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When it comes to drilling out the lock… Any pointers or warnings? I have it down to where the core of the cylinder is right there.. Just terrified I’ll go too deep or setoff the airbag trying to remove the steering wheel to get the whole module out.
Both sides to secondary ( A and B) read the same resistance to secondary on both the new and the old. 9kohm…. thats still a decent bit of resistance.
No comprendo!
I mean I replaced the rotor too but thats not going to play a role here.
Spec is from 12.8Kohms to 19.something Kohms at 68 degrees F.
it was 80 degrees.My reading was 9kohm. Replaced only the coil and the car started right up!
I don’t get it!
Get this crap guys:
About a year ago I came out to this car after it sat over the weekend and the battery was completely DEAD (thread is on here someplace). like 2volts at the terminals. bewildered, I went to wally world and bought a new battery. went to work and came home. (car sits 14hours) I could tell the new battery was weak but it started ok…. thinking maybe my 8 year old radio or amp may have failed I pulled those fuses to be safe. Nope, same thing next day. Somebody who knows about cars says its probably a diode in the alternator (after I ripped apart the thing looking for a short!!!) I discovered the current flow ceased when I removed the IG1 fuse in the engine bay (40 amps). so all winter I would have to pop the hood and pull the battery cable to preserve my new battery. Embarrassed as I had to do this at work sometimes in front of subordinates I picked up a new vehicle and left this guy sitting with the battery disconnected.Fast forward to yesterday. Replacing the ignition coil appears to have also solved the battery drain. it was pulling 600mA just sitting there off. Now it pulls 4mA sitting there off.
SO I never thought that could be a thing but evidently the resistance to the secondary coil falling to 9Kohms made the car no longer run but I guess it had a short in there someplace which was also killing the battery, but allowing it to run normally (until 2 days ago) I wish I had taken a photo but the plastic side of the coil did have some discoloration (like it had gotten very hot)
I mean I guess it makes sense now that I think about it but golly I never though that would be it. Why would only the resistance of the coil be what was preventing current flow on a shut down vehicle?
It appears to be no spark. I pulled all four plugs and they were all soaked with gas.
otherwise looked ok.
crank position sensor?
I got a pretty bad valve cover oil leak which soaked the bottom of the distributed and down.
under the distributor cap, the rotor and the cap itself look ok, the gasket kept the crap out.I also pulled the plug out and left it laying on top of the valve cover while I crank the motor I didn’t see any Spark. Then tried the same thing with a screwdriver in the spark plug wire also don’t think there was any spark
[video][/video]
Part 2.
Again please turn on subtitles for a little more info and clarifications.
I hope this is a contribution to the community here.
this be the one.
Cheap, yeah, but a couple sites and also the amazon users rated it pretty highly…. what degree of expertise they have…eh….unknown..
Looks like I got a seller with some integrity, or a really smart mechanic who knows how to fake it.
Had the car 48 hours, driven about 4 hours in that time, seems to be (finally) as advertized!
I’m wondering if they are trying to run out the clock…. its been 2 weeks since the purchase and they still have it in their shop….
Thanks Twiggy,
I honestly was on the fence about if i wanted to keep it and have a mechanic i found take a look and give me the low down vs turn right around and tell them this isn’t acceptable. Ended up turning around and dropping it back at the lot same day.
I’m really hoping its a freak thing and that 3k isn’t worth them ruining their perfect feedback so they either let me out or fix it…. but I do wish I had gotten the codes read so that I had some information BEFORE handing it back…
Allstate covered my at fault accident with 2 other cars, rates didnt rise because I had accident forgiveness, but they did deny my renewal because I had caused a loss. So catch 22 there a little bit. To be fair that was 8 years ago though.
I imagine what state you are in can make a difference as laws vary state to state and some companies may be a little more aggressive in protecting the bottom line, with those laws,than others.
Hope it works out for you. The tv said 97percent rate geico “fast and fair” for claims
By far the easiest to read diaghram I’ve seen!
THANK YOUI pulled the starter relay, going to pull the 7.5amp fuse later (when it’s not bone chilli cold outside).
Curious, it looks like the 40amp ig1 fuse is in series with the main battery fuse.
It’s got to be something in the lower part of diagram.
From what I read im lucky, others have draw of 3 or 4 amps (probably oober bad for batt)
FOUND IT!!!!
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/civic/x99-029e.pdf
Its a known issue with this generation Civic! The wires in harness for C115 rubs on the intake manifold bracket and after time the that frays the wires!
Interestingly enough, the auto parts stores said the tester indicated the batter was in great shape but that the alternator could not be tested due to low battery voltage :huh:
I was terrified either my alternator voltage regulator was going or that I had a short which would have the alternator running at 110% output
potentially causing a fried electronics and ECU or a fire and fried alternator, respectively.NOW: how do I clean these probably frayed wires?? they are soaked in oil… evidently did the valve cover gasket replacement wrong this spring because the problem is as bad as it was before…..
I investigated brake kleen and WD40…. let alone that they both say dont use on plastic… they leave residue and are flammable…. contact cleaner also says its flammable…
spray bottle of soap and water??