Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Napa sells impact sets in a newspaper all the time and they are pretty cheap to get in a set, all made by Sunnex. I have a 3/8 and a 3/4 drive deep set, as good as you can get and easy on your pocket.
Napa sells impact sets in a newspaper all the time and they are pretty cheap to get in a set, all made by Sunnex. I have a 3/8 and a 3/4 drive deep set, as good as you can get and easy on your pocket.
If you are looking for inexpensive, you might try http://napaonline.com for the real deals flyer they put out every 3 months. click on the savings tab, select real deals and find page 31.
I bought mine from Matco and it was as much as getting a new car lol
I have bought some stuff from the Napa magazine and its a real value, don’t know about their roll cabs but call the local store and talk to them about what they can do for your tool needs.
If you are looking for inexpensive, you might try http://napaonline.com for the real deals flyer they put out every 3 months. click on the savings tab, select real deals and find page 31.
I bought mine from Matco and it was as much as getting a new car lol
I have bought some stuff from the Napa magazine and its a real value, don’t know about their roll cabs but call the local store and talk to them about what they can do for your tool needs.
The computer might think it has low vac and increase the fuel. Check the hose to the MAP sensor, it might be leaking or have a faulty sensor. Your vacuum is good and steady, that should eliminate a big vac leak or a valve as the problem. No hissing in the brake booster? Just asking because it is an old car and I have a similar model that leaks a little when the brake is pushed.
The computer might think it has low vac and increase the fuel. Check the hose to the MAP sensor, it might be leaking or have a faulty sensor. Your vacuum is good and steady, that should eliminate a big vac leak or a valve as the problem. No hissing in the brake booster? Just asking because it is an old car and I have a similar model that leaks a little when the brake is pushed.
[quote=”sunset” post=64389]Assuming he has hydraulic lifters not solid lifters. If hydraulic and sticking or not pumping up due to varnish you could try this old trick. Run engine till warm not hot, add 1-pint of kerosene to the oil in the crankcase, run engine 5-minutes, DRAIN HOT OIL WELL, change filter, put in fresh oil, run engine until operating temp. and notice any change in vac readings. [/quote]
I believe this is an oval port engine with hydraulic lifters. Only a true muscle car had the solid tappet camshaft such as a Chevelle.I was going to suggest backing off the valves to zero lash to identify the valve causing the misfire and possibly adding some Marvels Mystery Oil to work on the stuck lifter. I typically use 4 oz per quart of oil but have used as much as 35% on occasion.
I have used fuel oil (Diesel) as a solvent with great success and its like using the solvent based engine flush. 20% makes a good cleaning flush but if you mix a little of the detergent flush in with the kerosene, it really cleans the deposits away. I do a simple flush once a year to get rid of deposits that affect the piston rings and cause undue drag on the engine, it usually runs very good afterwards.
I learned about after working on diesels that had fuel dilution problems, the internal parts were very clean and polished from the detergent action of the diesel fuel. A machinist also told me to dribble some diesel down the carburetor and let it idle for a while and that helps free up gummed up valves.
[quote=”sunset” post=64389]Assuming he has hydraulic lifters not solid lifters. If hydraulic and sticking or not pumping up due to varnish you could try this old trick. Run engine till warm not hot, add 1-pint of kerosene to the oil in the crankcase, run engine 5-minutes, DRAIN HOT OIL WELL, change filter, put in fresh oil, run engine until operating temp. and notice any change in vac readings. [/quote]
I believe this is an oval port engine with hydraulic lifters. Only a true muscle car had the solid tappet camshaft such as a Chevelle.I was going to suggest backing off the valves to zero lash to identify the valve causing the misfire and possibly adding some Marvels Mystery Oil to work on the stuck lifter. I typically use 4 oz per quart of oil but have used as much as 35% on occasion.
I have used fuel oil (Diesel) as a solvent with great success and its like using the solvent based engine flush. 20% makes a good cleaning flush but if you mix a little of the detergent flush in with the kerosene, it really cleans the deposits away. I do a simple flush once a year to get rid of deposits that affect the piston rings and cause undue drag on the engine, it usually runs very good afterwards.
I learned about after working on diesels that had fuel dilution problems, the internal parts were very clean and polished from the detergent action of the diesel fuel. A machinist also told me to dribble some diesel down the carburetor and let it idle for a while and that helps free up gummed up valves.
I found a CD on eBay that helped me a lot when it comes to preparing for the exams. It asks a question and you can get an explanation if needed, its awesome software. Just be aware that some people are peddling old military manuals that are crap.
