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The rear windows work only by their own switches. Not the master switch. I took a look at it and I have battery voltage going to the ddm. But when I used the power probe to get the window down it didn’t go down. Don’t know if I’m doing the test correctly. Five plugs in the ddm. I chose the four pin connector coming from the bottom of the door panel. Hooked up my power probe to the battery. Connected the ground lead to the black wire and the probe to the orange wire. Nothing happened when I flipped the switch. Soooo confused. Any help would be amazing.
The rear windows work only by their own switches. Not the master switch. I took a look at it and I have battery voltage going to the ddm. But when I used the power probe to get the window down it didn’t go down. Don’t know if I’m doing the test correctly. Five plugs in the ddm. I chose the four pin connector coming from the bottom of the door panel. Hooked up my power probe to the battery. Connected the ground lead to the black wire and the probe to the orange wire. Nothing happened when I flipped the switch. Soooo confused. Any help would be amazing.
Very much appreciated. B) …. so none of the controls on the driver side door work as well the passenger side … but the rear windows work. Is the most common culprit the ddm? Or could it also just be the switches? How do I test?
I have dvom and power probe.Very much appreciated. B) …. so none of the controls on the driver side door work as well the passenger side … but the rear windows work. Is the most common culprit the ddm? Or could it also just be the switches? How do I test?
I have dvom and power probe.Use the 1/2″ drive cordless impact 18v lxt makita every day at work. Its a little heavier then I’d like but does the job quick. I also use the Milwaukee m12, cordless 3/8″ drive ratchet. Again gets the job done quick.