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Andrew Deney

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  • in reply to: Charging issue #846307
    Andrew DeneyAndrew Deney
    Participant

      I’m fairly sure the output should read over 14v with the engine running. What is battery voltage with the engine not running? Either way, if the car stops whilst running then that does sound like alternator but you could have a fuel pump issue also. Any engine codes?

      in reply to: K&N performance air filter? #846151
      Andrew DeneyAndrew Deney
      Participant

        [quote=”peshewa” post=153661]The guys at MCM busted the myth on aftermarket air filters. Check it out.[/quote]
        Not really… They tested against a new paper filter. The paper filters block a lot quicker. Note that they did not run this test against a paper filter and an oiled filter after 15k of usage…

        in reply to: What if I liked my experience buying used tires? #845982
        Andrew DeneyAndrew Deney
        Participant

          I have done it for reasons similar to yourself… When needs must. Probably better driving on a used tyre than an illegal or dangerous unit. I also had a reasonably good experience.
          I don’t like to do it though as you do not know the true history of the tyre and no amount of inspection can tell you if the carcase is breaking down inside.
          I live in the UK and we have consumer laws covering used tyre sales to help ensure safety.

          in reply to: K&N performance air filter? #845981
          Andrew DeneyAndrew Deney
          Participant

            I fitted one to my 2007 Vw when I first bought it. I have cleaned it every year with a bit of a brush and I re-oiled it this year. It’s saved me around £80 in new filters, so I reckon I have about broken even.
            I have noticed more ‘grunt’ or ‘Torque’ at the upper end when towing at the limit, but other than that, no difference.

            Would I fit one again? Hell yea. And, no. No issues with any failure of air mass sensors or airflow sensors, I think that might be a rare condition caused by people over oiling them.

            in reply to: Rust removal #842169
            Andrew DeneyAndrew Deney
            Participant

              I used Hydrochloric acid at 36% dilution… Watch out for the fumes and do not get that shit on your hands and it does a fantastic job of rust removal.
              Use it outside and with a mask and gloves… The fumes really are lethal.

              in reply to: Ranger RL-8500 Brake Lathe Review #842071
              Andrew DeneyAndrew Deney
              Participant

                [quote=”Evil-i” post=149617]I’m surprised brake lathes are still a thing. I’ve noticed that shops have been getting rid rid of them over the last 25 years or so, and to find one still in use is a true rarity. I was under the impression that typical modern brake discs and drums aren’t beefy enough to be resurfaced, which touches on the “Smaller, Lighter, Cheaper” topic.[/quote]

                I guess that’s what I am getting at. Are modern rotors meaty enough to be re-surfaced?

                The advantage of thinner lighter modern rotors is that it cuts down on unsprung weight which is a good thing. As Eric says though, nobody really wants a vehicle that is sealed for ‘life’… Life being whatever the manufacturer decides is legally long enough. Like modern ink/toner cartridges, they will expire after so many printouts no matter how much ink is still inside the cartridge.

                Also, can you re-surface rotors that are drilled or grooved?

                in reply to: Ranger RL-8500 Brake Lathe Review #842049
                Andrew DeneyAndrew Deney
                Participant

                  Hey Eric, I am not ‘pushing back’ on the concept of machining rotors, I think it’s a fantastic idea and a fantastic machine that looks like it makes the whole process so easy and convenient. It’s got to be better for the environment also.
                  My issue/concern is with the manufacturers safety specs of the rotors. If they quote minimum thickness and you machine below that, does this then make you liable if something happens with it? I can see it to be very useful to quickly re-skim a rough disk or get rid of slight surface damage due to having run pads down to metal or such but with such little wear tolerance on modern rotors do you have to measure all of your rotors before and after to make sure they are still in spec etc. Or is the manufacturers min wear spec just for none re-skimmed wear? Or have I misunderstood and you only need to take off a few thousandths of an inch at a time so the disk remains in-spec?

                  Also I am well aware of ‘none serviceable’ and ‘sealed for life’ promises that manufacturers make… Yet to find a genuine example that didn’t need some DIY is pretty much impossible. VW Polo – Sealed for life gearbox… Needs oil changing at 40k miles due to sticky gear changes. 2002 Volvo S60 T5 geartronic – Sealed for life gearbox.. LOL. (not sure if you know these examples? – I am UK based)

                  Did you recently watch the episode with the 4wd transfer unit on the Kia Sportage that South main auto fixed? A fine example of factory sealed.

                  in reply to: 200 Dodge Neon Overheating #842001
                  Andrew DeneyAndrew Deney
                  Participant

                    My money would be on the temperature sensor…

                    in reply to: Ranger RL-8500 Brake Lathe Review #841991
                    Andrew DeneyAndrew Deney
                    Participant

                      I am having trouble understanding how much use this machine would be. Take my vehicle for instance. The 288mm front vented discs come with 25mm thickness and according to spec are scrap at 22mm thickness. So this only gives 1.5mm wear per side doesn’t it.

                      Surely after two or three years the brake disk is just junk due to the wear limit tolerance, not the quality of the surface?

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