[kris]

Thanks I will watch it soon. The “new” sensor I got was the wrong one in the right box. Thats why it kicked on at the wrong temp. The old sensor worked when boiled but not in the car weird right? Took back the new sensor for replacement. New one was different color, and when boiled closed when it should. Put it in the car, I put a thermometer inside the radiator with the cap off and ran the car till around 190, low and behold the fans kick on. I guess temping the coolant at the top of the radiator is not that far off after all.

Thanks

[kris]

Thanks I will watch it soon. The “new” sensor I got was the wrong one in the right box. Thats why it kicked on at the wrong temp. The old sensor worked when boiled but not in the car weird right? Took back the new sensor for replacement. New one was different color, and when boiled closed when it should. Put it in the car, I put a thermometer inside the radiator with the cap off and ran the car till around 190, low and behold the fans kick on. I guess temping the coolant at the top of the radiator is not that far off after all.

Thanks

[kris]

Thanks Eric. Took some diging but I found my answer, it in this video. at the end.

[kris]

Thanks Eric. Took some diging but I found my answer, it in this video. at the end.

[kris]

jumping the connectors and the fans come on is the correct behavior. what I am not sure about is that fact that there is 13 volts between the two connector pins for switch/sensor A. here is an edit of the first post:

1. if I jump sensor A with car on both fans come on.
2. If I jump Sensor B with car off passenger side fan comes on
3. So fan timer/control and wiring/relays Good!
4. I put a thermometer inside the radiator with the cap off and ran the car till hot (seems this is not vary accurate) .

4.1 (edit) (had to have been an accident cross of paper clips or something as I could not reproduce. I dont get how it seen it open then the ohms rise as the engine cooled tho.) sensor A closed when it should ~189-190 and as the engine cools the ohms rise from zero.

5. bad connector? I tightened the terminals plugged connector back on to sensor. then back probed with paper clips.
5.1 When papers clips connected fans turn on.
5.2 When as car heats up I get readings from sensor A. Reads ok.
5.3 at correct temp sensor was working and had zero ohms, DMM beeping for continuity.
5.4 Fans do not kick on. I connect the paper clips fan kick on.

Edit: pulled the sensor A and boiled it in salt water, It did not close until around 208 and read .86 ohms. This number is different from the reading i got from the top of the radiator with the cap off. All in all the sensor does close at some point why does the fans not kick on?

Edit: boiled the old sensor, it has broken plastic where the connector goes. its read out were :180F =.73 ohm, 186F=.71 ohm. 204-211.3F=.67ohm. Now the ohms of the paper clip that make the fans kick in… .73 ohms. The connector must not be making full contact with the sensor or something. I’m going to test the car with the old one in it again.

Edit: Installed old sensor, removed connectors from connector plugs, connected connectors to sensor, connected DMM to connectors, started car let heat up with thermometer inside the top of radiator, Temp hit 190-197 nothing happened. Put radiator cap back on loosened bleed bolt, temped coolant there temp was 192-195. SO now the question is why does the sensor work when boiled in water but when installed it does not?

edit: This sensor switch just acts as a ground right? It takes in a ground, then when it gets hot enough it grounds the other wire? So should there be ~13 volts between the two connectors for this plug?

EDIT about voltage: Yes voltage is good, because when sensor “grounds” it lets the current go to the relay ground the fan making them come on.

[kris]

jumping the connectors and the fans come on is the correct behavior. what I am not sure about is that fact that there is 13 volts between the two connector pins for switch/sensor A. here is an edit of the first post:

1. if I jump sensor A with car on both fans come on.
2. If I jump Sensor B with car off passenger side fan comes on
3. So fan timer/control and wiring/relays Good!
4. I put a thermometer inside the radiator with the cap off and ran the car till hot (seems this is not vary accurate) .

4.1 (edit) (had to have been an accident cross of paper clips or something as I could not reproduce. I dont get how it seen it open then the ohms rise as the engine cooled tho.) sensor A closed when it should ~189-190 and as the engine cools the ohms rise from zero.

5. bad connector? I tightened the terminals plugged connector back on to sensor. then back probed with paper clips.
5.1 When papers clips connected fans turn on.
5.2 When as car heats up I get readings from sensor A. Reads ok.
5.3 at correct temp sensor was working and had zero ohms, DMM beeping for continuity.
5.4 Fans do not kick on. I connect the paper clips fan kick on.

Edit: pulled the sensor A and boiled it in salt water, It did not close until around 208 and read .86 ohms. This number is different from the reading i got from the top of the radiator with the cap off. All in all the sensor does close at some point why does the fans not kick on?

Edit: boiled the old sensor, it has broken plastic where the connector goes. its read out were :180F =.73 ohm, 186F=.71 ohm. 204-211.3F=.67ohm. Now the ohms of the paper clip that make the fans kick in… .73 ohms. The connector must not be making full contact with the sensor or something. I’m going to test the car with the old one in it again.

Edit: Installed old sensor, removed connectors from connector plugs, connected connectors to sensor, connected DMM to connectors, started car let heat up with thermometer inside the top of radiator, Temp hit 190-197 nothing happened. Put radiator cap back on loosened bleed bolt, temped coolant there temp was 192-195. SO now the question is why does the sensor work when boiled in water but when installed it does not?

edit: This sensor switch just acts as a ground right? It takes in a ground, then when it gets hot enough it grounds the other wire? So should there be ~13 volts between the two connectors for this plug?

EDIT about voltage: Yes voltage is good, because when sensor “grounds” it lets the current go to the relay ground the fan making them come on.

[Author]

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