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Another thought – if this is the rear calipers, I think Mazda pistons have to be screwed back in (they don’t just slide in) so you need to use a tool to do that (the c-clamp won’t work)
looks like you can remove the ratcheting part then unscrew what’s left without getting any debris into the engine
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/performance-closed-please-post-correct-forum-your-model/212809-oil-filler-cap-stripped-2007-sonata.htmlI’ve never seen a ratcheting oil cap – gas, sure, but not oil!
Pictures really help show what you are describing.
Anyway – getting the pistons to go back can be done by using a c-clamp – I usually use my hands, and for the front calipers (which are often 2 piston) I use one of the old brake pads to let me push both back at once – they go back slowly – just keep applying firm pressure. What I also do is put a tube on the bleeder valve and run that into a catch container, then open the bleeder a bit before I start pressing them back. That way the fluid being pushed out from the caliper as you move the piston goes out of the system, rather than back into the line. (you don’t want to open the bleeder and apply pressure to push back a piston without a tube on there or you will make a mess as the brake fluid will squirt out (and it is damaging to paint – so if you do get some on something, clean it off)) – once the piston is pushed back, tighten the bleeder.
when you are done, put in the new pads and reattach the calipers, then bleed the brakes (better would be to replace the brake fluid and flush the system, but if you have done that recently and the fluid is clean/water free, then just bleeding the system is fine)
not a lot of low-cost bidirectional tools out there… the Autel MaxiCOM MK808 has good reviews on Amazon, and is under $500…
Probably true! Honda only calls for it on the plate that the lower roller rides on, then part of the track the lower roller assembly rides on, then just the inside of the corner of the track for the middle roller
great video – sadly, that’s a repair I have had to do on our Odyssey (an 05) already! I had the same experience in terms of there being sufficient slack to remove the roller assembly. One thing that also helps free stuff up is to clean the center track (particularly the curved part going into the van) and lubricate it, as well as the lower track.
The tail lights can be a pain – you are actually pulling out and a little bit away – i have found that using a plastic trim tool to help persuade the light out (pushing outward at the leading edge of the light) helps get the assembly off, too.
For the door, the easiest way to control how far it moves is to turn off the automatic part (on the switch for the two doors on the dash, there is a sliding switch – just slide it to off, and then you can open the door as much or as little as you need) rather than opening the window
Not everyone has the luxury of air tools and an appropriate impact. I’ve only changed the belt twice on our Odyssey – first time using two breaker bars (one with the crank pulley tool, the second with the socket) and the second time with the starter bump method. I totally agree you can make a mess with the starter bump method, if things aren’t braced properly, if you don’t pull things to prevent the engine from starting, etc. (you definitely wouldn’t want to be trying that with the vehicle on a lift!) Next time around (still another 50k miles away) if I can rent one of the heavy sockets, maybe I’ll try that with an electric impact… or just do the starter method. we’ll have to see! hammering away on the crank bolt with an impact (if it doesn’t come right off as it seems to with the new thick sockets) has a pretty good chance at damaging bearings.
For the variety of approaches on youtube, etc. – many of them use a large extension to facilitate filming – you really don’t want that as you are taking up a lot of force that could be being applied to the bolt, twisting the extension (I saw one where they had the extension extending out of the wheel well, and balanced it on a jackstand!)
For the two breaker-bar method (which is also how I tightened the bolt both times) I find you need to brace the bar with the crank pulley tool on the frame (or if it’s a long enough bar, against the ground) then tighten the bolt with the other one.
you are losing over a quart every 1k miles, but there are no drips or anything? I would expect wherever it’s coming out from to be a mess. The usual recommendation is clean things up, then look for where it’s coming from. A compression test and a leakdown test would be a good idea, if there are no obvious leaks. Has your PCV valve been replaced recently? Valve cover gaskets, cam/crank seals, and the oil pan seals are places to look, too.
Awesome to see the videos back!!!
The fixing it forward difficulties you mention are a tough one… dealing with the “where does it end” issue is going to be the same if you give someone a vehicle you pick up and fix, I think. Is there a way you could communicate to whomever is benefiting from the program (either by fixing their car or giving them a repaired car as you suggested in the vid) that they are responsible for the vehicle from that point forward, and maybe only do come-backs for work directly related to the repairs (e.g., you replace a part and it turns up as defective?)
I always go for the factory service manual – it’s going to be the most accurate, and captures anything specific to your particular model year. For VW, I believe the service manual is published by Bentley and you can get them on Amazon, eBay, etc..
we have Michelin Defenders on our honda odyssey and they are pretty good. (rated well in the snow) – however, if you drive in the snow a lot, it’s worth considering picking up a set of snow tires on inexpensive rims for the winter – they will have much better traction in the snow.
I use it in bike tires, where it works great – however, that’s inside a tube. I imagine it would make a mess inside a car tire – if you got a nail in it, it would almost certainly plug the leak, but when you removed it to patch the tire, the tire place is going to have to clean all that stuff up. (similarly, when you replace the tires, it’s going to be a mess – probably way worse than if you just used a can of fix-a-flat when you got something in your tire…)
I would worry about it clogging the schraeder valve and making a mess there with time, too.
I don’t know – the same can be said for many things if not done carefully. If you pull the fuel pump relay, pull the plugs, brace the tools properly, then quickly bump the starter (that’s a pretty key point – you just bump it – don’t hold the key in start like you are trying to start the car) things come right apart. Arguably with less risk of damaging crank bearings, etc. via an impact… I definitely agree that if you don’t brace the tools properly, guess the rotation of the engine wrong, etc. it can get pretty exciting, though!