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Might want to let the car cool down before adding coolant after a spirited drive. Even Eric isn’t immune to getting a face full of coolant but steaming hot coolant is something that can change your life. I had a neighbor who burned his face really bad taking a tractor rad cap off while he was working it in the field. Some mistakes follow you for the rest of your life. Let the car cool first. In -30 weather that shouldn’t take too long.
If you can take video please do. I used to work in a record store and got no end of people humming songs to me because they forgot the lyrics. Let me tell you it was an exercise in futility every time. I’m sure mechanics get a similar earful of owners trying to repeat the sounds their car is making. It’s funny at first but gets old real fast. There are different octaves of ticks, clunks, and squeals that even Mariah Carey would be hard pressed to reproduce. If you can take video or audio of an issue it saves everyone a whooole lot of time.
Plug in the search terms “no heat” into the site search bar up top then go to the FAQ tab.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/search.asp … at&ff=trueYou’ll see Eric hit a common theme over and over. Either flush the core (which you’ve done multiple times), properly burp the system (unknown), check the blend door, or the heater control module isn’t working.
You’ve flushed the core six ways to Sunday repeatedly but not sure how effective your procedure is for burping the air. With multiple flushes the probability of introducing air into the system is higher I suppose. Definitely give the aptly named “How to Bleed a Coolant System” video a look.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjUAs for the blend door (flap) and heater control module you’ll need to get in there and do some testing. Remove the glove box so you can see back there and see what the flap is doing while you manipulate the control module. I’m not a 3rd gen owner so I don’t know what is involved to do that. Most cars are the same in that area so you’re likely to get a lot of good advice from others here on that.
You can remove the HVAC module without removing the dash panel in the 3rd gens (1988-1992). I’ve seen some late 1992’s (that people claim are 1992) look like 4th gens. Just because the car manufacturer date stamped on the car says 1992 doesn’t mean it’s a 1992 if the body style is a 4th gen. It actually means it was produced in 92 and sold as a 93 which is a 4th gen. All the directions for repair would be the same but you do have to remove the dash panel in a 4th gen where as you don’t in a 3rd gen. Thought that would be worth mentioning since 92 was a border year before a major platform revision.
-30C is nothing to scoff at. Your life might literally be on the line without heat in Northern Canada. We need to get that heat working for you. Not gonna have a dead 626 owner on my conscience. No sir. You gotta get in there and see if it is that blend door or hvac module.
Not exactly sure what the symptoms are of air in the heater core or coolant system. Maybe someone can elaborate on that?
It’s a 97 so check for OBDII codes? If a distributor gets wet it can cause a non-start or start then stall. Incorrectly gapped splark plugs. Clogged EGR. Have you watched Eric’s video on Honda idle issues? No idea if it’s relevant to prelude but there are 2 idle valves. One has a bee’s wax pellet of some kind. Worth looking into. Eric has more than 1 video that mentions Honda idle issues. Don’t remember which ones.
If the vibration is coming from the transmission the most common culprit is the torque converter. If it’s the engine then perhaps imbalance as I stated earlier. It’s fairly cheap to get a compression test done or DIY. Compression testers cost about $30-$40 and the tool is yours for life. In a shop maybe $50-$100 depending on where you get the test done. Torque converter failure should throw a code but in my case for example the cylinder compression loss did not give me any code.
Your issue started when you had the transmission serviced. Obviously take it back and have them take a look. They didn’t test drive the vehicle?
Let’s not forget my experience with engine imbalance. Rough running engines (compression loss causing imbalance) can cause vibration and in my case isn’t physically noticeable if you put your hand on the engine. Not that it’s likely in this case but just want to say that in case this comes up in a forum search for someone.
Capacitors pop. I don’t know what a relay will do when it blows. It’s an electromagnet so I imagine it will just die without warning.
Using screeching or squealing when stopped has to do with loose belts. Get the accessory belts tightened!
Eric uses compressed air. In case you don’t have compressed air just use a garden hose w/nozzle and a rag around it so you don’t spray yourself in the face. For those of us who don’t have compressors a garden hose nozzle works just fine. Make sure to drain and store the coolant properly before flushing. Don’t want to kill any pets. That stuff is super poisonous to cats and dogs. Don’t let them lick up a single drop of coolant. Grandma’s usually have pets, you don’t want that on your conscience.
I’m pretty sure that Vacuum has had two u’s in it since the word was invented. Auto correct is not wrong. Other phonetically correct but grammatically incorrect ways to spell vacuum…. Vackyoom, Vackewm, and the more popular version vacume. 🙂
+1 means he 2nd’s the notion (a good suggestion that someone agree’s with).
Eric has a video on overheats. It’s a very very VERY good video, one of my favorites in fact. I keep on going back to that video with my 626 guys, every… single…
That’s all considering if it’s OBD-II which has real time diagnostics built in. A lot of us pre-96 guys have to settle for something like Megasquirt if we want to get real time diagnostics and by that time, you’re tuning more than just running diagnostics. That’s one reason I really love the OBD-II stuff. You guys have a whole new world of real time diagnostics at your fingertips and I think it’s super great. I’m truly jealous of all the OBD2 toys. I would like to see what is out there and available even if I can’t personally use it since I have OBD1. I think it’s interesting stuff. I’m speaking purely about diagnostics only not tuning programs.
600k yeah… if you would have said that I’m sure everyone would have been up in arms over the throttle body lol. TB is a regular maintenance item. I’d still +1 Eric’s suggestion though. If the TB is that bad then the IAC is bound to be gunked up too. It uses the same air supply right? Might want to put that on le’ menu for checking.