HVAC Controls stopped working (Cant turn on the blower, AC, nothing) I checked every fuse and they all are good. I tried another assembly I had laying around and same thing.
Mostly I drive back and forth a max of 10 miles, and always got to operating temp, i never really notice overheats but the day it did fail was a day i drove more then my usual amount and was in traffic.
I also jumped the engine coolant temp switch (At the thermostat housing) and still no fans turn on. Tested the fans and they both turn on when applied direct 12V. Checked the relay as well and its good and also used the one next to it that works the power windows which is the same type as I knew it was working.
I checked continuity/resistance from the fan control module’s green wire to the green wire of the temp switch. Seems to be fine (.03 if i remember after taking out the probes resistance).
All i haven’t checked yet is the ground and the green wire to the relay which I’m going to check soon.
