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That’s viable if it’s cheap like a $10 or $15 part. The O2 sensor for my car, for example, is $50-$75. That’s not something I want to throw money at and hope it solves the issue. 1 part can lead to another and another. Before you know it you’ve put down a lot of money in just a few parts. The thought being don’t start the cycle. Do it right the first time and minimize the loss.
Seems some of you misunderstand. I don’t put any value in the polls or contests. They really don’t matter to me other than the ability to participate in them. It could be “name your favorite car part”game and people would fill the video comment section with hundreds of names of car parts. My point is, it’s the participation that is fun.
Might be hard to believe but some people such as myself don’t want to have anything to do with Facebook or Myspace. Youtube isn’t much better but I’m not going to go into a 5 minute lecture on privacy policies.
How is the engine performing? Could be a leaking injector seal which might present itself as rough running or misfiring. If a check valve is bad some fuel could leak back into the evap (charcoal canister). Recently had an issue on a forum where someone has service done and the mechanic forgot to hook the fuel filler neck back up. He kept smelling gas and sure enough he found the issue the next time he went to the gas station. Gas started pouring out as he was trying to fill it. Kind of funny but serious mistake by the mechanic.
I don’t have a facebook account. Asking for a poll on what to do should be done on this site no? I’m not going to go registered on facebook just to give my opinion. I very much dislike facebook and the data mining. My vote is to keep the FATR as part of ETCG not ETCG1 because it’s all mechanic related stuff. The ETCG1 for the most part is your personal life stuff which I do watch occassionally. FATR belongs on ETCG channel.
Most of your suggestions are exactly what mechanics that work for used car lots do every day. They get paid for that kind of stuff so that’s a job in and of itself. Any mechanic that works at a shop could video every car that comes into their shop that way and have a ton of videos time withstanding.
I think one of your ideas is really neat. Find a local car on craigslist that an owner wants to sell because they can’t afford the repair and see if you can get it fixed for cheap so they can keep the car on the road. Or buy the car, fix it up, and resell it without accumulating cars which would turn your shop into a used car lot. You have the skills to do both legitimately. I remember this show where two guys would pick up old furniture from the curb, repurpose it, and return it without telling the owners. Something like that would be pretty neat.
Umm holy crap I think I got bitched out by Eric in today’s FATR 32. My apologies if my suggestions got you a bit upset. I did go back through all the FATR’s and noticed in the first episode you did in fact say that Mondays are “Fixit Mondays”, Wednesdays are “For Sale Wednesdays”, and Friday’s are of course FATR. You never responded that you said that a long time ago (FATR ep1 to be exact). I suppose that’s my fault for not watching every FATR and I’m sure you don’t like repeating yourself, my fault for sure and my apologies.
With that said, why label the FATR’s consistently with the intro sequence but not Fixit Mondays? You regularly refer to them as “my repair videos” not “Fixit Monday videos” while anything in a video from friday it’s in a “FATR video”. I know it’s trivial gnit picking and semantics but if my suggestions were what made you upset in FATR 32 I just wanted to clarify why I made the suggestions. Even you have to admit you haven’t been sticking to your own formatting goals. You might have been hitting the target dates every monday and friday but you aren’t labeling them as such. I’m on YouTube every Friday watching your video but come Monday I’m not looking for a repair video. I figured you just uploaded them whenever during the week. Just something to think about big guy, I love ya, not trying to upset you. Just trying to help you make ETCG even better.
Depending on your setup the amp should power itself down when the head unit does. If it doesn’t power down then I would suspect either you didn’t wire it to the head unit correctly. It shouldn’t have been staying on without power to the head unit.
Check for voltage on the switch itself when pushed in and out. You could temporarily take the switch out of the loop and connect the positive lead and the load wire coming from it and see if that activates the brake lights.
They do make extended sockets for this kind of thing. Unfortunately they don’t take into account for really long snapped boots. He’ll be using a ratchet extension no doubt for his deep wells but if you can see the plug hex nut and can get a socket on it then try a deep socket. Something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool- … B0014FGW8O
A normal socket is about 2″ long. Extended reach sockets are about 4″ or 5″ deep. Deepest I found was 5″. Maybe that will work but it really depends on how much of the boot is left. How much would you estimate?
Having a boot that long snap really sucks. I’d be stuck too. You have to either find a socket deep enough that will nullify the boot length remaining or cut down the boot length to a point that you can get a socket on it. Not sure if dremel makes a really long extension. Might want to research that and stick a long small cutting blade down there and zip it off.
The best method is going to be one where you have virtually no cleanup and can cut it off clean. That’s all the ideas I have for now.
Quoted From johnzcarz:
Pulling up from the end just makes it constrict, maybe pushing up from the bottom will work better – if you have clearance to do it.Let us know how you make out.Like a chinese finger puzzle oh no! You’re doomed. ;P Where there’s a will there’s a way.
Sorry Dreamer thought you were going for a torque converter issue and I jumped to anything the might wobble.
Sounds like a grounding issue from the amp. Make sure it’s good metal to metal contact where ever the amp is grounded.
If everything seems normal and it’s been checked and rechecked then the issue has to be coming from somewhere else or you missed something in the driveline. Have you had fuel pressure checked? Fuel filter changed? Haven’t heard one mention about fuel pressure. At highway speeds think about what has to work harder. It’s certainly not the suspension that has to work harder. Coolant, engine temp, and injector cycles would raise. If it doesn’t have enough pressure or some part of the fuel system can’t get the injectors to those higher duty cycles then the engine will run rough. That’s my thinking anyway. I could be way off and that’s fine, just giving you something else to think about since it seems everything else has been covered.
Dreamer it’s not going to be a bent crankshaft or transmission (torque converter) because those would be obvious at low speeds and have other really obvious issues.
Eric deserves his own professional camera crew. What he’s able to acheive by filming himself is top notch with exception to confined spaces. He does great with lighting and makes sure for the most part we have a good look at what he’s seeing too. How about getting one of those fiber optic cameras so we can see all those hard to see places? That would be neat.