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Many ways to do that. A socket that’s the right size and a mallet may do the trick, or maybe a puller…. blow torch… It’s all depends on the details.
I don’t think that’s a problem for any state inspection as long as the seat belts themselves work. Though I don’t know for sure about TX.
I would recommend removing the bulb in the instrument panel and forgetting about it (just remember to use your seat belt).
It’s likely a bad weight sensor switch. I don’t know anything about how they work on this car, but if you can find them and test them with an ohm meter I bet you’ll find one is busted. You could “fix” the problem by cutting out the sensor from the system. Depending on how the switches work either just cut it, or cut it and connect the two wires together.
I guess if your really wanted you could just replace the busted switch, but that’s just going to fail down the road and will cost more than $0.October 28, 2011 at 11:00 am in reply to: 94 honda accord 2.2L vtec wants to turn of when i asselerate #440967Yeah, could be a lot of things. By “whats to turn off” what do you mean? Stumbling? Is it better or worse under load?
Absolutly start with a scan tool. If that’s a pain for you to scan it you could do a visual inspection first. A sensor could have come loose or conector may be loose, but there is really no reason to replace anything untill you really know which wheel the code is coming from.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
This will help –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9G40e-Ds7dk&feature=relmfu
It easier to watch these few video’s than me going into depth explaining what your possible issues are. Plus it will save my fingers! C8-)
Most misfires under a load are ignition related. I would check the plugs first then start to stress test the coils.
That vid was my first thought when I read the title of this thread. But since you’ve done the tune up I’d say what ETCG said (though with less detail because I don’t really know what I’m doing). It would be good to identify the cylinder which is missing. This is covered in that vids, just pull each plug and see which one doesn’t make things worse. Then you can rent a compression tester form atozone (or buy one for $45 or so, got mine for Sears) and test that cylinder and compare to others (If you know the problem cylinder you really only need to compare it to one other).
Or you can just pull wires one at a time wile it’s missing and see which one doesn’t make a diffrence…
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