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Hi Eric,
first of all thanks for your interest on my post.
There are some imporevement thanks to hondaguy453 since my first post.
1) I misread the obd codes. The errors are not iat and iacv but iat and egr.
2) there wasnt a fuel delivery issue. I just misconnected the spark wires. now car starts fine.I have watched carefully most of your videos. They were very inspiring and I tried to apply the principles you showed as much as I can.
Yes I have lpg and some engine check lights, oil lights etc.. But the car didnt have this shaky engine before I gave it to mechanic. It was speeding up fine. As I told in previous posts my biggest issue now is that when I press the gas pedal the car is shaking/stumbling/hesitating. Unless I increase the speed and rpm very fast its very uncomfortable.
So far I checked egr with applying vacuum with my mouth and engine stalled. Which I think means egr ports are open.
So I would be glad if you can assist me in this issue.
Here how it drives.
Hi,
I sucked the air from egr port as you advised and car has stalled as you can see from the video. But I dont know how to see binding. I don’t know actually where to look for it.
I also removed the egr valve and pushed the pin upwards and it worked well. also when i close the vacuum port the pin binds upwards/it doesnt come down; which I guess proves that egr valve works fine.Hey,
sorry for late reply.
I’m just back from travel and I was struggling with fuel leak problem. There was a leak from injectors and I siliconed them. Seems fine for now)
So back to the real problem 🙂 Which is erratic idle when pressed gas pedal initially.
So what you mean by applying vacuum to egr is; to remove the black pipe and suck air with my mouth from the egr valve? I guess it wont be very healthy) I also saw somewhere that people used to remove a vacuum line from some other part of the car and attach it to egr valve instead of sucking by pump or mouth. Can you help me to do in that way please? Otherwise I am gonna use my lungs:)Yea, by the same time I was able to seal and revive distributor during checkups.
I dont have. Is vacuum gauge sth like this?:
http://www.ziraimarket.com/LS-513-Manometre-Buyuk,PR-4713.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwvo6wBRCG3Zv92ZSLlIYBEiQA5PLVArfu1aMzGl5KrG8UB0ngifedFx2gzKWjMkX8XNF9tY0aAveS8P8HAQAnd how Im gonna connect this?
If I want to suck it myseld should I suck from upper side or below side of EGR valve?
Also I couldnt understand what is binding on diaphragm, sorry:)
Ok Ive found the problem. Wrong spark wire order)
So we are back to first two problems.
Shaking when pressed the gas pedal.
And sometimes high rpm shift from 2 to 3 in D3 and D4.Ive disconnected Map sensor and it didnt start. Ive also disconnected IACV and it didnt start again.
Ok Ill not use them again.
Ill order valve cover gasket kit as you advised.
Actually Im a bit far from first 2 problems. Coz the car used to start back then. Now it doesnt start at all.
And Im getting those two error codes since one year. I still think something else is the problem other than error codes.
As far as I remember sparks were whitish.
Btw I wasnt able to check plugs themselves.
Ill try tomorrow if it starts without map sensor coz its dark now. But what I remember was when car was working, if I disconnect map sensor, the car used to stop.
I appreciate very much your help. Hope I can solve this thing with your help. At least to let it start..Ive also removed fuel rail and cleaned injectors. Tested each of their solenoid on battery and they each clicked. But since I dont have pressurized air I couldnt test nozzles.
Yes I tried according to the video. I couldnt loosen it from filter side but I loosened it from rail side and when key was on it sprayed fuel for 2-3 seconds.
Ive used wd40 and then brake cleaner to harness connections only.
so like u said ive checked the voltage. i connected one side of multimeter to – on battery and the other side to that cable. it was 11.5v. i guess its the cable that provides + current to coil. so ive checked plus side of coil as well, it was 11.4v.i also bought a spark tester and tested the coil. it sparked. then i put back the spark wires and tested each of them. each of them sparked. but the car still doest start.
when i turn the key i hear the fuel pump engaging.
the car isnt staying upside down which stalls and stops most hondas. actually its a bit downside up (front is higher than back). i even leveled up the back of car put some stones under tires to bring front and back to similar level. still it doesnt start.In another incident, Ive sprayed brake cleaner into the air intake and it got fire for few seconds))
And i saw something like oil when i removed spark wires. Do you think head gasket leaking oil or sth? or bad spark plugs??
Here is a video of how it doesnt start))
ohh tnak you very much man. i think i was checking obd2. now i see things clearly.
maybe is it possible egr is making the car shaky? should i buy new one?
i also get 15 code now and car is not starting. i bought new tools and i will try to diagnose tomorrow morning.
i cleaned the map sensor with rust spray and after with carb cleaner.
i know i have lot of questions and problems but thanks for giving your time. i trust you guys more than mechanics here. imagine there are honda repair services here that dont have ecu code reader or that never uses multimeter etc..yes. 10 and 12. which are air intake sensor (i dont have) and iacv (i have brand new).
but now i have another problem. after i recorded that video and cleaned the map sesnor, the car doesnt even start. engine cranks but no start. im in big mess 🙁