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almost got all the info i need, will post about it when i get a chance, for now i am off to start a new thread.
Solved: The battery is less than a year old. I tested it anyway. It passed all the test you showed with voltage drop. I knew it had to do with charging. The alternator should put out around 80 amps I was getting half that. I tested all my wires top side for shorts and high ohms. They all passed. everything was grounded.
The issue was the main ground to the transmission. It is the biggest one of them all and is also how the alternator grounds to the battery, through the engine. altho it did not have high ohms, the last 6″ or or so was badly corroded due to Honda not putting insulation on it not sure why. I pulled it off cleaned it up and put it back on.
amp out of alternator went from 30-40 to 79-80 amps. electricity travels on the outside of the wires not on the inside. with it corroded it reduced the maximum amperage of the wire. like trying to get all 100 gallons a minute of water from a 1″ pipe when you put a 3/8″ pipe outlet on the end of it. you can only get about 50 gallons.
grounds have to be good and have be able to carry just as much amps as the main wire as they complete the plumbing.
Thanks for your time again guys.
I line up the crank sprocket to the mark on the oil pump (which i assume is TDC, but cant confirm as I cant find documentation on it.) and all marks looked dead on. The pointer for the flex plate was pointed at the lower of the two I took a photo of (the T in the Honda supplied pic). Also had a 3/8 drive ext in #1 cylinder and it seemed to be at the top.
Its now all apart and cleaned up from the oil mess. We shall see how this turns out…
Thanks for everything everyone.
I line up the crank sprocket to the mark on the oil pump (which i assume is TDC, but cant confirm as I cant find documentation on it.) and all marks looked dead on. The pointer for the flex plate was pointed at the lower of the two I took a photo of (the T in the Honda supplied pic). Also had a 3/8 drive ext in #1 cylinder and it seemed to be at the top.
Its now all apart and cleaned up from the oil mess. We shall see how this turns out…
Thanks for everything everyone.
I knew I was not crazy, look what I found. I still dont know what mark is white there is no paint on the marks. anyone know if its the 1st or the second mark that is the white TDC?
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/customlowz/TECH%20INFO/fig2.jpg[/IMG]
I knew I was not crazy, look what I found. I still dont know what mark is white there is no paint on the marks. anyone know if its the 1st or the second mark that is the white TDC?
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/customlowz/TECH%20INFO/fig2.jpg[/IMG]
If you look at the black drawing I made in paint, those are the marks I see on the flex plate there is a sideways M stamped on it between the tdc and ignition timing (The M is not the pointer). I then have a photo of the two marks where I thought there should of only have been one for TDC.
The mark at the top of the flex plate “should” be TDC, but for some reason I see two. Have a look at my photo I put up. i’m not sure what to use.
If you look at the black drawing I made in paint, those are the marks I see on the flex plate there is a sideways M stamped on it between the tdc and ignition timing (The M is not the pointer). I then have a photo of the two marks where I thought there should of only have been one for TDC.
The mark at the top of the flex plate “should” be TDC, but for some reason I see two. Have a look at my photo I put up. i’m not sure what to use.
So it was the balance shaft seal. I got the video it was very useful. I got a aisin kit of parts then added the seals. What came in the kit: Aisin water pump, koyo tensioners, mitsubshi belts, timken cam and crank seals, snk balance shaft seal, new honda tensioner springs.
Still need a bit of help tho.
i’m not sure what mark is tdc on my flex plate here is what I think I see *the M should look like a sideways w aka flipped:[IMG]http://s18.postimg.org/l65mq08uh/timing.png[/IMG]
I’m not sure if the line below the triangle is a real timing mark. I want to see it and know it should be white. So it seems to be there and white. can anyone tell me if the triangle is tdc or if there really is a white line below it. cam, oil, and balance shaft timing marksline up.
I know the 3 lines are for ignition timing. Whats up with the sideways M. Is it a mark for anything?
I see a up arrow on the crank gear but no info in the repair manual or the eric the car guy video I bought. IS this also a timing mark?
is this normal: The timing markings on the flywheel move by an 1/2 inch to an inch up or down when i try to turn the crankshaft. it seems the crankshaft does not move, if it does move its less than a full tooth. example: ratchet on crank bolt, press on ratchet gear does not move but marking on flywheel have.
Photo of top timing marks:
[IMG]http://s23.postimg.org/rs2z3ww2j/timing_marks.jpg[/IMG]So it was the balance shaft seal. I got the video it was very useful. I got a aisin kit of parts then added the seals. What came in the kit: Aisin water pump, koyo tensioners, mitsubshi belts, timken cam and crank seals, snk balance shaft seal, new honda tensioner springs.
Still need a bit of help tho.
i’m not sure what mark is tdc on my flex plate here is what I think I see *the M should look like a sideways w aka flipped:[IMG]http://s18.postimg.org/l65mq08uh/timing.png[/IMG]
I’m not sure if the line below the triangle is a real timing mark. I want to see it and know it should be white. So it seems to be there and white. can anyone tell me if the triangle is tdc or if there really is a white line below it. cam, oil, and balance shaft timing marksline up.
I know the 3 lines are for ignition timing. Whats up with the sideways M. Is it a mark for anything?
I see a up arrow on the crank gear but no info in the repair manual or the eric the car guy video I bought. IS this also a timing mark?
is this normal: The timing markings on the flywheel move by an 1/2 inch to an inch up or down when i try to turn the crankshaft. it seems the crankshaft does not move, if it does move its less than a full tooth. example: ratchet on crank bolt, press on ratchet gear does not move but marking on flywheel have.
Photo of top timing marks:
[IMG]http://s23.postimg.org/rs2z3ww2j/timing_marks.jpg[/IMG]Its leaking very bad. Think what it would look like if you took a the probe of a test light and poked 2 holes in the oil pan. Now move this leak to the end of the lower timing cover. it only leaks when running, I cant tell if its coming from behind the timing cover or from in side.
The water pump and t belt was done about 6 months ago. It was dayco parts from advance auto, I prefer gates or OEM.
Note I plan on keeping this car until its dead.
Should I redo them if there is oil on the belt?
What all seals/gaskets/parts are there that can leak?
From what I have gathered there is:
Cranks seal
cam seal
balance shaft seal
some o rings that I have no clue where they are at
I read something about the oil pump could leak like this, not sure.
I just did the valve cover gasket and lower seals not to long ago, It has to come off can it be reused?I am trying to come up with part list and a plan so I can fix it. Current plan is to tear down replace T belt water pump, all seals there, and anything else leaking.
Its leaking very bad. Think what it would look like if you took a the probe of a test light and poked 2 holes in the oil pan. Now move this leak to the end of the lower timing cover. it only leaks when running, I cant tell if its coming from behind the timing cover or from in side.
The water pump and t belt was done about 6 months ago. It was dayco parts from advance auto, I prefer gates or OEM.
Note I plan on keeping this car until its dead.
Should I redo them if there is oil on the belt?
What all seals/gaskets/parts are there that can leak?
From what I have gathered there is:
Cranks seal
cam seal
balance shaft seal
some o rings that I have no clue where they are at
I read something about the oil pump could leak like this, not sure.
I just did the valve cover gasket and lower seals not to long ago, It has to come off can it be reused?I am trying to come up with part list and a plan so I can fix it. Current plan is to tear down replace T belt water pump, all seals there, and anything else leaking.
contact area of pads had mass corrosion cleaned on wire wheel lubed up went in like butter. drag fixed, still plan on replacing due to oil contamination.
contact area of pads had mass corrosion cleaned on wire wheel lubed up went in like butter. drag fixed, still plan on replacing due to oil contamination.