Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Does the radiator fan come on? Is it more likely to overheat at higher or lower speeds?
Knowing the little I do I’d guess you have a thermostat that is stuck closed. You can test this by removing the thermostat entirely and driving without it. If the problem goes away buy a new one, if not keep looking for the problem.Thanks guys. I’ll give it another test when I get around to it, but I’m not hopeful. I had some suspicions before I did the test.
Is this something I can live with for a while or is it likely to get worse fast?Thanks guys. I’ll give it another test when I get around to it, but I’m not hopeful. I had some suspicions before I did the test.
Is this something I can live with for a while or is it likely to get worse fast?Well pulling a tie rod in will make for greater (or lesser depending) toe. If you’re toe is off that is a good thing. If your toe is proper and something else is amiss you’ll end up with crazy toe in (or out) and eat up your tires really fast.
With a tape measure and a trusty assistant measure from the front side point the tire hits the ground to the other tire. Then do the same on the back side of the same tires. Hard to explain… lets try that again. Measure between the front two tires a stop on the tire in front of where it touches the ground and then again behind. With some math you can figure out your approximate toe by doing this. I’m a little rusty on my Trig, so I can’t give you the formulas.
But the important thing is to see if you have about the right toe. If you see otherwise, and only if you see otherwise should you think about adjusting the tie rods. The steering wheel is not the thing you should base your adjustments on.Well pulling a tie rod in will make for greater (or lesser depending) toe. If you’re toe is off that is a good thing. If your toe is proper and something else is amiss you’ll end up with crazy toe in (or out) and eat up your tires really fast.
With a tape measure and a trusty assistant measure from the front side point the tire hits the ground to the other tire. Then do the same on the back side of the same tires. Hard to explain… lets try that again. Measure between the front two tires a stop on the tire in front of where it touches the ground and then again behind. With some math you can figure out your approximate toe by doing this. I’m a little rusty on my Trig, so I can’t give you the formulas.
But the important thing is to see if you have about the right toe. If you see otherwise, and only if you see otherwise should you think about adjusting the tie rods. The steering wheel is not the thing you should base your adjustments on.Did you get the car like this, or did you do something that messed things up? If it was the tie rods then you would need to move one it and the other out to line it up.
It is possible to do an kinda okay (not great) alinement job with a tape measure. But that’s just to adjust the toe. Your steering wheel may be off, or the steering box may be off… Something is not right in a big way if you’re that far off.Did you get the car like this, or did you do something that messed things up? If it was the tie rods then you would need to move one it and the other out to line it up.
It is possible to do an kinda okay (not great) alinement job with a tape measure. But that’s just to adjust the toe. Your steering wheel may be off, or the steering box may be off… Something is not right in a big way if you’re that far off.[quote=”college man” post=43194]if your feeling vibrations when stopped.Then I would suggest the
engine is either misfiring or voltage leaks.threw in a couple extra.
check engine light on? does the check engine light work?
[/quote]
Thanks, but I’m quite sure it’s not engine related. It’s hard to explain; but it feels like the engine in running good while it’s doing this, oh and no codes. At a stop it’s quite mild if there at all, it’s really more of an acceleration thing, and more of a hard acceleration thing…. but not too hard… I’m thinking CV, bent axle, propeller shaft, transmission or wheel bearing.[quote=”college man” post=43194]if your feeling vibrations when stopped.Then I would suggest the
engine is either misfiring or voltage leaks.threw in a couple extra.
check engine light on? does the check engine light work?
[/quote]
Thanks, but I’m quite sure it’s not engine related. It’s hard to explain; but it feels like the engine in running good while it’s doing this, oh and no codes. At a stop it’s quite mild if there at all, it’s really more of an acceleration thing, and more of a hard acceleration thing…. but not too hard… I’m thinking CV, bent axle, propeller shaft, transmission or wheel bearing.Spelunkerd, I just used google. If you type any engine and the word interference in you’ll find it. I wish I had a better way of looking it up, but I don’t know of one.
So for the Chrysler, it’s time to see where the compression is going. It may be a major crack in the block, a crack so large that it effects both sides. It could be two bad head gaskets, or damaged heads.
Is there oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil?I have heard good reports from a few people who have made these. The thing is you have to make or buy a really good efficient HHO generator (expensive). And at best you may save 8% on fuel, and some people can’t get any improvements with a specific car.
To do it right you’re looking at $800 plus if you make everything yourself. And then you need to maintain the system, which isn’t free.As to the conservation of energy argument against the HHO; The idea is that you can get more power out of your fuel (less burnt in the cat) and also lean out your trim, which can over come the extra alternator draw. It’s a tricky balance to get right.
All and all it’s not really worth the money and work unless it seems like a fun hobby for you.
I have heard good reports from a few people who have made these. The thing is you have to make or buy a really good efficient HHO generator (expensive). And at best you may save 8% on fuel, and some people can’t get any improvements with a specific car.
To do it right you’re looking at $800 plus if you make everything yourself. And then you need to maintain the system, which isn’t free.As to the conservation of energy argument against the HHO; The idea is that you can get more power out of your fuel (less burnt in the cat) and also lean out your trim, which can over come the extra alternator draw. It’s a tricky balance to get right.
All and all it’s not really worth the money and work unless it seems like a fun hobby for you.
I’m guessing that is has a V-6 so unlikely to be a head gasket or crack as you’re having problems with both heads. If
You could do a leak down test to see where it’s loosing compression. Also with this test you could identify the timing being off by rotating the engine, and seeing if it holds pressers at another point (this will not necessarily work for a double over head cam with off timing, but will of a single).
If I was doing this work I would skip that test and just start by looking at the timing belt and counting teeth.Okay so I looked up the engine. It seems to be a 3.5L V6, non interfecne, singal over head cam, with a timing belt not chain.
If your engine rotates the proper way for this to work it can be a quick and dirty way of getting the bolt off. As said already; be carful of flying tools.
I wouldn’t worry much about damaging the starter. I think the bigger risk is to whatever you rest the breaker bar handle on (power steering pulley?)
Also make sure the car absolutely can’t start. Remove the power to the ignition coil and or remove all the ignition wires. If you were to pull the fuel pump fuse, for example, it could still start for a second on residual pressure.
It would also be a good idea to tie the breaker bar to something so it can’t go flying, maybe duct tape it to your rad.