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I think I’ve solved the rpm issue (I hope).
I’ve replaced the throttle body gasket with new OEM one and the 4 bolts of the throttle body.
I think the other gasket didn’t seal correctly because it was over torqued.
Now, it’s something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMvg7pEplNk
Which I think it’s normal.
Hi Karl.
No. I’m using an OEM air filter.
Now, as I remember, in fact, the new throttle body was not recalibrated exactly at the moment when it was installed on the engine but later (i.e. 2000-3000 km after install).
So, I’m guessing the negative long fuel trim percentage which appears now is a consequence that the engine ran for a while with a non calibrated throttle body.
Thanks for the reply.
I’ve also replaced the DBW throttle body (with new OEM one) to make sure the original one isn’t toasted. It was recalibrated through Mazda scan tool after replacement.
But the fact that the engine runs rich, isn’t because it doesn’t get sufficient air ? So in that case the ECU starts to subtract fuel, because there is to much unburned gas ?
O2 sensors were fine, ECT as well. No errors. Don’t know about fuel injector leak…though. How can I check that? If it was one leaking I thing the engine would run really bad.
It’s really strange on how the engine started to gain power after I’ve re torqued the throttle body bolts.
Yeah. I’m from Europe, Romania. There are few mechanics/dealers here that can repair Mazdas.
At the moment, they don’t want to admitt that the clutch has a problem. In their view, this behaviour is normal since the clutch is new.
They blame me because i’m releaseing the clutch pedal to damn fast.
I had the car since it was new…….and i know how the original clutch should work.
Yeah. I’m from Europe, Romania. There are few mechanics/dealers here that can repair Mazdas.
At the moment, they don’t want to admitt that the clutch has a problem. In their view, this behaviour is normal since the clutch is new.
They blame me because i’m releaseing the clutch pedal to damn fast.
I had the car since it was new…….and i know how the original clutch should work.
Thanks.
Yeah, I was worried because I thought some WD-40 that I’ve sprayed could have gotten on the clutch disk and pressure plate and i know that’s something you don’t want since it will destroy the clutch.
Some mechanic told me to be patient until the clutch kit breaks in and put some miles on it. In my opinion it should have worked fine since the day it was replaced. I have already put 3000 miles on it and still no improvement. I have to baby it especially on heavy traffic conditions.
Thanks.
Yeah, I was worried because I thought some WD-40 that I’ve sprayed could have gotten on the clutch disk and pressure plate and i know that’s something you don’t want since it will destroy the clutch.
Some mechanic told me to be patient until the clutch kit breaks in and put some miles on it. In my opinion it should have worked fine since the day it was replaced. I have already put 3000 miles on it and still no improvement. I have to baby it especially on heavy traffic conditions.
Hi!
Thanks for answering, i really apreciate.
The clutch is hydraulic. As I remember, the dealer shop resurfaced the flywheel and replaced the slave cylinder and bleed it. However, i am not aware of the type and amount of grease that was used for the part where the release bearing slides nor for the input shaft. This may be the problem…..
PS: If the clutch switch sensor is stuck, can it cause this kind of behaviour ? Jerkiness when shifting ?
Hi!
Thanks for answering, i really apreciate.
The clutch is hydraulic. As I remember, the dealer shop resurfaced the flywheel and replaced the slave cylinder and bleed it. However, i am not aware of the type and amount of grease that was used for the part where the release bearing slides nor for the input shaft. This may be the problem…..
PS: If the clutch switch sensor is stuck, can it cause this kind of behaviour ? Jerkiness when shifting ?
Talked to the dealer today. They said it’s normal since i’ve replaced the throttle body. It will take some time until it will recalibrate…aprox 1000 km. If after this, the symptom will still persist, it might be a problem.
No scanner….unfourtunately.
Thank you.
Talked to the dealer today. They said it’s normal since i’ve replaced the throttle body. It will take some time until it will recalibrate…aprox 1000 km. If after this, the symptom will still persist, it might be a problem.
No scanner….unfourtunately.
Thank you.
Did the manual procedure mentioned above.
Still no change, no effect on engine’s revs.
Any other ideas are welcome.
Thanks very much.
Did the manual procedure mentioned above.
Still no change, no effect on engine’s revs.
Any other ideas are welcome.
Thanks very much.
No. Only the dealer has it.
But what’s the use of MMDS if this is a manual relearn procedure ?
I’m guesing its needed to see the operating temperature and monitor the rpm….
No. Only the dealer has it.
But what’s the use of MMDS if this is a manual relearn procedure ?
I’m guesing its needed to see the operating temperature and monitor the rpm….
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