Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Drove the car for several short to medium trips over the last 10 days or so with no issues. Today, was a different story. My wife notified me that she was heading out for lunch and upon starting the car, she noticed the CEL and that damn air bag light were on. Thinking about the patterns of the car running good for awhile and then stalling out again, I realized that the car ran best after the battery had been disconnected for a period of time. I drove by her work place to disconnect the neg. cable and, to make sure she could reconnect and tighten securely after work. It was disconnected for 2.5 hours and she drove home (4 miles) with no CEL or air bag light. I’m starting to think that this issue is related to drive cycles. Has anyone heard of such a thing? I don’t have the exact mileage for when the stalling occurred each of the 3 times, after it had been running fine. I’d say the amount of driving/miles were pretty similar those 3 times though. This hunch leads me to believe that I’m dealing with a faulty ECM.
Got the test drive in today with no issues. I drove for and hour locally, stopping the engine and restarting several times. Once I felt comfortable, I started to manipulate the key, back and forth, in and out. I also drove for a while with max A/C, rear defroster, headlights, and radio on. Previously, the car has run succesfully for several trips, only to stall when I start to believe it’s fixed. Therefore I’ll keep my confidence in check for at least a week of driving. On a side note, I successfully changed the timing belt, water pump, adjuster, tensioner, idler pulley, and coolant on our Pilot yesterday. Wasn’t pretty but, it’s back running. I will update shortly, hopefully with good news.
Got it home with no problems. I did not mention that I had trickle charged the battery for most of today. The drive was about 20 minutes and I took it about as easy as I could. I will have to try to make it fail, probably early Sunday morning, when traffic is very light. I will post more after the test drive.
No power at all. Does not chime with key in ignition after it dies, until it gets jumped. Maddening!
Fixed CEL issues (vacuum hose came loose) and car ran fine for approx. 8 trips around town. Yesterday wife was leaving work and car would not start….no clicking, cranking, power at all. I jumped it and it started just fine. We started driving home and I noticed the red air bag light on the right side of dash was on, after about a half mile. The CEL came on next, which is when I pulled into a parking lot. I idled for 2 minutes and then drove around lot trying to get it to die with no luck. I then proceeded to drive to another lot where the car stalled before I could get into a parking spot. The air bag light and CEL light were on and the gauge cluster died. Car would not crank, click, or anything else….no power at all. I Immediately jumped it and it started right up. I then drove it slowly back to the wife s office and left it for the night. Battery and alternator test good. All high current connections under hood look good and i have replaced then engine and transmission ground straps. What should I troubleshoot next? Ignition switch? Main relay? Thanks in advance..
Alternator tested good as well as all applicable fuses. Next, I decided to try removing the under hood fuse/relay block. I wanted to identify the 3 ELD wires and plan my next move. To my surprise, one of the battery cables (nearest to front end) in the fuse block was loose. Not wiggling around loose but, loose enough to cause an issue. I guess I got a little sloppy in the final stages of the engine install. Anyway, this all points to what you guys and Eric stress…..check check check ALL the connections. Those particular connections were out of sight and out of mind but, the wiring diagrams told me they were there…..Lesson learned.
Bad news…Wife just told me the CEL came on on her way home from work……..Back to work I go.
Thanks again for your assistance!
Thanks Tomh. All connections are good, clean, and sound. I did replace the engine & trans. ground straps.
Thank you nightflyr. I did some research on the ELD module and I’m wondering if a failure would absolutely cause a code? The CEL has not been on during this issue.
After a bout with the flu and many hours spent watching ETCG vids, the car is up and running. I broke two electrical connectors and, realized the thermostat should have been replaced prior to installing engine. Engine started right up and threw no codes, which amazed me. Alas, there is a problem. As best as I can tell without a lift, the drivers side axle seal is leaking. Not sure if I damaged the seal or possibly the axle is not fully seated in the diff. There is .112 clearance between inboard shaft housing and case. I watched Eric’s video about changing axles and he mentioned that it should be flush with the case. In hindsight I probably should have put new seals in but, I’d love to not have to take it all apart again. Given that the car runs well, could it be possible that the axle is not fully in? Any insight/advice is greatly appreciated.
Thank you stiv625. I was actually able to leave the car in place and position the engine hoist properly for removal. The engine and trans are mated and I am waiting for some bolts that Honda recommends be replaced. Waiting is not a bad thing as the temp is about 16 degrees F and the garage is unheated. I’ll update later. Thank you.
I am getting ready to attach the trans to the replacement engine and, I have a question. Is there anything I need to do with the torque converter before installing? The manual says to install the converter in the trans, with a new o ring and then mount trans to engine. I have never done this and just need any tips or tricks to make this go smooth. Thanks in advance
Thanks ArmedsouthernEr . I’m not sure crafty describes me for swapping an engine so I just bought 4 vehicle dollies and will carry on.