I also like the Delmar study guides, the same publisher as most of my college books from automotive and accounting. The DVD study guide I mentioned before is awesome to understand complex systems but they are expensive.
The tool guy I used to deal with started out selling Smap-On, now he is with Matco because he makes a better commission and benefits. There is a lot to be said about the Snapon name and its mostly hype.
I will buy any tool if its good quality and i get a lot of stuff from OTC from online venders such as ToolTopia because some of their stuff is also sold on the tool trucks.
All my ratchets are 60-80 tooth and I have no complaints about any of them. I like the feel of the ones from Snap-On and I also use Matco. I have a stubby flex with a ball on the end, it kinda looks like a sex toy but it is awesome in tight places.
I saw someone mention Pittsburgh tools, I buy their sockets listed with the ANSI rating and I can say they are decent quality. The first thing I do is throw the ratchet in the trash because its pure friggin garbage and I don’t want to skin up my knuckles when it strips.
Some of you guys mentioned SK, Sears, Matco and a few others. Danaher Tool Company manufactures Matco, Sears, Ingersol Rand, Fluke and a few others I am unaware of, its good business to have several product lines or national venders. If you guys don’t know this: SK was bought out by Ideal (the electrical supplier) a few years ago and I do not know if that affects the quality of their new or replacement tools.
The tool guy I used to deal with started out selling Smap-On, now he is with Matco because he makes a better commission and benefits. There is a lot to be said about the Snapon name and its mostly hype.
I will buy any tool if its good quality and i get a lot of stuff from OTC from online venders such as ToolTopia because some of their stuff is also sold on the tool trucks.
All my ratchets are 60-80 tooth and I have no complaints about any of them. I like the feel of the ones from Snap-On and I also use Matco. I have a stubby flex with a ball on the end, it kinda looks like a sex toy but it is awesome in tight places.
I saw someone mention Pittsburgh tools, I buy their sockets listed with the ANSI rating and I can say they are decent quality. The first thing I do is throw the ratchet in the trash because its pure friggin garbage and I don’t want to skin up my knuckles when it strips.
Some of you guys mentioned SK, Sears, Matco and a few others. Danaher Tool Company manufactures Matco, Sears, Ingersol Rand, Fluke and a few others I am unaware of, its good business to have several product lines or national venders. If you guys don’t know this: SK was bought out by Ideal (the electrical supplier) a few years ago and I do not know if that affects the quality of their new or replacement tools.
My boss had a flowmaster muffler put on his 2010 Silverado and it rumbled a little with a nice sound. I can see doing a simple muffler change and not getting hassled by the cops.
I bought a similar truck from a car dealer and it pisses me off that somebody cut the cats off and straight piped it. Now I am concerned it will fail a safety inspection because it is not 50 state legal. Its a 2 inch single system and it rumbles a little.
My boss had a flowmaster muffler put on his 2010 Silverado and it rumbled a little with a nice sound. I can see doing a simple muffler change and not getting hassled by the cops.
I bought a similar truck from a car dealer and it pisses me off that somebody cut the cats off and straight piped it. Now I am concerned it will fail a safety inspection because it is not 50 state legal. Its a 2 inch single system and it rumbles a little.
If you are not having problems with the injectors, I would not waste your money on replacing them. The detergent in gasoline is far below the amount needed to keep the spray tips clean. You can do an injector service or run about three bottles of a good brand of cleaner through your tank.
I run a cleaner for 2-3 tanks and then put a shot of Marvels Mystery oil in my tank to clean & lubricate the injectors because the ethanol is quite abrasive. I use one of the Lucas fuel treatment bottles as a measure for the MMO and it is good for around 12 gallons.
Amsoil makes a really awesome cleaner additive called PI, and Power Foam to clean the throttle body. check it out on their website for more info or to locate a dealer.
You may also clean your MAF just get the correct cleaner for that. ScannerDan has a good video on that.
If you are not having problems with the injectors, I would not waste your money on replacing them. The detergent in gasoline is far below the amount needed to keep the spray tips clean. You can do an injector service or run about three bottles of a good brand of cleaner through your tank.
I run a cleaner for 2-3 tanks and then put a shot of Marvels Mystery oil in my tank to clean & lubricate the injectors because the ethanol is quite abrasive. I use one of the Lucas fuel treatment bottles as a measure for the MMO and it is good for around 12 gallons.
Amsoil makes a really awesome cleaner additive called PI, and Power Foam to clean the throttle body. check it out on their website for more info or to locate a dealer.
You may also clean your MAF just get the correct cleaner for that. ScannerDan has a good video on that.