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Welcome to the forums! You may when to post your vehicle issue in the correct forum for a better and quicker response 🙂
Theres no difference between 5w30 and 10w30 at all once the oil is at operating temp. The only difference in the viscosity during the winter months with the 5w being thinner than the 10w. This ensure that theres as little oil starvation as possible when its freezing cold outside.
Do you have a check engine light illuminated on the cluster?
When the vehicle starts poorly, whats the outside temperature or is it consistant through out all temperature ranges?I would first look at the oil to make sure its full as well as checking oil pressure when running.
You could also do a visual inspection of the start up by having the hood open while someone else starts the vehicle.
It sounds and this is just an assumption that it could be severly misfiring at startup. You could try checking for spark but again, look to see if there is any codes stored on the PCM before proceding with any tests.
Hope this helps.
I think scopes are a MUST in automotive diagnostics. There an excellent too for finding glitches in MAF’s, CKP, CMS and so forth that DVOM’s can not pick up. Thats the next tool i want after i have purchased a compressor for my garage.
Id love to own this particular tool but it will never happen due to the cost 🙁
Hey hey,
Im in Illinois about 45 minutes south of Chicago. I still miss the UK (particulary my fish and chips and the footie!) but im happy in the States though 🙂
I love both cars! I used to have a 72 MG MGB which i miss. My plan for that was to drop in a E7 302 but decided to sell the project to pick up another Foxbody Mustang.
I cant wait to get the opportunity to drive the new 5.0 Coyote motor though!
If you go to Autozone.com, you can sometimes find wiring diagrams for some vehicles. I would start there and see which circuits are on that fuse you have pulled that stopped the drain and go from there.
You could even try to post a image here of the wiring diagram and we can also help you out that way too!
I also have access to Alldata for any make and any model of vehicle from 2011 to prior years through my Automotive Tech college if you need anything 🙂
You can visually check the A/C belt for any type of damage/wear such as cracks or any high speed glazing. There is some products out there to stop belt squeeks but there only a quick band aid fix in my opinion. If one of those products were to reduce that noise you are experiencing, that i would deffinatley replace your belt.
To isolate any pulley issues, you could remove the belt and freely hand spin your idler and belt tensioner pullies to check for any excessive resistance or any ‘play’.
Have you tried to rev the engine to around 3k rpm while the A/C is activated to see if you can see any issues with the compressor locking up or any issues with the A/C clutch? or even to see if the belt tensioner is working?
Hope this helps!