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Hi and welcome!
Another consideration point is making sure you do not tuch the glass of the bulbs with your fingers as that will shorten the life of the bulb.
Everyone made some great points listed above.
If you suspect a restricted exhaust system, you could remove either o2 sensors to see if you have a better throttle response seeing as there would be an abittional hole for the exhaust gasses to flow out of.
If your using a vaccum gauge, as mentioned above anything from 18 to 22″ is good at idle. The needle has to be steady when you take your idle readings. Also, with an engine being basically an air pump, as you ‘goose’ the throttle, the vacuum should drop to near zero, then back upto its orginal reading. However, a restricted exhaust will cause the engine not to ‘breath’ and the vaccum gauge reading will be low and start to drop.
Some places also sell exhaust back pressure gauges that use the same hole as the o2 sensors. I would have to refer to my tech book but, i believe a reading over 1.7 psi is a sign of a restricted exhaust. (If anyone would like to correct me here, then please do S:)).
More food for thought is if an o2 sensor is stuck lean (refer to your fuel trims if you have a scan tool or even graphic of the o2 sensor voltage), if will cause very poor throttle response, rough idle and a shear strain with a load on the engine climbing a steeper gradient in the road.
But alas, first thing is first with the retrieval of any diagnostic trouble codes!
Most vehicles will hold steady fuel pressure with KOEO for at least 5 mins before it starts to slowly drop.
You could ohm out the injectors and check for shorted windings. The TBI injectors are usually low impedance injectors so look for readings around 5 to 6k ohms. using Noid lights will also show if you have any short to grounds in the injector wiring causing one injector to constantly be ‘on’.
IF the pressure drops right away, that could be caused by a faulty check valve in the fuel pump.
I would do some more research on the specs for fuel pressure and go from there.
Good Luck and keep us posted!
Theres several different types of antifreeze, some phosphate free, some silicate free. And yes, there is a difference depending on what type of organic technology used. It just varies on what the manufacturer states is suitable for that particular motor.
I would suspect that your antifreeze will be green. If so, any good quality anitfreeze will be sufficient enough for you to use (Prestone comes to mind).
I think my favorite tool has to be my pocket screw driver. I use that all the time. Secondly would be my scan tool 🙂
Hi there and welcome to the forums!
Ill start with a few questions –
Is the check engine light on? When using your fuel pressure gauge, does it hold pressure? Any visable signs of vacuum leaks?
Usually when your remove vacuum from a MAP sensor, the PCM will richen the fuel ratio.
Why did you replace those parts already? Did you test them and use logic and evidence as to why they needed to be replaced?
The next time the vehicle has issues, i would do a KOEO test with the fuel pressure guage and see if you dont have a leaking injector. I would also check for spark on all 6 cylinders. Another check would also be to ohm out the ECT and see if the resistance increases or decreases depending on what type of ECT you have as the vehicle is running.
It also wouldnt hurt to check for a 5vREF at the MAP along with your ground and test the MAP sensor with a DVOM and vacuum gauge.
Hope this helps.
I got my 3 tier Craftsman tool chest from Sears during those Black Friday sales and it was half price.
I would buy a used one also if the price is right such as ebay as i need another. Your tool collection will soon add up!